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Engine reduced power and smoking

22854 Views 65 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  Carpentree
Previous post on DPF full limp mode. Car back at dealer. Had done 3 regens last week. soot at 77, said they brought back down to 21. Took car down road about 4 miles and got reduced power light again and lot of black smoke. Brought it on home and drained the diesel out and replaced with Exxon diesel. Returned to dealer. They did two more manual regens. Told them to take it out for test drive before I come pick it up. Same thing happened to tech, loaded up, sputtering, and smoking. Said getting all kinds of error codes. They are uncertain where to go next. I had put some Sea Foam in fuel when I thought it was bad fuel. Would this have caused some additional problems? The black smoke coming out exhaust is new concern, may be coincidental. At 158000 miles is it still necessary to only use dexos 5w-30 oil? Seems like oil is getting into exhaust, and I am seeing oily residue around Turbo. Think the Turbo seal may be best place to start looking? After all this soot and re-gens are all the sensors able to get cleared of soot and oil so they work correctly, or do you think I will be looking at replacement of them too?
Sorry for all questions. Not feeling too good about skill level of dealership and I am a long way from any other ones. Think they need all the help I can find.
Definitely want to get that scanguage II, and have sent inquiry in to be sure it is set up from my Cruze diesel
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Does anyone know if this can be replaced at home or does it require special tools? I haven't seen anyone else post about this other than this thread here.
cant see why it would be beyond our reach,
I'm just thinking of throwing a 3 inch clamp around it to keep that ring from becoming fatigued. But I don't fully understand the issue. Anyone think that would work?
Popped the hood today and did a quick visual on this intercooler charge pipe, didn’t find any signs of fatigue or pending failure (‘14 CTD, 123K miles).

Mine has spent its life in warmer regions of Texas and Arizona. Rarely sees temps below freezing. Makes me wonder if the part failures mentioned here happened in colder regions where hot/cold cycles are much more extreme?

That said, looking at the point of potential failure I’m not sure a 3 inch clamp would work as the surface is irregular and the steel ring-clamp might prevent good contact between the 3 inch clamp and the plastic end piece that’s prone to fail.

Worth a try though I suppose.

There was an earlier question about whether this part could be installed at home. The short answer appears to be yes.

The top connection to the throttle body looks easy enough. However the bottom connection to the intercooler is buried deep, not accessible from the top. If removal of the engine splash shield (easy task) doesn’t provide access, removal of the front cowl (a little more involved process) may be required.
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Checked mine today also.

June 15 car with 33k.

Looks great and really wouldn't be too bad to replace it appears.
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Could this be caused by blowback? For those that failed, did it happen just cruising down the road or while under heavy load or deceleration?
So, just the pipe and all is well. i am not sure why they listed that gasket - it's the wrong gasket as far as i can tell, but I am not 100% sure. I am also not sure why the OP needed all the extra stuff. Probably driving it for 20 miles like that caused damage. My soot grams were exactly where they were when the issue happened, and no other components were broken.

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So question, last night I was driving my car around town and it went into reduced power mode, I noticed the engine compartment was smoking a little bit which I'm not entirely sure why and it's been making this kind of whistlening sound, my brother in law says it sounds kind of like turbo bearings going bad. And so I was looking around the engine compartment in the dark and that intercooler tube appears to be loose but I'm not entirely sure, I can slide it back and forth maybe like 3/16" of an inch and I tested it, I pushed it all the way in and then revved the car to about 3k rpm's and checked it again and it had pushed it out the 3/16" of an inch or so. I don't know if this is the cause of the reduced power mode, maybe the whistle sound if air is leaking into it, and the reduced power mode? A couple days ago, a message popped up saying DPF filter full keep driving, I kept driving probably 30-miles after the message went away at highway speeds it seemed to work fine. The other day though, the only 'bad' thing I did was idle it for maybe 2 hours in the parking lot while talking on the phone, so not sure if maybe that clogged up the DPF filter or not.

If I have to replace anything with the emissions system(s) I'm just gonna look heavily into getting it all deleted if I can find the right person to do it for me. I'm not scared of the Government. Also, it has just over 130k miles as reference, it's a 2014 Automatic transmission. Only oil I've used for the past 30k miles has been Amsoil specifically designed for European style small diesel engines with emissions equipment.
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