[carbon02]

Great Video-

But shouldn't the pump stop when it completely pulls vacuum on the booster? Your pump seemed to run for an very long time.

I wrote this before I finished your video. You did have a leak!

Key is to watch the video all the way to the end before commenting!

Thanks for the post.

 

[carbon02]

Butt_Dragger-

A few questions for you. My car has never had the switch recall done, I've always tested the vacuum pump like what you've done in the video.

Did you ever install the switch? Do you think trying just a switch from an ebay dealer would be the first start vs. buying the entire hose? How brittle and difficult is it to carefully pull out the factory switch? I have the recall procedure.

I can't think of an easy way to determine the switch vs. the pump. I'm looking for a place I would see voltage, without going down to the pump connector.

Did you just pull the wheel? No wheel liner removal, or did you do that also? Your camera moved a round a little down there..

Thanks for the pointers..

 

[carbon02]

Thanks for the reply. I purchased the switch as NOS on Ebay and replaced myself.

I did find that you can test the pump by buying an ATC fuse holder at Walmart. Use this with a 5 amp fuse to jump across the terminals in the switch connector. With the key in the on position this should run the pump if the pump is good. This is how I isolated the pump from the switch.

I'm not a mechanic, and I'm not responsible if someone tries to test their electrical pump this way and burns something up.

Your video gave me a lot of info as I was strategizing this repair. Thank you for posting.

Yes I have serious lack of trust with dealers for stuff I can do myself, even if it costs me $10-$20 for parts. They simply have to work to fast and cut corners to make any decent living via the flat rate system.