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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For roughly the past year my 2011 Cruze LTZ (40k miles and driven in FL) has intermittently stopped responding to my car's remote; for usually no more than 3 minutes the car is completely dead and does not respond to my regular remote or the spare.

Yesterday, I was able to unlock the car as normal, but when I tried to start the car the engine would not start and my check engine light initiated. When I pulled the key out my hazard lights shot on, my trunk randomly opened, and my dashboard switched to show my trip mileage instead of MPH like normal.

On the second attempt, the engine knocked two or three times but started. I drove it around my apartment complex and the radio began switching back and forth from FM band to USB flash drive on its own.

As of this morning it still knocks a time or two but does start. Are these symptoms of an electrical shortage or corrosion somewhere? I had the battery replaced about a year ago and as of last month it tested fine. The only repair I've ever had on it was the locking mechanism on the driver's side door; when I would try to lock the car everything locked except that door. It has worked fine since replacing the locking mechanism.

Any advice here would be great. I'd hate to take it to the dealership knowing I'll be charged $100 to be told they don't know what's wrong. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Had the battery swapped out at autozone today and it was still under warranty. The cruze not starting and the check engine light have since stopped but the man who changed my battery said the trunk opening and the hazzards turning itself on, along with the other smaller issues I have mentioned point towards electrical issues. Thanks for the ideas of what it could be-- I'll definitely be looking into them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What he said.

Like a woman, if you're desperate and have nowhere else to turn, taking advice from some random guy at autozone can be necessary. But you have plenty more options at your hand that supersede autozone guy who's only real interest is whatever creates the least work for him and earns him the biggest commission.

Why not tell us the brand of this **** expensive battery that failed in a year so that others can learn from your experience.
The fact that you think I'm relying solely on the autozone guy's opinion is cute. I've been driving this car for 4 years now and I think I can tell the difference between a dead battery and electrical issues...my battery was dying, a duralast gold, which perfectly explains the check engine light and car not starting; however anyone with half a brain knows a dying battery should not effect things like hazards or my trunk opening, not to mention the car playing opossum when I try and unlock/lock it from my remote.

It happened again this morning with the new battery in, by the way (my hazards and trunk going crazy).

The autozone guy was not telling me whatever creates the least work for him but rather simply agreed with my opinion on the issue. It's a chevy the reliability still sucks. Shocker it's having problems 4 years in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
ChevyGuy: No, I do not have anything plugged into the ODBII port.

Thanks again for the help everyone. What obermd said regarding the #14311: Negative Battery Cable makes sense as I had been suspecting there was a short or something along those lines for some time now. I will bring this up with the dealership my next trip in and hopefully can put these issues to rest.
 
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