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"Curb rashed!" My attempt at a first time repair. Suggestions?

2241 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  TwinsFan0492
Ok, so unfortunately I am posting this in regard to a soon-to-be attempt at a repair of some minor curb rash on my new Cruze :( As the picture shows, I obviously barely kissed the curb. The damage is very minimal and hard to spot, take into consideration the pic was taken in the dark with the flash lol. This being my first new car bought, I told myself going into it that I would take full responsibility to keep this car as pristine as possible and when set backs do occur, I would take the time to attempt to learn a thing or two about maintaining and repairing a vehicle. Although I am fairly knowledgable with the basics, I have never attempted a "repair" like this. I'd like to get some feedback from you guys on my plan of attack, i've kinda combined a number of things i've read online on the topic. I feel confident with the final result because the damage is so minimal. I'm listing my plan below:

Tools:
-Dremel tool w/ attached sanders/buffers (medium grain)
-220/320 grain sandpaper with wood block for initial buffer
-Alcohol wipes
-Rustoleum Wheel Clear Coat
-Other paint color?

I intend on using the mid grain sandpaper first to buffer out the coarseness of the rash, then hit the dremel to smooth it out real nice. Starting with the mid paper and working up until its flush with the area around it, I only intend on buffering that ONE particular spot in order to look as inconspicuous as possible (I will also try to buffer along the grain that is on the wheel.. A question I have is after I break through the clear coat (I have the 2LT wheels btw) will the color on the wheel be the same as before it was buffered? It is streaked white now which I assume is the clear coat. In other words, will I be able to get away without repainting and only have to buffer, clean, and clear coat 2 or 3 thin layers? I intend on being very cautious and particular with this project so no need to worry about me covering up with paint tape and other covering before painting. Is this as simple of a fix as I hope? lol Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I'd like to start this sometime this weekend. I can send after photo when i'm finished. Thanks!

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· Epic Beard Man
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5,353 Posts
Is the face polished/clearcoated and then the pockets painted bright silver? I haven't really looked at a 2LT wheel close before.

I would personally start with like 400 or 600 grit, and WET. Remember, you can always go coarser, but you can't go fine again as easily. It's hard to tell how how deep the scratches are, but you might be surprised what a little hand wet sanding with 400 could do.

I'm not sure how thick the clear coat is on it, so I'm not sure when you'd break through. The painted parts are probably 3 step, primer/basecoat/clearcoat, but the polished parts would just be polish then clear.

If you don't break through the clear, just hit it with some wet 1200 or so, then do some hand polishing.

I had one of my Excursion wheels (polished/clearcoated) that had the clearcoat stripped from getting it stuck in sand (long story). I took the wheel off, hand polished it, prepped with alcohol, then sprayed a generic clear over top, not the wheel clear coat. In that case, it dried to a nice finish, but not the same degree of shine as the originals. The gloss clear coat didn't look high gloss. Those wheels are stored in the garage now and no longer on the truck, so I haven't tried improving the finish.
 

· Registered
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply! Hopefully I can get away with just buffing it out like you said and give it a nice polish and some tlc. Do you have any compounds or polish you recommend? I plan on prepping, sanding, cleaning area well and then going with meguiars scratch x 2.0. Think it's safe to do a wheel cleaner after that? Btw yes you are correct about the polished alloy. The rash ONLY affects this area which for me is hopefully best case scenario. Say the clear coat on the polished part is compromised, would anyone suggest being able to lightly gloss that area a few times. As long as its close I'm more concerned about the protection than the matching gloss. Thanks!
 
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