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Are there any good, proven options for an engine block heater on the 1st gen 2.0 diesel? Would love to wake up and have heat in the car right away, instead of good old -20F chilly air.
 

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As i recall, someone said it will turn the check engine light on, due to a discrepancy between the coolant temp sensor and the ambient (or in take air) sensor.
 

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http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/201-...coolant-heater-circulator-install-thread.html

I have installed a lower radiator hose heater on my car this fall. It is 375 Watts and so far it does pretty good, I am running it along with the OEM 125 Watt pan heater. With temps already near 0F the engine coolant temperature is around 85F at start up cold.

I still may upgrade to a 1000 Watt circulating engine heater, which i have, but I have not got a Tee for the lower radiator hose to do the install yet.

I have not got any codes so far, but I have a heated garage so the car is only using the engine heater every other cold start. I believe that the code is only activated after something like 3 consecutive cold starts using the extra engine heating which causes a temperature imbalance between sensors.
 

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Sounds good, thanks for steering me in the right direction.
 

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I forget where I got the part number from, but back in July when I thought I was buying a first gen diesel, I thought this was the factory block heater for the 2.0 CTD. Since I don't own the car or the heater, I can't positively confirm that it fits.
This P/N is just the bare heater, no cord. I don't have the number for the whole kit handy, but it's around $90, the cord has a thermostat in it, which I don't want. I want the heater to come on when I plug it in, not when I plug it in if and only if GM thinks the air temp is cold enough.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/156953/Engine-Block-Heater-2pin-12586687/
 

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I forget where I got the part number from, but back in July when I thought I was buying a first gen diesel, I thought this was the factory block heater for the 2.0 CTD. Since I don't own the car or the heater, I can't positively confirm that it fits.
This P/N is just the bare heater, no cord. I don't have the number for the whole kit handy, but it's around $90, the cord has a thermostat in it, which I don't want. I want the heater to come on when I plug it in, not when I plug it in if and only if GM thinks the air temp is cold enough.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/156953/Engine-Block-Heater-2pin-12586687/
The Gen. 1 CTD OEM heater cord does not have a built in thermostat.
 

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I forget where I got the part number from, but back in July when I thought I was buying a first gen diesel, I thought this was the factory block heater for the 2.0 CTD. Since I don't own the car or the heater, I can't positively confirm that it fits.
This P/N is just the bare heater, no cord. I don't have the number for the whole kit handy, but it's around $90, the cord has a thermostat in it, which I don't want. I want the heater to come on when I plug it in, not when I plug it in if and only if GM thinks the air temp is cold enough.

https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/156953/Engine-Block-Heater-2pin-12586687/
I have only done a cursory glance at this, but it does say 2-wire and Euro in the same sentence. Usually that means 220v single phase vs. our 120v single phase power. Can the heater operate effectively at a lower voltage?
 

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I have only done a cursory glance at this, but it does say 2-wire and Euro in the same sentence. Usually that means 220v single phase vs. our 120v single phase power. Can the heater operate effectively at a lower voltage?
No it won't work as well, you will get half the heat at 110V than at 220V if the heater is rated for 220V.
 
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No it won't work as well, you will get half the heat at 110V than at 220V if the heater is rated for 220V.
Half the Amps at half the Volts equals 1/4 the Watts.
It's like the block heater on my heat pump. 40 Watts is ridiculous, especially with a heavy sound insulating blanket on the compressor, but if I rewire it for 120V, 10 Watts might not be good enough. Should have bought a 20W heater when it was installed.
 

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Half the Amps at half the Volts equals 1/4 the Watts.
It's like the block heater on my heat pump. 40 Watts is ridiculous, especially with a heavy sound insulating blanket on the compressor, but if I rewire it for 120V, 10 Watts might not be good enough. Should have bought a 20W heater when it was installed.
Yeah your right I was trying to calculate quick in my head, but was using the wrong formula.

(V^2)/R=Watts, as the Voltage drops the Watts go down exponentially. Conversely if you increase the Voltage the Watts go up exponentially.
The Resistance will stay the same as it is a constant value based on the device in question.
 
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