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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I may have to replace my engine. Does anybody here any experience with this? May have blown headgasket which is quite pricey. I see an engine with 22K miles for 1000.00 and may be cheaper than the HG issue. I have 130K on mine. Been great up to now.... was hoping to get at least 200k out of it..but stuff happens. I have to say the dealer(stealer) was worthless in coming up with problem/resolve. Thanks in advance.
 

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That isn't too bad of a price. I have seen them for sale on the internet and that seems to be in the neighborhood of the prices I have come across. I haven't dealt with changing one of these motors but that price range is reasonable.
 

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MT or AT? What caused the leaking head gasket, overheating? Well also thermal stress. Engine rebuilding is becoming a lost art they way they are building them today, tolerance is so critical can't even buy oversized pistons and undersized bearing anymore. But would like to remove the head first to see what you have left.

Ha, can be like all those guys on these car shows, 1,000 bucks is too much, I have to make a profit. Offer you 500 bucks cash, flash some 100 bills. Can't sell it this cheap, have too much in it. So can we split it down the middle for 750 bucks?

And what are you getting? The entire engine with drive belt, turbo, throttle body, alternator, compressor is normally removed, but toss that in as well. Dropped many MT's on these FWD vehicles for clutches, but never had to pull an engine yet, well did on an 80 Horizon with a VW engine in it for a major overhaul, was cheaper back then. After the MT is removed not much left, don't even need a hoist, can pick it up with your hands.
 

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as stated above^^ I would love to know what caused a bad engine after 100,000 + miles....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Im going to compare the price diff..but im leaning toward the replace over the HG fix. Hence we can only assume the cause of the HG was 2 overheats since new. Havnt got the prices just yet. So far I have replaced 2 resevoirs, 3 thermostats and 2 radiator sensors. Driving fine..maybe I notice a slight power loss(could be pschying myself..haha). Seems that after a semi tough hill to my home, i turn it off and the coolant bubbles to the point of losing a little coolant through overflow....otherwise it doesnt...perhaps under heavy load a hairline leak in the HG is the culprit? I ll update as i go..too bad..car has been good. I drive 70 mis a day.
 

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All I can say is that you're going to want to make sure you've got exactly the same engine - at least the same engine code. Because your ECM is going to have to think it's the same engine it's been programmed for. The kicker is if there's been any changes over the years to the same engine code that might affect the ECM.


I see an engine with 22K miles for 1000.00 and may be cheaper than the HG issue.
While it might be cheaper, it sounds like a classic pig in a poke. No doubt, the engine is available because the car got wrecked - but if the car got wrecked, how well was it treated? I don't think the turbo tolerates oil change abuse very well.

Even if the HG cost $2000, I think I'd give it some hard thought before risking buying someone else's problem child. But it really depends on what's wrong and what that means for the engine's levitation. (Like, has it been running with compromised oil?)
 

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Do have things like a compression tester, cylinder leakage tester, and doing a leak down test on the cooling system. Even a vacuum gauge and a real oil pressure gauge.

World has gone crazy with these self diagnosing systems, based on an assumption all the sensors are telling the truth. When in reality, with no secondary references, the only thing these diagnosing systems can detect is if a sensor is either completely opened or shorted, stupid. Can be way out of tolerance and telling all kinds of lies.

The fact of the matter is that the IC engine has not changed in basic operating principle in over a hundred years, so one had to know how to test it with good reliable external equipment.

How about being told with your brake pedal going clear to the floor in a brand new vehicle, you ain't got a problem, not getting any codes. Wish I was lying about this, dealing with complete idiots.

Head gasket for the 1/4 L is only about ten bucks, another 34 bucks for new bolts, torque to yield bolts adds to the throwaway parts list. Head can be inspected for cracks, another new problem that never existed before, and more lies, claim aluminum saves weight, what a couple of pounds in the head of a 1.4 L? More lies, real reason is aluminum is a heck of a lot cheaper to manufacture.

Did have a minor crack in one, a friend charged me five bucks to heliarc it. But you don't know until you look.

When dealing with problems like this, consider the entire vehicle as whether its even worth repairing.

Ha, about about going to a wrecking yard in 1957 and getting a complete Caddy engine for 85 bucks, you know the mileage is correct, still in the vehicle, but had to remove it yourself. Only 8K miles on it. More in the history books, can't even go into the yards, anymore, least in Wisconsin, liability laws.

Last time I was there, don't go there anymore, showed me an engine laying in a mud puddle, said it was good. You can trust me.
 

