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Emissions delete/race tune install

281K views 307 replies 50 participants last post by  georgelivezey1960 
#1 ·
So my Cruze TD has about 55,000 miles on it now, and has been mildly trouble-free. I've had several emissions-related trouble codes, as well as the annoying "Poor Quality DEF" light come on multiple times. Being somewhat technical minded, and after perusing several delete threads, I've decided to give it a go, with the intentions of paying now to save later. I plan on keeping this car for at least another 5 years, well past the warranty, and would like to knock out the very expensive emissions system that has the potential to be a ticking time bomb. Also, I am not a big fan of other people telling me what I can\cannot put on my car, so doing this feeds my Libertarian leanings :D.

I've had the car for almost a year, but lost my mileage records in August, and had to start over again. Since then, my average MPH has been 39 MPH.
So far, the car is averaging 38 MPG in a mix of winter and summer blend diesel, lots of city driving (lowest MPG for a tank is 26, highest was 53), and a few long trips mixed in. I run AMSOIL for the motor oil, and will be switching the transmission fluid out to AMSOIL soon, too.

Total cost with the military discount on the Oz Tuner\new down pipe was $1227.60. I decided against the EGR block kit, since they shut the EGR off in the tune. As often and as best I can, I will update this thread with new results.
 
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#2 ·
So, you do not care about other's health? That is what you are saying? Because Libertarians do not care about the environment??
Anybody you care about have severe allergies or ASTHMA? Because if you do, you are literally jamming your arm down their throat and squeezing their lungs. But hey, if you want to spend $1227.60 to help make others suffer, that's on you. I just hope they enact Diesel emission inspections. Have a nice life.
 
#6 ·
False equivalencies and strawman arguments won't suffice here. I don't mind if you disagree with my decision-in fact, I welcome opposition and corrections- but you'll have to do better than that. If you truly believed what you just wrote, I think you'd be far better off protesting at truck stops and diesel truck pulls. My puny 2.0L diesel will have zero effect upon your health, or anyone else's for that matter.

With regards to the build, I want to be as upfront and honest as possible. Politics aside, I feel that practically and mechanically speaking, this is the lesser of two evils for this engine. Given that I want to keep it in the family for many years, I believe that installing these race parts will better serve that purpose, cost the least, and also put a bigger smile on my face when I mash the skinny pedal. If diesel ever goes back to $4 and $5\gallon, it will definitely help pay for itself, but I doubt that it ever will. This is more about a) fixing issues from the factory\EPA, and b) my propensity to modify and customize, especially where I see heavy-handed interference into my personal possessions.

Update: Fleece is a bit iffy on the customer service side. I'm not one to complain, but for $1200, you'd think they would take care of customers better, especially given that we're supporting their skirting the edges of the law. They won't provide instructions on how to do the install, and they never did send any kind of tracking number or shipment notification. However, I did receive the package today, after ordering it 2 days ago. They also knocked off 10% for my wearing the US flag on my shoulder.

All that comes in the package is the EFI Live tuner, 2 cables for the tuner, the hand-built down pipe, and a set of instructions for the tuner that seem to be have been written by a 2nd grader. Again, not to pick a bone with Fleece off the bat, but numerous grammar errors, plus a down pipe that already needs a re-coat of paint... we'll see how the finished product is. The welds on the pipe and bungs aren't exactly 5 out of 5 stars, either, but all I need is for the tune to be spot-on, and for the pipe to fit and not leak.

Going to try to install this weekend or next weekend.

 
#4 ·
Hi Sailurman:
He may actually be doing you a favor!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter

[h=2]Health Considerations[/h]The additional cost burden of DPF filters is primarily passed to consumers with possibly the only benefit being quieter trucks. Any reduction in overall soot by mass, aka diesel particulate matter (DPM), may be negated by the mostly-ignored fact that DPM from DPFs is extremely fine, finer than the DPM that is released from pre-DPF diesel engines.[SUP][citation needed][/SUP] The finer DPM is estimated to have more surface area and penetrate lung tissue more easily than larger particles. No healthy human studies have been performed at diesel exhaust concentrations normally found in an urban or city environment, eliminating other health contributing factors to disease would be insurmountable in such a study.[SUP][11]



