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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Today is a day I shouldn't have woke up. I woke up to a backed up septic line. A company should be here for that tomorrow.

Later on today I got in my 2014 Cruze diesel with just under 79k on it to go to work tonight. I haven't driven the car alot but my girlfriend has me turned it's been doing the countdown to reduced power I've dealt with before. Last time it was for the ad def heater recall. When that occured I bought a cheap scanner off Amazon to find out what the codes were and it would also allow me to clear them-up until a point.

Well today it's the same deal. Clearing doesn't work. The car also died on me after startup but I figure that might have something to do with trying to clear codes with the engine running since it started fine after and I made it to work. The codes are the following-
P242D Exhaust gas temp sensor circuit high Bank 1.
P2428
P2047
P20BD

There were also some messages mentioning Sensor 3. After watching the video I posted below can someone tell me which of those sensors is number 3?


I'm hoping this is just some form of failed sensor that is easy and relatively easy to get to to replace but I've popped it in on the search and haven't found that exact code to narrow it down. Can someone help me out here? The car is Trifecta tuned if that amounts to anything.

It's infuriating that every issue with these cars has been with the exhaust system. The guy I bought it from had one recall done that I think was the block heater or some wire running to the engine related to emissions. The heating element failure happened to me about a year ago. And now here we are with more likely emissions related issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I watched this video-

If it is one of these sensors, is there a way to know which one is 'Sensor 3? And is it possible all of the other codes are just related to one failed sensor? The full listing my scan tool gives is Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit High Bank 1, Sensor 3.
 

· Reverend Red Bull
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I did this thread way back in the day when we were still figuring out what/where all these sensors were: Diesel Emissions Sensor Number and Location

I don't have a pic in there for EGT #3, but it is one of the easiest to identify. It is under the car, near the DEF injector, which is just behind the oil drain plug. It's the only sensor on the exhaust in the mid section of the car. It's the sensor shown around the 0:26-0:28 mark in the video, but is easier to access from underneath than reaching through the engine bay.
 

· Reverend Red Bull
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Based on the combination of the 4 codes you have, I'd visually inspect the wiring in the area of the DEF injector and EGT #3. It seems like you could have wiring damage or perhaps you ran over something that physically impacted the injector and sensor, especially since 3 of the 4 codes are open circuit codes on components that are adjacent to one another. The EGT high could be a false reading due to the circuit problem, or a result of EGT #3 reading 0 or at its minimum threshold while EGT #1 and #2 are reading accurately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the reply Rev. Is this something that could be damaged from occasionally scraping the undercarriage of the car? The transition from my driveway to the road has a high point but Ive always assumed it was the skidplate that was scraping under the car. Other than that I cant think of hitting an animal or anything else where something like that could have happened. Ill take a look under the car now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Based on the combination of the 4 codes you have, I'd visually inspect the wiring in the area of the DEF injector and EGT #3. It seems like you could have wiring damage or perhaps you ran over something that physically impacted the injector and sensor, especially since 3 of the 4 codes are open circuit codes on components that are adjacent to one another. The EGT high could be a false reading due to the circuit problem, or a result of EGT #3 reading 0 or at its minimum threshold while EGT #1 and #2 are reading accurately.
Well you nailed it. Both the wire to the number 3 EGT sensor and another wire that looks like it runs into the electric power steering pump are severed. I have no idea how in the hell these wires got broke unless through some freak accident some road debris went under the car and got caught up under there on the interstate. I have a #3 EGT sensor on the way. Any idea what the other wire is for? It looks thicker so Im assuming its for the ad def injector? Is it possible to splice these in the event I need the car until I can find another more permanent solution?



 

· Reverend Red Bull
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I'm having a hard time tracing the second wire from the photo, and without getting under the hood of mine to explore. My guess based on your codes, though, is that it's either the power or control wire for your DEF injector. If you can strip back the broken ends and crimp on a heat shrink butt connector in the right size, I don't see any reason it couldn't be considered a permanent repair that would last a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Over at a buddy's house who has ramps. I've got the EGT 3 sensor and that shouldn't be too much of a pain to replace. However the other broken wire seems to be broken right at the connector and feeds into the ad def pump. Anyone know what part I need to be looking for to get a replacement if I can't manage a splice? I've looked on ID Parts and they apparently have the entire wiring harness including what looks like a fluid line for the pump. I don't need all of that. It literally is one just connector and if I have to buy a 200$ wiring harness for one thing I'm going postal.

Here's what I think is the related part from ID-
 

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Over at a buddy's house who has ramps. I've got the EGT 3 sensor and that shouldn't be too much of a pain to replace. However the other broken wire seems to be broken right at the connector and feeds into the ad def pump. Anyone know what part I need to be looking for to get a replacement if I can't manage a splice? I've looked on ID Parts and they apparently have the entire wiring harness including what looks like a fluid line for the pump. I don't need all of that. It literally is one just connector and if I have to buy a 200$ wiring harness for one thing I'm going postal.

Here's what I think is the related part from ID-
Yeah GM doesn’t sell connectors. You replace the entire harness.

I reccomend googling “How to Crimp terminals”. And then just chop off both connectors and make your own.

My favorite is a style known as “DT” connectors. But stuff like weatherpack is perfectly acceptable as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah GM doesn’t sell connectors. You replace the entire harness.

I reccomend googling “How to Crimp terminals”. And then just chop off both connectors and make your own.

