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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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Yup, I'd say your original battery is probably ready to be replaced. Welcome to the club! At least yours didn't drop a cell out of nowhere, on your drive into work...on a 50 mph road...in the fog, haha.
 

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2014 Cruze Diesel
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Thanks for the advice, but delete isn't an option I'll consider at this point.

I had updates due on my phone and several apps including Greitio. After the update and force stopped Torque, I was able to connect and remain no problem. I ran both DEF heater tests & they passed.
My battery is the original and while it cranks and starts it ain't what it used to be. At idle it's below 12.5V. I'm wondering if the lower voltage is causing an issue. Test and results to follow..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I started with the countdown down to 35 miles till 4 MPH so it was just parked in the garage.

I too had a great deal of difficulty trying to operate with ODBlink MX and Gretio running at the same time.

What threw me off was that when I started I had only used a generic Bluetooth adapter and regular Torque. I've used that exclusively for years. Biscan was suggested and when I loaded the app from Play Store (android) I had Torque open and clicked to add it on and it went in seamlessly.

With Biscan I determined, as best I could figure, Nox 2 was bad. It was suggested that I get Gretio and that I might be further able to diagnose what was wrong but that OBDLink would be a better interface.

I ordered the new code reader and Nox 2 sensor, eventually swapped the sensor out, and then downloaded Gretio. I'd read that Gretio would act funny if Torque was running so I didn't open that but I didn't realize that Gretio and OBDLink would not intersect like Biscan did with Torque. Having that expectation I spent a few hours trying to run them both together and could never get them both to remain open. One or the other would disconnect. Eventually I got frustrated and uninstalled Torque and Biscan (I don't know if I'll need to rebuy that) and got any other obd readers out of my Bluetooth list. OBDLink app and Gretio ran separately for me but the OBDLink code reader is the interface to connect to the car.

I went back to another tread where Snipsey remarked that, if there weren't any other problems, that the DEF quality test on Gretio would clear the warning. Said have it outside with hood open and be prepared for it to run quite a while. I don't remember exactly , I think he said as long as 90 minutes.

Mine ran for about 20 minutes and when the RPMs came down the warning was cleared. The countdown is gone (for now) and I am back on the road. If his didn't work I was firmly committed to not take it to the dealers service department again. I was definitely going Burnzy's route and I probably still will eventually.
 

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Just to chime in here, I think the DEF tank always reads 100% until it hits 36%, then it starts showing the level. I remember a few years back I tried reading my tank level and it always showed 100% but randomly dropped down then back up. I suspect the reason they do that is because of how long it last and the random check is just to check the level, and it probably stays at 100% so that the DIC warning doesn't come up until it's actually getting close.

My DEF usage is probably 20k miles per 5 gallons. It's very minimal.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks for the DEF level info~ I've been watching my for about 2K miles and it's 100% except when I'm making a turn and it dips to 66 or 33%.

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Just to chime in here, I think the DEF tank always reads 100% until it hits 36%, then it starts showing the level. I remember a few years back I tried reading my tank level and it always showed 100% but randomly dropped down then back up. I suspect the reason they do that is because of how long it last and the random check is just to check the level, and it probably stays at 100% so that the DIC warning doesn't come up until it's actually getting close.

My DEF usage is probably 20k miles per 5 gallons. It's very minimal.
eggsactly

99% of the time the def level on DIC read OK between oil changes, was rare to get an actual countdown unless i really made an effort to run the def tank down...usually topped it up erry oil change
 

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Did some math. Resistance of DEF heater must be between 1.61 and 3.70 ohms according to the P21DD and P214F specifications.
I got the p21dd again, after having it replaced 2 years ago. I believe I'm on the right connector, it's 9 ohms. Time to replace?

Looking at these wiring harness connectors, they appear to be snapped down on the plastic cover somehow. Not sure how to remove them.

edit Ok they just slide off.

Neat video showing replacement of tank

 

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I got the p21dd again, after having it replaced 2 years ago. I believe I'm on the right connector, it's 9 ohms. Time to replace?

Looking at these wiring harness connectors, they appear to be snapped down on the plastic cover somehow. Not sure how to remove them.

edit Ok they just slide off.

Neat video showing replacement of tank

Did you replacing it yourself? What is your mileage at? There's extended coverage for the reservoir replacement.
 

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Did you replacing it yourself? What is your mileage at? There's extended coverage for the reservoir replacement.
Yes, I replaced it myself. I'm at 135,000 or so, I'm out of the special coverage. This is now the second time I've had to replace the heater, the first time was under warranty.

And to followup my first post about the resistance, I checked the new heater and it was at 3 Ohms vs 9 Ohms on the failed unit.

Also, I found a bunch of glitter (larger kind) in my DEF fluid tank sitting on the bottom. I remember the last bottle of DEF I bought at Wal Mart didn't have a seal on the bottle. I wonder if someone contaminated it... Either way I had to use a turkey baster to suck out all the pieces.
 
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