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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have put about 6800 miles on the car. Got it March 31 and left the next day and drove from KC to Louisville and back. I got 44.2 mpg calculated on the way back. Fuel added and what the DIC said used were within .1 gallons and indicated mpg was within 1mpg. Close enough for me. This level of accuracy continued for 6-8 tanks until one trip DIC was showing 45 or so and calculated was 38. Fuel put in tank was .6-.7 gallons above what DIC said was used. This has continued since then.

Today was 44.5 showing and 38.6 calculated. Car seems weaker and surges when under load and accelerating.

I'm still over 40 lifetime, but if DIC was accurate, lifetime would be over 43mpg.

I'm drive the car very easy and rarely go over 2000 rpm as I try to save gas as much as possible. I think I may pull the battery cable and see if the adaptives will reset and accuracy and mileage returns. I'd think I'd get better mpg now that it has 6800 miles on it, but it seems to slowly be going down.

Any input on this? Car is a serious dog off of the line even in first gear. Much worse than when it was new. I'm still happy with the car, but the mileage in the 30s for a trip that is 100% highway isn't what I'm looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Negative on rocking. Like driving a 2 stroke. If you let the clutch out slowly and then try to go across traffic, you will get killed. I have had to clutch it to get the rpm up to actually accelerate to not get hit. It was adequate when new, but slow as **** now.

I have extensive aftermarket, racing, and automotive technology background. Anyone telling me how to drive will get kicked in the nutz. :)

I can't explain your gas mileage but your car should rock in 1st, 2nd and 3rd!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mine has stalled multiple times. Weird to give it gas at lower rpm, figure out you aren't going an faster and look down at the tach on 0. They have something goofy in the tune on these. I'm starting to think an aftermarket tune may be the key, but shouldn't have to mess with that. I'm sure the dealer will say everything is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I checked alldata. The only TSB showing was for the 1.8l and low power. There may not be a TSB out yet for a revised calibration. If there is one, I need to try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dealer didn't find anything like I figured. It has been 100+ here for weeks. Car is a dog. There is a thread in the engine forum that talks about GM saying it really retards timing with 87 octane. I filled with 91 this time and will see if it helps any.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah sorry. I traded in a cammed, headered, full bolt on 2005 Mustang GT. My toy Mustang had a 12:1 compression 514 inch motor with 375hp nitrous kit. The Cruze to that car was a moped to the Starship Enterprise. I didn't get this car for the torque.

I realize it needs to be wound up, but I shouldn't have to drive around with the clutch halfway in and think I'm driving a 2 stroke 125cc dirtbike. If you take off in first and floor it, any car should accelerate. Mine at times will barely accelerate in first. When it does that, you can clutch it and put the gas on the floor and it literally takes seconds to rev up to 4000 rpm.

I filled up with 91 octane, which seemed to help in the rediculous heat we are having and welded in a Magnaflow muffler. It seems to be better now. Time will tell.

You're complaining about a lack of power and how slow the car is yet you claim you rarely rev the motor passed 2000 rpm? This isn't a big block that makes gobs of off idle torque, you've got to rev the motor up into its usable power band. Your motor is plenty capable of producing enough power to roll smoke off the tires all through 1st gear, you shouldn't have to worry about moving out into traffic...

I'm sure the hot summer weather has made the car feel a little slower than it did in early spring but you still need to wind the motor out if you expect the car to move.
 
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