My favorite is a style known as “DT” connectors. But stuff like weatherpack is perfectly acceptable as well.
293456


Im looking into the connectors you linked now, thanks. Me and a buddy got the new EGT 3 sensor in, spliced and shrunk wrapped the other ad def connector wire- fired the car up aaaaannnnnnnnnddddd still with the codes. Question- are auto parts stores code readers more effective at erasing codes? The goal is to keep the car out of limp mode until I can try and get a proper connector like Snipesy linked- if thats even the issue. I have 2 remaining days off before I fly out to visit my dad for 11 days and ideally Id like to have the car able to drive for my gf while Im there since the AC went out in hers. So any effective code clearing service that atleast resets the countdown on limp mode would be immensely helpful considering my timeline.
 

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View attachment 293456

Im looking into the connectors you linked now, thanks. Me and a buddy got the new EGT 3 sensor in, spliced and shrunk wrapped the other ad def connector wire- fired the car up aaaaannnnnnnnnddddd still with the codes. Question- are auto parts stores code readers more effective at erasing codes? The goal is to keep the car out of limp mode until I can try and get a proper connector like Snipesy linked- if thats even the issue. I have 2 remaining days off before I fly out to visit my dad for 11 days and ideally Id like to have the car able to drive for my gf while Im there since the AC went out in hers. So any effective code clearing service that atleast resets the countdown on limp mode would be immensely helpful considering my timeline.



The “Countdown” exists outside of DTCs. Clearing DTCs does nothing to help this nor does the dealer tool have an easy ‘off’ button. There are a lot of service procedures we list here Emissions Supplemental Repair Guide
But none are simple ‘off’ they are just test cycles the vehicle does which may or may not clear the countdown.

As for the DTCs themselves, clearing them with your generic parts store scanner does the exact same as clearing them in GM’s GDS2 diagnostic software. Exactly the same. Same ‘CAN’ message.
 

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Well .... GM does sell some connectors (at least ACDelco does). They are just hard to find and they may not sell all of them. But yeah, for that DEF fluid injector it's going to be the whole thing.
Most connectors will have a part number and a part number for the terminals buuut.
Rarely are those in GM’s parts catalog.
In addition the part numbers rarely correspond to any real world equivalent. So you have to reverse engineer what series the connector is (ie Molex MX150)

AND THEN you need to buy the appropriate crimper tool. Which for some connectors is literally thousands. Or risk using a different crimper.

The cost of doing all of this quickly goes well over the cost of replacing the entire harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll try and get a picture of the exact style of connector to see if it's a common one worth ordering. I'd really like to avoid having to buy an entire wiring harness not only because of the cost but the absolute nightmare of having to connect everything with no source video or diagram. Can someone point me to something close though in the event it comes to that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I have a flight later today and have had zero opportunity to mess with the car since I last posted. Right now I'm still trying to determine which harness I should order for the car eventhough I've been up since 4pm EST yesterday.

2014-2015 Chevrolet Cruze Harness 23299689 | GMPartsDirect.com

Does this look like the proper wiring assembly I need? Edit- let me clarify- I can't tell if the harness I linked is towards the back of the car where the ad def tank is or towards the front. If its near the tank, then its certainly not the one I need. IDParts has another wiring harness that is 200$ but Im pretty sure that includes the fluid line that runs from the ad def tank. Im certain that part is fine- its just a sensor that goes from the back of the engine that plugs into another sensor directly on top of the ad def pump itself. I'll try and take some pictures or figure this out myself but man researching parts listings for a non domestic engine sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just got under the car and got some better pictures of the wire and the connector to see if it's one you guys think might be common I could pick up or atleast identify the particular sensor that I am needing to replace.
293576
293577


The red sleeving is from us trying to resleeve the original wire- which was black. But it plugs directly into the ad def injector as shown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I am now on the aforementioned vacation and haven't been around the car in 7 or more days. I won't be able to mess with the car until Thursday at the earliest when I get back. I have two main questions now.

1. Is it possible I could use some non specific connector to replace the severed one like this one on Ebay?

2. Since I have been gone I've had my gf driving the car and resetting codes to reset the countdown. Do I have to worry about the filter clogging doing this? I am under the impression Ad def is solely for emissions and isn't needed to keep the filter clear- the car uses fuel to burn that off. Am I wrong in that regard? Obviously I want the car repaired and not spewing NO. But until I can do that it would be nice to not have a car in limp mode and not have to worry about a clogged DPF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So I'm back from my trip. But while I was out there my gf texts me that the drivers side window just fell down into the door shell. So now I need a regulator as well. Great.

After going to a local dealers parts department where the guy at the counter was an absolute asshat, he prints out a few exploded views of the car and finally beings out the connector I might need. They want 91$ for it. But it gives me a parts number to go by and I order what I think I need and I received it today.

I get under the car and I notice that the fluid line itself- or whatever the line that is wrapped in foiled heat sheathing that I assumed would just be a rubber fluid line also has wires in it. And one of them appears severed. And it's right where it goes into the plastic body- so no chance of splicing unless I want to break the plastic casing and see where it broke at within. So now I definitely need the 200$ harness. But it doesn't look separable meaning now not only do I have to buy the harness for the part I need, I'll have to run it wherever and connect everything on the entire harness.

It will be a freezing cold day in Hell before I ever buy a GM product again.
 

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Over at a buddy's house who has ramps. I've got the EGT 3 sensor and that shouldn't be too much of a pain to replace. However the other broken wire seems to be broken right at the connector and feeds into the ad def pump. Anyone know what part I need to be looking for to get a replacement if I can't manage a splice? I've looked on ID Parts and they apparently have the entire wiring harness including what looks like a fluid line for the pump. I don't need all of that. It literally is one just connector and if I have to buy a 200$ wiring harness for one thing I'm going postal.

Here's what I think is the related part from ID-
thats how they make money

like on our dump trucks there are 3 different def lines and all three have different connectors on them

the vehicles are vending machines for parts....engines have 6 different fuel injector lines 🤣....at least with mack, one part number fits all cylinders
 
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