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DIY Oil Change Checklist

26404 Views 21 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  carbon02
I have done all of my own oil changes on the Gen 1 Cruze. It's super easy on the gen 1 and only takes me about 15 minutes. I don't even lift the car. I have an oil drain container that fits perfectly underneath. The oil change place I used in the past wants $69 for the Cruze because it requires synthetic oil. The dealership wants to keep my car all day, which is unbelievable.

Keep your receipts. Keep a log of oil changes with the dates and mileage. There is one in the back of the owners manual.

This is my check list I use to actually do the oil change. I print this out and take it with me to the car so that I don't forget anything. This is my personal list for my Gen 1 Cruze.
- Note mileage, pre-service oil level on dipstick, and oil monitor %.
- Loosen oil fill cap and pull dipstick up an inch.
- Loosen oil filter until the o-ring is visible.
- Remove drain plug and drain oil.
- Replace filter and gasket.
- Torque filter to 25 NM or 18.5 ft lb.
- Torque drain plug to 14 NM or 10 ft lb.
- Fill engine with 4.25 quarts of oil.
- Push dipstick back in.
- Install and tighten oil fill cap.

Also, read through the owners manual. There are other items you are supposed to do at every oil change. Here is the checklist I use:


- Lubricate hood and door hinges and lock cylinders.
- Lubricate hood latch assembly, secondary latch, spring anchor and release pawl.
- Lubricate weather strips.
- Check engine air filter.
- Check brake fluid and coolant levels.
- Inspect trans drain and fill plugs.
- Inspect engine and trans for leaks.
- Check tire pressures, spare and inspect valves and caps.
- Inspect wheels and lug nuts.
- Inspect joints, struts, linkage, shafts and seals.
- Inspect lights, wiper blades, battery terminals, glass.
- Inspect brake pads, drums, rotors, plugs, booster, calipers and brake lines.
- Inspect park brake cable and system.
- Spray suspension joints with silicone spray (recommended by @NickD )
- Starter switch check on page 10-29 in owners manual (2014).
- Ignition transmission lock check on page 10-30.
- Park brake check on page 10-30.
- Auto trans shift lock control check on page 10-29.
- Restraint system check on page 3-15.
- Accelerator pedal check on page 11-4.
- Check sunroof track and seal. page 2-24.
- Safety system check. page 3-15.

It only takes a few minutes to do all of these other items. Instructions are included for most of them in the OM. I do some of these when I rotate the tires, which I do about every 7500 miles.

I use fluids and lubricants recommended in the Owners Manual.
- Oil - Dexos1 5W-30.
- Coolant - 50/50 mixture of water and Dex-Cool.
- Door hinges, Lock cylinders - Superlube (GM part number 12346241)
- Hood latch - Lubriplate (GM 89021668)
- Weatherstrip - I have been using Jet Lube dielectric grease. I bought a 1 lb can on Amazon.
- Sunroof tracks - I have been using Jet Lube white lithium grease with PTFE. Also a 1 lb can from Amazon

I also recently bought some Krytox GPL105 because I read on other forums that it is the same as the GM recommended weatherstrip conditioner (GM 3634770). I haven't tried it yet.
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Does anybody know the difference between UPF64R and UPF64RF Durapack version?
On the GEN 1 filters the "F" in the part number stood for a package of filters. I think the Durapack is like a shrinkwrapped package of like 12 filters. Meant to be sold and used in a shop environment.

I've purchased both from Rockauto for the GEN1. It seems like it's the same actual filter, but rockauto breaks the packages apart and will sell one durapack filter vs. the full package of 12.

The 6 durapack part numbers I got from Rockauto were filters in individually sealed baggies from ACDelco. The non "F" version actually came in boxes.

Not sure about the GEN 2 filters though.
 
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