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Took my car to the dealership to fix because it wouldn't start. They said it was hydrolocked. Anyways for some reason they replaced the ac compressor, the starter, the turbo, and some coolant line. They had it for a week. I got it back, then drove about 600 miles in it. I went to drive it today and it had a weak start so I drove it around for a little incase it was the battery (the dealership said it was almost dead when I took it there) well I just went to start it again and it won't start again. It won't crank over or anything. The battery is at 10 volts but it doesn't even try to start. I don't even know where to start. Very upset about it. It's a 2013 LTZ
 

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There is a very good chance you damaged your battery when you hydrolocked your car. Replace the battery.
 

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It hydrolocked from an internal coolant leak not water damage. And even after driving it for a week, would the battery not be good anymore? The check engine light came on and it said to check the power steering.
 

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The power steering issue can also be a sign of low voltage. The car has already shown you low voltage (10 v). Batteries are a very high failure point on this car.
 

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How old is the battery? If it's the factory one, it's time to replace it. 10 Volts? It's dead, Jim. 11.9V at rest is considered completely discharged.

Now, there is one possibility - the battery ground line is a problem in these cars. You could have a bad cable. But my money is on a worn-out battery.
 

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Positive battery clamp is 50 mils larger than the negative one, how can this go on for three years without anyone catching this, caught this on day one with my Cruze.

Not the only problem, both positive and negative battery clamps are crimped to bare copper wire, corrosion sets in for very poor connectivity. This can drop an extra 2 volts, computers cannot operate properly with this low voltage.


How anyone can charge outrageous fees without repairing the real problem is beyond me, but met hundreds if not thousands that had this same problem. Could try small claims court, but does help to have some knowledge. How about paying outrageous fees for a new AT when the actual problem is a dirty connector between the computer and the AT?

Sound like I just met another one, nice to meet you.

Guys at Delco were going nuts when there was a Delco trying to meet new CAFE requirements, talk about trying to put 10 pounds of crap in a one pound package, how about reducing this to a half a pound package? Thinner plates, less space between them, literally hundreds of connections inside of the battery. Self discharge really became a major problem.

Not really solving age old problems, just creating new ones. Yet another problem is switchmode alternators that generate high voltage spikes. Without a could battery and good conductivity, those spikes can cook the super delicate electronics used in these things. More problems.
 

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Did your EPS warning go off as well?
 

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simple check for bad ground cable is to jump start with the jumper cables ON the car's battery terminals If it starts then both the Pos and Neg cables are good. Possible weak or NFG battey.
If no start then move the ground jumper cable to a good solid ground If it starts then the ground cable or ground connection to the battery is bad. Clean the connection (should clean both pos and neg) if still no start (jumpers on battery terminals) replace the cable.
The engine itself should have a ground strap somewhere as well this could also be bad as well.

On almost all of the equipment I work on at work I have put an extra ground strap from frame to engine and another (total of 2) from the battery to the engine.

Also if a battery shows good voltage it doesn't mean the battery is good -- it may have a dead short in it that will only show up on a load test -- which coincidently is the same as starting the car.

Later
Alan
 
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