[Robby]

I'll try to say this correctly.......the fused circuits should only be powering the relays..... the switched section......this way they do not experience the load from the lamps.
One leg of the relay should have full, uninterrupted 12v supply, fused......the leg that is switched by the circuit from the from the fusebox goes to the lamp.
Most likely one of the gang will put up a diagrahm.

Rob

 

[ChevyGuy]

Will they give you the old fuse box such that you can post photos of what burned out? Because something isn't adding up.

You're saying the power for the HID is coming from the battery via a relay. As long as the relay coil has some kind of spike suppression so the coil doesn't spark back into the BCM, that's all fine. On the LEDs, how big was the fuse you added the fuse to? I wouldn't "add" a 50 Amp fuse to a slot that only had a 10 Amp in it. The wiring leading to the fuse might not be heavy enough.

 

[Manny_NotTheStig]

I agree that it doesn't add up, but they fixed it while I was at work and the part was not saved. I don't know if the relay has the suppression you speak off.
This is the relay I used
HID Conversion Kit Wire | HID Relay Kit | HID H7 Relay Harness Wiring
As for the fuses, both are 15 amp so no issues there.

 

[ChevyGuy]

So the only thing drawing from the fusebox is the current for the relay. Nope. That won't do it.

One caution - rather than connect the black wire to the battery, I'd connect it to the frame point where all the other wires connect. If you connect direct to the battery, it may cause a faulty battery current reading.