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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I changed it out when I first got the car back in 2015 at 13,500 miles. Car now has 46k and the fuel OLM is down to 30%. Yes I know I have a ways to go but since my last UOA shows high moisture, I figure just change it out and go forward. Didn't want to deal with draining it either. Not sure if I got a bad batch of diesel this last tank. It has regened now twice in just under 400 miles. Seems every time I crank the car the STM goes up a point. Just driving 25 miles on open 4 lane to the gym it goes up 4 points. Never did that before so I'm thinking a bad batch of diesel, or at least not a good one.

Well, not sure who the genius is that designed this filter and mount but they need to be taken out side and smacked around. I didn't over tighten the filter when I installed it the last time and now I can't get it off. The entire housing pops out of the mount on the side of the tank. What a stupid design.

I tired putting a strap wrench on the housing and holding it that way and turning the cap off but it wouldn't budge. So it looks the a trip to the dealer.
 

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Did you use a torque wrench?
 

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Did you use a torque wrench?
Do you know the spec for torque? I am at 7 or 8% on Fuel filter and about 38.6k miles, prolly change at 40k or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did you use a torque wrench?
No, but I used just a finger on my half inch drive ratchet once it stopped turning to put just enough force on it to snug it. Nothing major at all. I actually thought I didn't tighten it enough but since it didn't leak when I started it and drove a little I figured it was good. It is only plastic and the mount is the same so I didn't think I put that much torque on it.
 

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Do you know the spec for torque? I am at 7 or 8% on Fuel filter and about 38.6k miles, prolly change at 40k or so.
As I recall it's cast into the housing. The reason why I asked is that it's some ridiculously small value. One of the few times I've used my Snap-On ATECH2FR100B in the newton/metres mode.
 

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As I recall it's cast into the housing. The reason why I asked is that it's some ridiculously small value. One of the few times I've used my Snap-On ATECH2FR100B in the newton/metres mode.
I watched a YouTube on changing the fuel filter and it is cast onto the filter housing, will just torque to spec when changing it
 

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No, but I used just a finger on my half inch drive ratchet once it stopped turning to put just enough force on it to snug it. Nothing major at all. I actually thought I didn't tighten it enough but since it didn't leak when I started it and drove a little I figured it was good. It is only plastic and the mount is the same so I didn't think I put that much torque on it.
Besides the Cruze TD my 6.0L PS has both primary and secondary fuel filters setup similarly and I've never torqued them either and never a leak. It not the casting and plastic cap that provides the sealing, it is the o-ring on the cap that provides the seal. Like BlueTopaz states, just snug it up. Personally I use a little light grease on the o-rings as it seems to help a little in the removal process the next time you change filters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update to my fuel filter dilemma. The dealer charged me $24 to change it out using my AC Delco fuel filter. I'm happy with that. They even let me go and watch standing under my car. It was nice of them to let me do that.
 

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Just did mine for the first time, thought I was going to break it. And that was the factory that tightened it the previous time.
 

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When needed to change my fuel filter the first time, my independent mechanic refused (after trying a couple of ties) cuz it was too tight and he was afraid to brake the housing. Had to take it to a dealer. Soon will be doing myself and really need a good way to loosen it in case dealer has over tighten it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When needed to change my fuel filter the first time, my independent mechanic refused (after trying a couple of ties) cuz it was too tight and he was afraid to brake the housing. Had to take it to a dealer. Soon will be doing myself and really need a good way to loosen it in case dealer has over tighten it.
Can't really say. I changed it out the first time myself and I know I didn't over tighten it. I didn't use a torque wrench but once the housing seated I just put a light snug force on the ratchet, nothing major. Started up checked for leaks and all is well.

The mounting bracket is a very poor design if you ask me. Good thing it isn't changed often because I can see that mount cracking over time.
 

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Can't really say. I changed it out the first time myself and I know I didn't over tighten it. I didn't use a torque wrench but once the housing seated I just put a light snug force on the ratchet, nothing major. Started up checked for leaks and all is well.

The mounting bracket is a very poor design if you ask me. Good thing it isn't changed often because I can see that mount cracking over time.
Looks like my filter will get to over 40k before I change it, having no issues so plan to run it awhile longer. I would prefer the housing not be plastic.
 
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I've had a similar experience when I changed the fuel filter last year, which very well could have been the same one from the factory. I had to take off the entire housing and have a friend pin it to the ground while I cranked on it with a wrench. Just an overall bad design from GM. I miss the days of doing the fuel filter on a Duramax.
 

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Changed my fuel filter today with my neighbor, took about 20 min, had a big six point socket and a big breaker over bar, was really pretty easy. I was at 40,379 miles and I was at 2%. No water in fuel either. Took maybe 10 times cycling fuel pump to fill filter. Good for another 40k miles.
 
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Mine is due soon. Unfortunately during each of the free dealer oil changes for mine the goons reset the fuel filter indicator for some reason. So I have to guesstimate when mine is due. I have put on about 26,000 miles sine the first filter was changed. Going to change it out around 35,000 miles.

Sounds like the issue people are concerned with is twisting the mount right off the body if the cap is too tight?
 

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Just under 43k on my car and this morning I got the change FF screen on the DIC. I'll do it myself. It sounded pretty easy based on what I've read previously. But after reading these posts, I wonder how many wrenches I am going to throw at the wall.
 

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Just under 43k on my car and this morning I got the change FF screen on the DIC. I'll do it myself. It sounded pretty easy based on what I've read previously. But after reading these posts, I wonder how many wrenches I am going to throw at the wall.
I was concerned about doing this change, it is quite easy or at least mine was. 1 7/16 six point socket, nice long bar and it came right off, good luck
 

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I never had the proper size wrench, so I've been using vice grips. Filter housing popped out of the mount on my first change. On my 2nd change, it was a fight to keep it in place so I could remove the cap.

Speaking of torquing plastic assemblies together, I just threaded it back until the ends met. No torque measurement required. It's not a difficult item, just a poor design. :D
 

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Unfortunately during each of the free dealer oil changes for mine the goons reset the fuel filter indicator for some reason. (Quote)

They did the same thing to me. After I complained, they told me that they would install a new fuel filter when I came in for my next oil change.
 

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My car reads 0% on the fuel filter life. Does the car do anything like shut down or get into limp mode if not changed within a certain number of miles? I have it ordered but won't change til next week.
 
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