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Think I over simplied this procedure, this 30 Olds engine was easy to remove the head.



1.4 with overhead camshafts, entire front end has to be removed first, more gaskets, has a turbo, intercooler, and exhaust manifold, more stuff to remove, fuel injectors on the intake manifold, and all those sensors.

Was always a struggle to remove the exhaust manifold, made it even worse with aluminum and poor quality bolts. Recall not only removing the bolts but the treads in the head with them.
 

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Anyone successfully do a head gasket swap or engine swap? I'm stuck w a blown head gasket and not sure what to do. I'd love to do the repairs myself like everything else on the **** Cruze.
 

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Anyone successfully do a head gasket swap or engine swap? I'm stuck w a blown head gasket and not sure what to do. I'd love to do the repairs myself like everything else on the **** Cruze.
Yes, I just finished an engine swap a few weeks ago. From an Eco 2011 MT to an Eco 2014 MT. I'm working to put a quick presentation together over the next weekend. It will not be with deep details but with main steps to do and what were the issues I had. The swap took me and my friend 4 days (2 weekends). Plus an additional day when I swapped the front seats, and a lot of other small parts that I had on my 2011. It is doable to do it at home (garage), you don't have to be an expert but you definitely need some mechanical skills and tools to use. I hope I can post Sunday more details about it. I'm not sure how much space I have for pictures, in the past I had to delete some from my other posts, I hope I still have space to add a few good pictures.
 

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Nice man. I'm at my wit's end trying to pull value from this car. I've done all the work myself and dealer wants 28hundo to do it. So if love to keep the little Cruze rolling. Any info you've got would be great man. I've got most the tools it looks like I'd need and I'm able mechanically. I don't know about doing the head gasket repair myself at home so engine swap would be better I believe. I'll watch for the info man.
 

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MT or AT? I've done MT but AT might be a little different. I did it extracting the engine & transmission from the top, not from the bottom like I saw somewhere else. You will need a 1t crane (I got it from Harbor Freight) and you need somebody to help you. Things are heavy and better work with somebody all the time, every mistake can cost you a long recovery time. I will post more details on Sunday, I will create a new topic.
 

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Nice, thanks man. I've got automatic transmission. I've got a engine hoist in the garage I'd be using so getting it out the top w out the trans attached would be ideal.
 

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[QUOTE="CRUISE-CRUZE, post: 3254773, ok guys im a female but not a stupid one but this cruze crap for replacing my engine has me screwed up .can someone please tell me what do all of the extra numbers an letters have to do with my motor as in Vin 8 digit an all that... I have a blown head gasket also an its cheaper to swap out the motor with a lot less miles on it.....so also I've been googling all day so please tell me the best place to get a engine with low miles...thank you
MT or AT? I've done MT but AT might be a little different. I did it extracting the engine & transmission from the top, not from the bottom like I saw somewhere else. You will need a 1t crane (I got it from Harbor Freight) and you need somebody to help you. Things are heavy and better work with somebody all the time, every mistake can cost you a long recovery time. I will post more details on Sunday, I will create a new topic.
[/QUOTE]
 

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I may have to replace my engine. Does anybody here any experience with this? May have blown headgasket which is quite pricey. I see an engine with 22K miles for 1000.00 and may be cheaper than the HG issue. I have 130K on mine. Been great up to now.... was hoping to get at least 200k out of it..but stuff happens. I have to say the dealer(stealer) was worthless in coming up with problem/resolve. Thanks in advance.
I am on my 3rd engine in my cruze, they are lemons.
 

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Think I over simplied this procedure, this 30 Olds engine was easy to remove the head.



1.4 with overhead camshafts, entire front end has to be removed first, more gaskets, has a turbo, intercooler, and exhaust manifold, more stuff to remove, fuel injectors on the intake manifold, and all those sensors.

Was always a struggle to remove the exhaust manifold, made it even worse with aluminum and poor quality bolts. Recall not only removing the bolts but the treads in the head with them.
I agree. I did my HG 2 years ago, I still regret just doing an engine swap. You pretty much have to take apart your whole engine to get to it. While having mine laid out, I replaced A LOT of parts that didn't have issues, but figured I should do them while everything was out. (Timeing chain/sprockets/guides, injectors, all new seals to everything I took off, valves/valve stems had SOOOO much carbon buildup, threads on the aluminum block can EASILY be stripped out, all to save $500. . . )
 
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