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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody change their front disk pads yet? when you did; did you have the rotors turned, buy new ones or just leave them status quo? I have been looking thru my wheels at my rotors and with 40 K on my car, contemplating pad replacement and what to do with the rotors: they look a little ? not really worn with deep grooves in them but they have seen better days(look a little less than smooth). I should really pull a wheel and look at the remaining pad life. Just haven't had time. I don't know about the real quality of the rotors to after market.

Ideas
 

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Here is an idea ......................

X and Nbrehm wote a thread on this very subject try doing research on that topic there ..
 
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Patman,

I had my brakes checked a couple of weeks ago because I felt like they were dragging on the replacement warning layer. Turns out I just had some dust on the pads. At 62,000 miles my brake pads still have roughly half their original thickness left. This is for front and rear.

As for your question about turning the rotors I would turn them when you replace the pads. Don't grind them unless you have been having brake pulsing before you replace the pads.
 

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Well, according to the paperwork that came with the car, the used car dealer found a shimmy so they resurfaced the rotors and replaced the pads before putting it on the lot. With only 11K miles. A fluke or maybe the way the first owner drove it?
 

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Well, according to the paperwork that came with the car, the used car dealer found a shimmy so they resurfaced the rotors and replaced the pads before putting it on the lot. With only 11K miles. A fluke or maybe the way the first owner drove it?
Emergency braking during the first 500 or so miles can cause this.
 

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No link their Bri? Mighty unlike New Years spirit help from you, Mr Helpful?

Sup Eddy did ya find that link yet ? good give it to him !
 

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Replaced pads/rotor around 85k.
Pads had half life left, but bad stress fractures and one even had a chip of the friction mat. missing...
Reason I replaced them was I got tired of feeling like I'm going across a rumble strip when braking from 55+ to a stop.
Drilled/slotted w/semi's right now, I love them.
 

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Next time you get your tires rotated ask the shop to measure the thickness of the rotors, usually they will do that for free. Also take a look at the back sides, I've seen the front look great while the back sides were shot. Not sure why that happens but I've seen it a lot. Most likely you do not need new pads or rotors at 40K, I have 38K on mine now and they still look new. When you do have to do it I don't recommend turning the rotors at all. Every time I've done that I wind up with a wobble or vibration somewhere shortly down the road. Once they are turned they are too thin and warp easily. Rotors are cheap! Save yourself some trouble and replace them.
 

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As long as you are replacing the pads with the same friction material, and there is no evidence of material transfer (looks like a negative) on the rotors, you can continue to use them without any machining.
The new pads will conform to the slight waviness over a few hundred miles.......counter to long held beliefs on this one but I am essentially quoting the manual.
So, if the inner and outer surfaces are in good order, and still measure in spec, then all you really have to do is take a course file and knock the rust ridge off at the outer edge.

New rotors, meaning those currently on the car or those you buy to replace them are very close to minimum thickness when new. Thats why they often loose parellel shortly after machining....they are too thin to hold dimension when heated.

So, you can re-use the originals if they meet the criteria above.....including staying with the OE pad material, or you can just replace them.

If replacing, I would lean towards the steel, high end stuff such as that made by Posi-Centric as opposed to the inexpensive cast iron that is out there.....very poor QC...even those from GM.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As I said I am looking at the rotor surface on the front of my Eco and I am really not worried about the pads rubbing the rotor surface. I have always considered or thought of the difficulty level of replacing front brakes and rotors to be about the difficulty level of an oil change IMO. I found that OReily and KOI(Kentucky Ohio Indiana) Autoparts can turn rotors in @ 1 hour for $10 ea. I have never turned rotors or drums instead I just replace the rotors since they are just as easy to replace with new ones instead of reusing the old ones and places that turn them were not common in my area until now. so....When I do this, I will probably take them to OReily and have them turned.
 

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Sup Eddy did ya find that link yet ? good give it to him !
I've used the 'Lougle' custom Search box before here and it seems to perform quite well. As a former moderator I would always tell people to use the search box for questions that were asked over and over, sometimes providing the links as well. I was disliked by many!
 

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GMPP front brake kit .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did you break the GMPP brake kit? Sorry pet peeve of mine, cant stand when people use the incorrect brake.


Me too I want to edit their posting and change the spell to brake instead of break. I know what they intend to say so.... I am not an English teacher just a computer programmer. Probably makes me worse!!!
 

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+1 for what robby said.
Centric's are awesome rotors.
Have had them on my civic for 50k with some hawk hps pads, and no warpage even though I have heated them up throughly plenty of times to the point of smelling the pads burning.
Hawk hps are great pads as well, no fade at all.
the hotter they get, the harder they grab.
 

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Patman,

I had my brakes checked a couple of weeks ago because I felt like they were dragging on the replacement warning layer. Turns out I just had some dust on the pads. At 62,000 miles my brake pads still have roughly half their original thickness left. This is for front and rear.

As for your question about turning the rotors I would turn them when you replace the pads. Don't grind them unless you have been having brake pulsing before you replace the pads.
I bought new pads about a month ago with plans of changing them before winter really set in.
I have 67,000 miles on my car but when I removed the front pad I also noticed it still had over half thickness remaining plus the rotor showed absolutely no signs of wear. Needless to say, the new pads are still in the box waiting for spring before I change them out.
 

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Me too I want to edit their posting and change the spell to brake instead of break. I know what they intend to say so.... I am not an English teacher just a computer programmer. Probably makes me worse!!!
Talk about a bad spell of wheather. :)
 

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I'm glad this thread came up. I just went in for my New York State yearly inspection which expires at the end of this month. I have 96,000 miles on my car and I'm still on the original factory brakes. My local service shop pull my wheels and stated that my brakes were fine. I have 50% pad left up front and about 60 percent rear brake shoe left in the back. That's three years and 96,000 miles so far on the original factory brakes. I should also note that I am an Eco 6m and use my gears a lot more than I use my brakes. My commute is a hundred fifty miles a day round trip of which 90% is highway.
 
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