[/SUP]
 
#24 · (Edited)
Hi Sailurman:
He may actually be doing you a favor!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_particulate_filter

Health Considerations

The additional cost burden of DPF filters is primarily passed to consumers with possibly the only benefit being quieter trucks. Any reduction in overall soot by mass, aka diesel particulate matter (DPM), may be negated by the mostly-ignored fact that DPM from DPFs is extremely fine, finer than the DPM that is released from pre-DPF diesel engines.[SUP][citation needed][/SUP] The finer DPM is estimated to have more surface area and penetrate lung tissue more easily than larger particles. No healthy human studies have been performed at diesel exhaust concentrations normally found in an urban or city environment, eliminating other health contributing factors to disease would be insurmountable in such a study.[SUP][11]



[/SUP]
Thanks Aranath for that info. I will do a more in-depth search as that wikipedia source does not have a citation supporting the particulate size part of the article. But for now, with one being a known problem and the other being unsupported I maintain my Personal Opinion that emission control devices are reducing toxins from the pipe here in the U.S. where the laws are enforced. Removal of said devices increases those toxins.
Some folks think that "Well, it's just one car and the impact is negligible." But if you look at the big picture where all these single vehicles are combined that footprint grows exponentially.

I have no issues with performance tuning a vehicle to it's maximum potential while maintaining the integrity of the emissions control devices of the vehicle.

Again, thanks for the valuable input.
 
#9 ·
I believe so. I'm guessing the engine will still need some of the oxygen sensor(s) to adjust the air\fuel ratio, but other than that, I don't know what else will be vital to keep it running without a CEL. There are 4 bungs on the Fleece pipe.
 
#11 ·
I'm also on the learning curve here with regards to this install. I'll be doing it with either a professional welder friend, or a different friend who's got a 650 HP Mustang he built himself. I'm not too worried, but instructions would have been great to have. However, having tuned and worked on a few Duramax motors back in the day, it shouldn't be too far out in left field for me.
 
#14 ·
So a couple of questions for you :).....what's the difference between the [h=1]EFILive AutoCal with Custom ECM Tuning and the EFILive AutoCal with Special Edition Custom ECM Tuning. Do you need the special edition one if you do the downpipe and to get the EGR delete whereas the other one is for stock cars?[/h]
Next question, do you know if it also deactivates the DEF system as part of the tune?

Last question, and I might've just missed reading this, but just curious if your car is still under warranty?
 
#17 ·
So does the scr still stay in the exhaust, it is just not used? I believe only the dpf is physically removed, and the scr stays there and basically does nothing after the delete.

If so, I wonder how much of a restriction it will be, and if it would be worth it to have it removed, replaced with a piece of straight exhaust pipe, with flanges welded onto the exhaust system, new pipe, and scr, so that if it was ever necessary the scr could just be bolted on and off.

Just thinking out loud here.
 
#18 ·
You'd certainly remove a ton of weight, especially if you pull the DEF tank as well. I think someone on here did that. Given the DEF weighs 40lbs (just the fluid, not even counting the tank), there's a substantial reduction to be had.
 
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#22 ·
I would think replacing the systems in the exhaust with a straight pipe would also slightly reduce any kind of under-car wind resistance that they might cause, as well. However, I would believe that amount to be very, very small.
 
#23 ·
The major difference with this tune vs the other ones offered by Fleece is that it actually shuts down the DPF, DEF, and EGR systems. Essentially, as I understand it, after the install I'll have pure air coming in, mixed with fuel, and then burned, with the exhaust gasses going straight out the tail pipe with no mechanisms to restrict. That's why it costs so much, and is "race only". That's also why I'm a big fan of this setup, since we really don't have the technology to implement safe, effective DPF systems yet (look up the Ford 6.4L diesel, and how it would melt the turbos and last 2 cylinders during regen mode). Puking fuel into the last cylinder to burn off soot a) doesn't make a lot of environmental sense, and b) is pushing the metals in the piston and block, as well as in the turbo, way past what they should if you want a long-living Cruze. I know several members have hit 200K miles, but again, I believe this is the least of 2 evils.

