I would stop by the local parts store and ask them to test the battery again, you could also be experiencing a common problem with the ground cable. If so, it is under an extended warranty.
What he said.The question is - do you have any remaining problems? Unlike older cars, the Cruze is completely computer controlled. Yes, even the hazards and trunk latch. I would take the opinion of the local parts house people with a large grain of salt. What they say is true of older cars where the trunk and hazards are controlled by hardware switches. But that's not how the Cruze runs.
All this Battery talk and today I'm the proud owner of a brand new 47PS Delco battery replaced under the New Car Warranty with a month to spare. What Warranty would apply with this Battery -12 Months, 18 Months, 30 Months, 48 or 60 Months? Its very hard to find the correct answer for this P.S (Professional Series?) replacementWith new battery, time for a new negative cable from dealer under extended warranty. I had multiple dealers replacing parts that were broke and fine till the negative cable was swapped.
The fact that you think I'm relying solely on the autozone guy's opinion is cute. I've been driving this car for 4 years now and I think I can tell the difference between a dead battery and electrical issues...my battery was dying, a duralast gold, which perfectly explains the check engine light and car not starting; however anyone with half a brain knows a dying battery should not effect things like hazards or my trunk opening, not to mention the car playing opossum when I try and unlock/lock it from my remote.What he said.
Like a woman, if you're desperate and have nowhere else to turn, taking advice from some random guy at autozone can be necessary. But you have plenty more options at your hand that supersede autozone guy who's only real interest is whatever creates the least work for him and earns him the biggest commission.
Why not tell us the brand of this **** expensive battery that failed in a year so that others can learn from your experience.
The trunk latch is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module aka "computer"). The remote is just a command to the computer.however anyone with half a brain knows a dying battery should not effect things like hazards or my trunk opening, not to mention the car playing opossum when I try and unlock/lock it from my remote.
I'd prefer to do a voltage test while the car is running. With the meter between the battery terminal itself and the ground screw, you shouldn't see more than 0.1V. Probably a lot less then that.Check your grounds. If you have access to a multimeter, check the resistance from the top post to where the battery ground cable attaches to the chassis. You should see 0.0-0.1 ohms. If not, check the connections at the battery and chassis.