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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a 2011 LTZ for my son, drove out to the dealer to get a spare key, come out start it up and I hear a change noise. It's slower than the engine speed and kind of a wah, wah, wah (once per second).
Next day I invited my brother over, found out the engine needs to be warm before the sound starts.
He doesn't have a clue either, says ask a Cruze forum.
So hear I am.
Can anyone help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
118,000 miles and the current oil looks clean and the computer says 65%.
drove it yesterday and the noise stopped for a while.
The noise makes me think of a dry sump pump.
Did I read somewhere that the AC compressors are always on? Looked like a greenish yellow residue on it (if it is located on the bottom rear near the frame rail).
I will try to capture the noise on a video tonight.
Thanks
 

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AC compressor has a clutch, but it's always on when the AC is on (vs clutching on and off). Your description of the noise did remind me of a bad compressor, but didn't want to jump to that with just a description, and the fluorescent dye you see is a refrigerant leak (or past one) - the factory R134 charge contains dye as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The AC is off when I hear it.
suppose I could disconnect the wire harness at the compressor to be sure.
will find time this weekend to get video and clean the compressor to see if the residue is old or new.
Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have a small leak on the front corner of the oil pan I hope to work on this weekend.
From what I read, these engines leak at about 100,000 miles.
Watched a helpful video. Drop the exhaust, bend the heat shield back by the turbo, then the pan will wiggle out. Clean, RTV, and put back in.
Is 89 in lbs torque sound right for the pan bolts?
How about the 2 bolts going into the trans, they look bigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Auto part Fuel line Automotive fuel system Engine Automotive engine part Not sure how good this picture shows the green residue on the compressor.
i cleaned it off after the picture to find out if it returns.
Dropped the oil pan and resealed it. Thanks to the guy with the video on utube. I would add that you don't need to bend the heat shield on the bottom of the turbo. Just as quick to remove 2 mounting bolts and then loosen 1 on a flange that allows the turbo it swing forward about an inch which gives plenty of room to get the pan out and in.
Now I need to try and capture that sound for you guys to give me feedback.
 
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