The weight savings should be pretty substantial. I do plan on replacing the DEF tank with a spare donut tire once I move this spring. I won't be throwing away or selling the emissions parts, in the event I ever need to put them back on, but at minimum, I do plan on a SCR and muffler delete. Diesels LOVE unrestricted exhaust. Having tuned several Duramax motors with a $150 Diablo tuner before, I fully expect to see the 70 HP gains that Fleece advertises. Can't wait for the install! Car is still under warranty at 55K miles, but it's already starting to display the emissions gremlins.
 
#26 ·
Well, I'm now much more seriously considering doing the tune and deletes. My car was in the shop a couple of weeks ago for about $2300 in warranty work. Two of the things that were fixed were emissions related. NOx sensor (granted that was a recall) and DEF tank was replaced as the heater went. Today, while driving down the highway the check engine light came back on. I may call around to see what the cost would be to have the down pipe installed.
 
#27 ·
Isn't there a software update for the Def tank where it changes the good values of the resistor or something? I figured the heaters didn't actually die that often and it was just in need of that update.

In other news I too would like the delete tune but can't bring myself to do it when I'm trouble free
 
#31 ·
After several hours of wrenching, the project is finally done. It's certainly not as easy as Fleece bills it to be, but with basic hand tools and a friend or two, it's definitely doable in your driveway. There are no check engine lights to speak of, and the only differences now are gobs more power, a transmission that seems confused by the power boost, a little bit more growl at low RPM, and no regen nonsense to deal with.

My immediate impressions: the tune is magical. It's surprising that Fleece can hack into something that sophisticated, and turn off every nuisance emissions control system, without a single glitch or hiccup. Not once was a diagnostic code flashed during the tuning or during the 20 minutes of driving I've put on since the install. Around town, it's much more lively off the line, and the freeway power is just ridiculous. You'll easily be thrown back into your seat, especially if you're more of a hyper-miler like myself. I was able to chirp the tires several times in 1st and 2nd gear, and the roads are bone dry.

The transmission is shifting harder, and seems confused at which points to shift at, but I'm guessing it will take a few hundred miles (and some fresh AMSOIL) to sort itself out. The car was in regen mode when I started the install, and it was nice to see 60 mpg on the freeway again, instead of the usual 30 it gets during regen mode. There's a bit more noise off the line, but nothing substantial.

One major issue did surface during the install, which wasn't directly related to our work: the number 3 injector is melting. Like the housing itself it melting, and you can see where soot has sprayed out of the cylinder onto the fuel lines. That's a major, major issue, but so far I haven't detected any issues from the car itself, other than the discovery today. Based upon my knowledge of DPF systems, my best guess is that the DPF is to blame, since fuel is getting puked into one or more of the last cylinders in order to be burned off in the DPF to cook off the soot. While that won't be an issue from now on, the damage has been done. Even if the injector is performing as designed, there's still evidence of a small pressure leak, which means less power and economy.

Overall, I'd give the whole experience:

3/10- customer service. Fleece seems to only want to sell the product, and has next to nothing to offer in terms of advice or installation help
5/10- ease of install. The installation itself was a breeze, but with no instructions to either remove or install the hardware, it wasn't without issues
8/10- value. Given the issues I'm already having with the emissions systems already, I'm extremely pleased to have all that gone, plus the added power
9/10- performance. Diesels respond so well to tuning, and I wouldn't be surprised if the car is making the 50-70+ HP they promised

I will definitely update here as fuel and maintenance numbers come in, but I can give a brief tutorial now.

Tools you'll need:

  1. Jack\stands
  2. Gloves
  3. Assorted pliers, including Channel-lock pliers
  4. Flathead screwdrivers
  5. Assorted wrenches and socket sets, ranging from 7mm to 17 mm. 10mm and 13mm were in heavy use.
  6. 1 helper
  7. Flashlight
  8. Exhaust manifold paint


To start, I'd advise working on a cold car. My car was in regen mode when I pulled into my buddy's house, and given that it was 85 degrees and sunny, burned skin was a given. The turbo, DPF, and heat shield were all hot enough to cook your breakfast eggs on. Fleece didn't do so hot of job painting the downpipe, so I used a $10 can of high-temp paint at O'Reilly to fix their mistakes.



