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Engine light came on / now shifting hard / -20 degrees out

2164 Views 16 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Hatchins24
I was driving home from work tonight, put gas in my 2017 Cruze Hatchback and about 5 miles later the check engine light came on and it was shifting rather hard on the highway between 60-70 mph. My assumption is the cold/low levels possibly of transmission fluid are to blame, but I'm here looking for advice.

Might I add that is also about -20 degrees here in Wisconsin as well right now. Haven't had any issues prior to this which this Cruze. Any ideas as for how I should proceed? Appreciate any help. Thanks.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I, unfortunately, don't have a scan tool. Guessing I won't get too far diagnosing it without that huh? It seems to be shifting okay anytime I was in the lower gears but up towards 60-70 mph is when it was struggling.
 

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I, unfortunately, don't have a scan tool. Guessing I won't get too far diagnosing it without that huh? It seems to be shifting okay anytime I was in the lower gears but up towards 60-70 mph is when it was struggling.

Being that you had just filled up, it possibly could be related to the gas you just put in.
Pretty much just guessing without the code.
 

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Is this car already out of warranty?

Shifting issues with a check engine light are resultant......the car is operating in base settings...IE 'get home mode'.

My first thought, since this is post fueling, loose or internally frosted gas cap. A frosted gas cap will allow breathing in both directions........it is only supposed to allow air into the tank.....not out of the tank. If the self test indicates excessive air leakage a 'Evap' code sets and the car goes into limp mode.
Same occurs if the gas cap is not fully seated (tightened).

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
One of the codes was
Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. [h=2]P2227[/h]
Basically, it's very cold out and the turbo is having a hard time overcoming that is what the mechanic told me. It's supposed to get back into the 30s and 40s the next couple of days so hoping that will be better on the vehicle.

 

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You don't mention whether you have a gas or diesel engine, this affects where the BARO sensor is located. Regardless of location this code can occur when moisture freezes on/in the BARO sensor.

Beyond that, you're going to need why the code set, which direction is was out of spec, what the voltages/pressures/conditions were when it failed it's diagnostics to go farther.

On gas engine engine you COULD be looking at a failed "MAF" sensor, or it's wiring, on the diesel it's integrated into the ECM. Either way diag is required if the condition persists
 

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One of the codes was
Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. P2227


Basically, it's very cold out and the turbo is having a hard time overcoming that is what the mechanic told me. It's supposed to get back into the 30s and 40s the next couple of days so hoping that will be better on the vehicle.


Pay attention and address only the first code that is stored. Any following codes are generally a result of the primary code (#1)

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One of the codes was
Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance. P2227


Basically, it's very cold out and the turbo is having a hard time overcoming that is what the mechanic told me. It's supposed to get back into the 30s and 40s the next couple of days so hoping that will be better on the vehicle.


Pay attention and address only the first code that is stored. Any following codes are generally a result of the primary code (#1)

Rob
The top code was P0299 engine underboost along with the P2227.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
With my limited knowledge of car mechanics, do you guys think those codes are something that will fix themselves with warm weather coming in(going from -20 to 40 degrees tomorrow)?

How long would you wait before taking it back into the mechanic? Definitely can still feel the "no boost" in my car when getting up to higher speeds.
 

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With my limited knowledge of car mechanics, do you guys think those codes are something that will fix themselves with warm weather coming in(going from -20 to 40 degrees tomorrow)?

How long would you wait before taking it back into the mechanic? Definitely can still feel the "no boost" in my car when getting up to higher speeds.
It may clear up once the weather warms.
It is not uncommon for frost to grow in the intercooler tubes.....especially if the car is being used for short trips.......this will affect turbo pressure as a obstruction.
There have been reports of PCV systems making frost as well.......I do not know what codes could come up if this was the case.

I would recommend not getting too excited till the weather is above freezing for a couple days.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It may clear up once the weather warms.
It is not uncommon for frost to grow in the intercooler tubes.....especially if the car is being used for short trips.......this will affect turbo pressure as a obstruction.
There have been reports of PCV systems making frost as well.......I do not know what codes could come up if this was the case.

I would recommend not getting too excited till the weather is above freezing for a couple days.

Rob
Just an update if anyone is interested. Today the weather is about 25 degrees. A whopping 50 degree difference. I got a car wash and almost immediately after the car wash I had normal "boost" in my car. Almost positive stuff was just frozen with ice and couldn't perform.

I appreciate everyone's responses and learned a few things. Thank you
 
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