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2015 Cruze 2.0 tdi
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Two years ago, I started a thread concerning my 2015 2.0 diesel and how it wouldn't start. It was suggested that I remove the EGR Valve and clean it, as that's a common cause of the engine rough idling at first, then not being able to start, at all. I did as suggested, and everything went perfectly. $15 dollar fix really saved my a$$.

Fast forward to yesterday, and the exact same thing happened, but no sweat, as I figured that's what the issue was.

However, this time around, I was able to remove the bottom torx bolt, but the top torx bolt got stripped, as (apparently) the bit wasn't fully seated when I tried to remove it. (I started this project in low light, right after the sun set, so that's where I messed up)

My question: just how am I supposed to remove that bolt now? The easy(?) answer would appear to just use a bolt/screw extractor, however there simply isn't enough clearance between the engine and the firewall, to get my cordless drill behind it. Would using a Dremel-type tool to cut a slot and then using a large slot screwdriver work?

Suggestions?

(thanks in advance!)
 

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Would using a Dremel-type tool to cut a slot and then using a large slot screwdriver work?

Not a bad idea IF you have the room. I know I have short stubby slot screwdrivers. My concern would be if the bolt is too tight.

I'd probably try a bolt extractor first like above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A 12 point socket chapped on or get a nut/bolt removal socket
Unfortunately, the bolt in question is a rounded torx (non-hex) bolt, so that wouldn't work.


Would using a Dremel-type tool to cut a slot and then using a large slot screwdriver work?

Not a bad idea IF you have the room. I know I have short stubby slot screwdrivers. My concern would be if the bolt is too tight.

I'd probably try a bolt extractor first like above.
After trying a cheapo and quality brand EZ-Out, I tried that as a last resort. Unfortunately, even after removing two 10mm bolts holding the brake line(?) bracket in place, there isn't a enough wiggle room to move the metal line out of the way. It's so close, that even if managed to get the cutoff wheel close enough to the bolt head to make a slot, I'm afraid I'd cut into the brake(?) line.

I might be able to get a single, metal cutting hacksaw blade in there, just enough to cut a slot and then try the stubby screwdriver. Anything longer simply won't have enough clearance, I'm afraid. That is, IF it would even break it free. Of course, I don't think I'd be able to use any other option, if that failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now, THOSE might work. Too bad that's not available locally.

Ordered. Thanks! Will update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

· Reverend Red Bull
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Received that torx bolt extractor set, and it didn't work either. I ordered a new EGR from Rockauto, and it'll be here Monday or Tuesday.

My only other option, now that I don't have to worry about damaging the old one, is to use thy dremel to cut/grind the casting around the stripped bolt.

So aggravating!
I had to resort to that method for a stripped Torx screw when replacing my A/C expansion valve last summer. Had to recharge my Dremel battery 3 times and went through 3 cutoff wheels and 2 grinding stones before I finally got it out..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, good news and terrible news. No extractors worked, so I tried grinding the bolt head off and was hoping just pull the EGR Valve off, over the bolt stud. I ended up just taking a cold chisel and cutting off the remnant of the bolt head that way. I had already decided on buying a new valve, so trashing the old one in the process wasn't a big deal. So, my original $10 (wire brush set + 2 cans of carb cleaner) turned into about a $300 fix and way too many days that it should have taken.

New EGR on just fine. Unfortunately, when I finally got the old one off, I saw coolant leaking from somewhere below where the EGR Valve mounts. Got the new one on just fine, but that leak is pretty significant. I was afraid that in the process of removing the old one, I might have cut, etc a hole in one is the hoses that runs behind the engine.

Took it to the dealer earlier this afternoon, and they got it up on the rack. The tech said it's "leaking coolant everywhere" and thinks it may be from the head. Unfortunately, they can't really be certain without at least removing the top half of the engine. More unfortunate, is that their diesel guy is working, but currently taking chemo treatments, so he may get it taken apart and end up being too sick to work on it, for a long told. The service guy said I could count on it being there "a couple of months" minimum.

The only other dealer around with a decent diesel shop won't be able to get to it, to even look at it, till around the 12th of December.

Has anyone else ran into a problem with a significant coolant leak, on the back side of the engine, below the EGR Valve mounting?

I'll be over here, in the corner, puking. 🤮
 

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OK, so assuming it wasn't leaking prior to egr removal, I seriously doubt it is leaking from the head.

If I had to guess, you cracked the egr cooler somewhere or somehow compromised it causing it to leak coolant.

It is sad the best a gm repair shop can come up with is they think it is the head. Not unexpected however.

So first you have to find out where it is leaking and what exactly is leaking.


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay, to be honest, I didn't know there was an "EGR cooler". When I first noticed it the other night, I thought I felt a hole in a hose in the back of the engine, below the EGR. Today, when showing the service rep where it was leaking from, I noticed it wasn't a hose, but felt more like a metal casting(?).

I'll give them the benefit of the doubt, in that the tech was just doing a cursory check, as they didn't even expect to get out on the rack till tomorrow. In fact they called me about 20 minutes before they closed, so I can guarantee it wasn't much more than a quick spot check.

But, thank you, for the further information. I'm gonna read up on the EGR cooler some, now.
 

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Start around the 2:30 mark and brush up on your Russian or read the subtitles.😂😂

Somebody posted this awhile back.

 

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2014 Cruze Diesel
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Did you replace the sealing plate that goes between the egr valve and the back of the engine when you replaced the valve? Looks like this. Part # 12647009

If not it might have gotten damaged when you were working to remove the valve and it is now leaking. I'd guess it was that before the EGR cooler or a line, especially since this just started after all this valve work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did replace the spacing plate. Good thing I did buy one, cause I wrecked the old one getting it off.

So, here's something... I thought I was taking the good torx bolt out of the EGR Valve, but realized it was another, separate T-30 torx bolt. I'm wondering if I didn't get it tightened up all the way, or even much at all. That bolt holds the EGR cooler hose pipe on. THAT might explain everything. 🙏

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Hmm, maybe? That seems like a tough bolt to reach though. Have you already had your oil cooler lines done? They connect to the back of the engine around the EGR valve, when mine went it had a pinhole that was spraying cooling onto the back to the block near that area. Hell one of them might even connect to that circled pipe, it's just about the right spot for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK, so assuming it wasn't leaking prior to egr removal, I seriously doubt it is leaking from the head.

If I had to guess, you cracked the egr cooler somewhere or somehow compromised it causing it to leak coolant.
Took it to another dealer this morning, and they pressure checked the coolant system and said it was leaking from thy EGR cooler. Repair estimate was little over $2000 out the door. Unfortunately, I'm guessing it's near impossible to know exactly where the cooler is leaking from and if it's a crack in it vs one of the coolant hoses with a pinhole leak.

Rockauto has the entire cooler assembly for $446, and the dealer's labor charge will be around $800 to install.

Anyone ever tackled THAT job before? Unfortunately, Haynes/Chilton manuals don't even cover time diesel engines and an entire set of GM shop manuals is well over $400.

It doesn't seem to be leaking a great deal now, but still a little bit and definitely not enough to overheat, as long as I check it daily.

I just don't know what to do, now.
 
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