  • Jack the car up on the passenger side, as high as your equipment will allow for, and secure with jack stands. The parking brake will definitely need to be utilized as well. Using a 10mm socket set, take the upper heat shield off, as well as the plastic engine cover.
  • Pull the top two sensors from the DPF, and set these aside safely.
  • Crawl underneath the car, and using your flathead and 7mm wrenches, remove the entire plastic guard on the underside of the car. You'll need that room to pull the DPF out later on.
  • Working from below and in the engine bay, use your 10mm to remove the bottom heat shield. After this, use a socket (15mm I believe) to loosen the clamp on the turbo\downpipe connection.
  • While you're working on the bottom heat shield, take the 3rd sensor out of the DPF. The 4th sensor stays in, as there's really no way to remove it with the DPF still on the car. From the bottom of the car, use your pliers to bend the heat shield so that it can be pulled straight up and out of the engine bay, being careful to thread the 4th sensor's wiring harness through the hole in the heat shield. Make sure you've already disconnected the sensor's harness from the loom that runs along the back of the grill.
  • Now, you're ready to pull the 3 bolts from the exhaust pipe. They were rusty on my 55k mile car that's rarely seen road salt, but not too difficult. They're 13 mm, and the top one will probably take 3x as long as the other two combined.
  • Next, remove the two bolts anchoring the DPF to the oil pan (what a terrible place to connect the DPF, GM!!!).
  • This leaves two bolts that are anchoring the DPF to the engine block, through a horizontal bracket. DO NOT remove these bolts- it's a waste of time, as we found out the hard way. The DPF will only come off if you remove the actual bracket from the engine block. Each nut took about 10 minutes for the 3 of us, so be patient.
  • With these last nuts off, your DPF is ready for removal. Well, almost. I was warned about two rubber vacuum hoses at the back of the DPF, and sure enough, towards the driver's side, you'll see two rubber hoses. These must be removed before the DPF can come off. It took some serious teamwork, but once the clamps come off, the hoses aren't too bad.
  • With the car jacked up as high as you can go (safely), pull the DPF down and out of the engine bay. Be careful since it's probably going to shower soot on you.
  • The installation will take 1\6 the time of the removal. Finger-tight the bolts on the exhaust flange down below, and connect the new downpipe to the turbo. That clamp will give you headaches, and it takes two people to open it up. After fighting with it for a while, we got it to fit over the turbo and downpipe, then tightened everything down.
  • The 4th sensor needs to be removed with a Channel-lock pliers (it's something like a 22mm wrench, so we just used the pliers instead of buying a wrench that big). Reinstall all the sensors, and remember to place the wiring back into the little clips and zip ties that GM uses on the stock setup.
  • Now that the hardware is done, reinstall the plastic shields on the underside, and lower the car down.
  • Tuning the car takes about 10 minutes, and was drama free for me. The AutoCal tuner is pretty low-tech, as far as user interaction goes, but it certainly gets the job done. After it's done tuning, fire up the car and check for leaks. I did notice a small exhaust leak at the turbo-downpipe connection, but that may be because the clamp was warped during the removal.


I took several pictures of the install, but it's pretty straightforward. Definitely not for beginners, but it was a great project for a lovely Saturday afternoon with a few good friends.

You can see the cleaned-up engine bay, as well as that cooked injector.

Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Automotive engine part
Vehicle Engine Auto part Car Family car
Auto part Automotive exhaust
Auto part Fuel line Engine Carburetor Automotive engine part
 
#35 ·
I have half the video made already. Hopefully today I will get a chance to shoot the other half.
 
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#37 ·
Nice write up and pictures. I would have suggested if i had read this earlier to have that pipe ceramic coated on the inside like they do to headers. Most places that do powder coating can do this, or can send it out to have done. It will last indefinatly and will keep all of the heat in the pipe.
 
#38 ·
This - it'll also help prevent against corrosion.

My Cobalt's header is ceramic coated inside and out, and within 15-20 minutes of driving the car (hard), you can grab it with your hand and not have immediate third degree burns (or any burns).
 
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