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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So while looking at the site on Memorial Day, I saw they now sell no cut resistors to prevent hyper flash and BCM codes.

not a electronics guy myself, are these needed or better to get? I know back in 2015 when I got their stuff during diag, we found the BCM had low volt messages due to them.
 

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I'm not running LED turn signal bulbs as I didn't want to mess with the resistors to prevent hyperflash, but all the other bulbs in back (Tail, Brake, Reverse) are DD LEDs and they don't cause any issues.
 

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Yes they’re needed. I have them on the rear and switchbacks on the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not running LED turn signal bulbs as I didn't want to mess with the resistors to prevent hyperflash, but all the other bulbs in back (Tail, Brake, Reverse) are DD LEDs and they don't cause any issues.
All I want LED are those crazy powerful back up lights, and interior lights. Couldn’t care less about turn signals or brake lights. I find them in halogen to be good at what they do. Do you think they make a huge difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes they’re needed. I have them on the rear and switchbacks on the front.
How is the install? It says they get very hot to keep away from stuff, is it really a risk?
 

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All I want LED are those crazy powerful back up lights, and interior lights. Couldn’t care less about turn signals or brake lights. I find them in halogen to be good at what they do. Do you think they make a huge difference?
I only changed the tail/brake/reverse light bulbs because of the lights being blacked out. You could see the stock lights, especially at night, but in day time they left something to be desired with the dark lenses. With the LEDs that's not even remotely an issue - they're brighter than the lights were with the stock untinted lenses, especially in direct sunlight, since it no longer just reflects around the housing, drowning out the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I only changed the tail/brake/reverse light bulbs because of the lights being blacked out. You could see the stock lights, especially at night, but in day time they left something to be desired with the dark lenses. With the LEDs that's not even remotely an issue - they're brighter than the lights were with the stock untinted lenses, especially in direct sunlight, since it no longer just reflects around the housing, drowning out the lights.
Yah definitely LED will be superior even with stock lenses. If they are plug and play no splicing then I’d be all for it. I’m not a fan of hyper flash but I’m also not wanting to cut up wires
 

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How is the install? It says they get very hot to keep away from stuff, is it really a risk?
Never had an issue and I used zip ties. That are plastic.. and live in south Texas.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Never had an issue and I used zip ties. That are plastic.. and live in south Texas.
So how do they work? They plug in between the bulb and stock socket or is there a bunch of wire work to do?
 

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So how do they work? They plug in between the bulb and stock socket or is there a bunch of wire work to do?
the ones I have are in the line between bulb and socket yes.
 

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All I want LED are those crazy powerful back up lights, and interior lights. Couldn’t care less about turn signals or brake lights. I find them in halogen to be good at what they do. Do you think they make a huge difference?
You don’t need resistors for reverse lights.
 

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the ones I have are in the line between bulb and socket yes.
Just a fair warning I’ve had customers come to me with burned connector housings by installing these.

The tldr is they are probably good for intermittent lamps but don’t use them for brake, brake as turn, etc….
 

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Just a fair warning I’ve had customers come to me with burned connector housings by installing these.

The tldr is they are probably good for intermittent lamps but don’t use them for brake, brake as turn, etc….
They are switchbacks and are lit up white and switch to yellow flashing when blinker is on. Work perfectly two years counting.

Syneticusa 7443 Error Free Canbus Ready Dual Color Switchback LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs DRL Parking Lamp No Hyper Flash All in One https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H53JTK...abc_D2ZS6E9ENH660DCHPXMS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 

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They are switchbacks and are lit up white and switch to yellow flashing when blinker is on. Work perfectly two years counting.

Syneticusa 7443 Error Free Canbus Ready Dual Color Switchback LED Turn Signal Light Bulbs DRL Parking Lamp No Hyper Flash All in One https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H53JTK...abc_D2ZS6E9ENH660DCHPXMS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are intermittent. The way the switchback gets power 'should not' make the resistor hot. Having said that its 100% dependent on how its wired and who knows how the random china engineer made them.

The real problem comes from the brake lamps as turn being used.

If the resistors are not mounted the heat travels through the wires. It then melts the connector at the chasis harness to lamp harness. So not only do the lamps stop working but now you have a $1000 harness repair. Would you like to see the invoice?
 

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I had to mount like...eight of DD's in my brother's Mustang, because the flasher module didn't play nice with the DD switchbacks up front. All three of the bulbs in each rear taillight is a turn signal, but the two outers are brake lights. Ended up finding a good spot to mount them (with mechanics wire), but I also put a heat barrier on the backside of the interior panels that cover them just as an extra measure.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well it seems since I only need reverse lights I’ll skip the resistor.
 

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Yeah, you won't need them.
 
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