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Back Story
I installed Eibach drop springs for Christmas (2013). I never really thought much about how it changed the alignment in the car. It still turned fine, tracked straight, etc. I knew I had introduced some negative camber too.

But the real tire killer is excessive toe! When I brought my car in for an oil change, the dealer checked the alignment. My front specs were wonky, with 1.5 degrees of negative camber, and 2 degrees of toe-out. The dealer offered to fix this for $100.

But all you can adjust is toe! How much to fix the toe? The dealer quoted $80. Needless to say, I didn't pay for the fix. The real surprise was when I started calling alignment shops. Nobody would discount an alignment even though all they had to fix is the toe!

I've owned a couple of toys. I had a track prepared Miata and a 2010 Camaro SS. I never minded paying $80 to align the rear camber, rear caster, rear toe, front toe, and front camber. There is a lot of work involved! But $80 for 5 minutes of work just seemed like robbery.

I used the string method that was very thoroughly documented in multiple Youtube videos. If you have lowered your Cruze on drop springs, then this will get you pretty dang close to zero toe. If you put in coilovers, you probably need to adjust camber as well. Might as well go to a shop.

You need to ensure the steering wheel is straight as possible.

Using 2 jackstands, tie a string between the 2. Try to get the string as close as possible to center line on your wheels.

Adjust the string back and forth on your car until the distance from either end of the rear wheel is exactly the same.

This is where we see that the front of my Cruze has a decent amount of toe-out. Notice the top pic (rear of front tire) is furthur away from the string than the bottom picture (front of front tire)

Because my car is lowered 2" and I don't have a lift, etc. I removed the wheel, starting on the driver side. Note the arrow points to the Jam nut we have to loosen so we can make our adjustments.

The Jam nut is a hefty 24mm. The steering rod is 15mm. Using both tools in tandem, loosen the jam nut, then adjust the steering rod. In my case, since I had toe-out, I needed to lengthen the steering rod. I backed it out exactly 1 full turn, and then tightened the jam nut. Repeat this procedure on the opposite side. Because my car tracks straight, I lengthened the passenger side steering rod by exactly 1 full turn.

Throw your wheels back on, take a quick spin around the block, and then come back and re-measure the toe to see if you are close. In my case, 1 full turn on each side brought my toe pretty dang close to zero!

And there you have it. You just saved yourself some decent cash. Take your SO out to dinner with the money you saved ;)
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