Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Forum members.
I would like some assistance if possible please.
Has anyone had their Cruze stall while driving intermittently?

On some occasions (about 10 so far) while driving the engine just stalls. As if somebody just turns the key off while driving. The car has been serviced at all intervals and the battery has just been replaced. I don't believe it's a fuel issue, because the fuel filter is ok and it's not running rough or starving during acceleration.
You can't pick the timing of the fault either. It can happen any time even on hot or cold days.
On a couple of occasions I couldn't start it back up straight away. It wouldn't even crank the starter motor. I had to leave it for a couple of minutes. Frustrating when it happens at an intersection. On some occasions I was able to coast and change down a gear to crank start it again.

No fault codes are showing up on my scanner.
I am suspecting it's an electrical issue of some kind. Probably in the ECU somewhere????
I will take the car to the local Holden Dealer, but it's 5,000KM's outside of the warranty, so I suspect it won't be a cheap fix or diagnosis.

Anyone had this issue?

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,147 Posts
Hello, I too live in Sydney and haven't had any issues. Do you realise you are in the diesel section? There is a known problem with the negative cable in some Cruzen, have you looked at that possibility? It is always a good idea to say which engine is in your car as some have different problems to others.

If you have a petrol engine try this link in the forum, it's an Australian section.


  • 1.6L & 1.6L Turbo
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,596 Posts
If you were in the US I'd guess it's the negative battery cable. It could still be a bad battery cable or a failed computer component. Based on your description I wonder if it's a ECU overheat issue which would indicate a short circuit either in or at the connections to the ECU.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,147 Posts
Thanks Aussie.
It's a 2010 Diesel 110kw Single Overhead Cam Engine Code Z20S1 with a manual gearbox.

I will check the negative cable and the connections to the ECU.
There is a guy on this forum with a 2009 model matching yours his forum name is "grs1961", he may have more idea than I have. My diesel is the Australian made twin cam model auto. The car that is the engine comes from Korea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
998 Posts
Can't add anything - but mines started to not want to start when cold[1], no codes, the battery is fine, it's as if the glow plugs aren't glowing, or, perhaps it's the fuel pump...

1 - Yes, I know, cold in Oz in February doesn't mean the same as cold to a USAian! :)
 

·
Resident Forum Drunkard
Joined
·
9,273 Posts
Can't add anything - but mines started to not want to start when cold[1], no codes,

1 - Yes, I know, cold in Oz in February doesn't mean the same as cold to a < USAian! :) >
Your Funny . hey we finally got a Diesel !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
After you have checked all the grounds, also check these connections. I know someone with who one of these connections came loose, dirt went inside it and his engine stalled.
Vehicle Car Auto part Engine Automotive exterior


After you have done that, loosen the screws i have circled blue in the next picture. Just loosen them 1 turn and retighten. The nephew of the Chevrolet Cruze, the Opel Astra, has problems with that.

Electronics Technology Machine Electronic device Electronic component


Hope this solves your problems.
My car started stalling. I replaced the battery, did this and fitted a new sensor on the DPF filter and since then it hasn't stalled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All fixed

Thanks guys for the advice. I was starting to go crazy with this.
I rechecked all the connections (loosened and tightened ground and positive wires) and it's running like a charm now.
This surprises me as it always had plenty of cranking power on the start. I wouldn't have expected it to be a bad connection.
There was no obvious signs of corrosion but it obviously needed a minor increase in conductivity somewhere.
Great advice guys.

Thanks again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
If you haven't changed the negative battery cable, I would not be surprised if the problem surfaces again.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top