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Discussion Starter #1
So, I’m going to do some exhaust work on my 17 Hatch. I’m wondering if anyone else has done this?



This is the OEM exhaust from downpipe back. I believe the 1 I drew is catalytic converter and 2 is muffler (that one I’m sure of). I’m wondering if anyone has deleted the muffler, and what that sounds like. I’d like to get a bit more growl out of the exhaust, but not be super annoyed with it. I was toying with deleting muffler and throwing a resonator or glass pack right at the end before the OEM exhaust outlet. What have people done? What does it sound like? I like to have a very clear idea of what I’m doing before I do it, that way I can have all parts I need lined up before hand, and also know that I won’t be surprised and/or disappointed with the outcome...


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Okay, based on preliminary examination, I believe this is quite doable just using a 90 degree elbow and a reducer, depending on the 90 and the reducer it may just require two precise cuts, placement of parts, and a couple clamps. Don’t want to weld in case I want to throw the stock muffler back on. I’ve seen some videos of straight piped and muffler deleted cruzes, but they had varying mods and generally weren’t hatches, and they have a significantly different exhaust systems. So, this drawing is my “blueprint”, I’ll see if Napa, O’Reilly, or advance can help out. They’re all within a mile of each other, and on my way where I’m headed in ten minutes. Hopefully I can get to this tonight, if not, tomorrow evening it shall be done. Wish luck.



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Ahhhh, that was nice and easy. I won’t have a chance to give it a real road test beyond up and down the street briefly. It’s quiet at idle once cold start passes, and quiet at cruising rpm, and sounds angry when you step on it. It thankfully doesn’t have that raspy tin sound that older non DI 4 cylinders like to make. It cost twenty bucks, and I just used a saws all, a deadblow, a jack stand (told hold muffler while cutting), and a half inch drive socket wrench with 9/16ths socket for the muffler clamps. Im not sure I should do a write up of a how to, in this case, because it all had to do with parts availability, and your style of doing things. I will do one if you guys want me to. All told, took thirty minutes.







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I welded this up a while back, and managed to get my palm prints in the finish lol. I cut the stock exhaust off before the front resonator/converter. I cut through the thickest flange, so I could easily weld up the stock 3 bolt mount with the hangers to my new muffler.

I used a Dynomax 2.5 in/out super turbo muffler. And a homemade turndown. I like the sound, but the turndown makes it too loud in the cabin. I’m ordering a 2.5 piping kit next week and a ypipe. Gonna weld up for dual tailpipes. Should sound rather nice once I get it routed properly.


https://youtu.be/2PHozD6uJVA
https://youtu.be/2hlF7AP82hM

Cop passes by before I do on my return trip lol.


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Discussion Starter #7
I’m currently building a “silencer”: took some videos this morning, will have to email them to myself and see if I can post them on laptop, can’t seem to get it to work with the phone


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I would like to say that the phone does not really depict the sound well. iPhone 7plus and it is definitely louder in person. The silencer sounded loudest on video, due to being in the garage and no wind noise/external saturation to dampen the microphone. Doing the muffler cutoff is just fine at driving speeds. I will say there is a very deep vibrating loud drone between 2200-2900 RPM, that is obnoxious. I had to do something about that.

Home made silencer.
I took 1/4 inch stainless sheet and a 1 1/2 inch stainless tube. I cut the stainless sheet with a hacksaw to 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 inches (that’s approximately inside diameter of exhaust exit. I then punched and drilled out 1 1/2 inches of the sheet so the tube could faint in it. I wire wheeled and sanded every surface of the sheet when done.
I then took the tube and cut it to somewhere around 6-7 inches. I pushed it into the exhaust exit until it stopped, then held my finger in around an inch and cut there. Then I sanded the interior and exterior of the tube.
I put the tube into the sheet and welded it on the interior side. I took a 3/16tjs thick grinding wheel and ground corkscrewing grooves in the shaft of the tube. I happened to have a cap for this tube, so I sanded all surface of the cap, placed it on the tube, drilled a 5/16th hole. Took the cap off. Took a 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch shaft bolt and nut, and tightened the nut on the bolt through the shaft. I tack welded the nut in place. This way I could add/remove the cap with ease to restrict airflow on a whim more than just the silencer, and its just a bolt to screw in place to hold it together.
Next, on the face of the sheet I welded the tube to, I drilled and tapped a hole for a 4 inch long bolt (think it was 1/4 x 28 thread) so it would make installation and removal of the silencer into the exhaust easy. Then spray painted everything with all screws in to not paint threads and make tightening and loosing the bolts difficult.




Lastly I drilled two holes into the exhaust, one on each side. I took a nut and screwed it into a lag bolt, put the bolts through the holes, and tightened a nut on the inside of the exhaust (just put a piece of tape on the end of a box wrench to hold nut in place). Then I tack welded those in place. Now I have set screws to securely hold the silencer in place and prevent obnoxious vibration noises.




Lastly, if putting the cap on isn’t quiet enough (which it more than is. It’s stock volume with cap on silencer). You could always wrap the silencer with fiberglass Matt and hold it in place with chicken wire (or coat hanger, or whatever).
I’m running it with just the silencer, no cap, and it’s absolutely perfect. Has a great deep sound on acceleration, not loud at all unless you get the manifold pressure high (give it more than 1/5 throttle). And you cannot hear it at highway speeds. Pressure relief from the recirculating valve is still quite audible and nice. All in all; I am absolutely pleased. Total cost of all exhaust modification: 350 plus tax for catless downpipe. 20 dollars for muffler delete. Roughly six hours of work all told. Expression 328 CIn owners face as you gap them and your car growls...priceless.
Any questions shoot them my way. And yes, those welds are not pretty. I am not a welder. They are structurally functional and that’s all I care about. They are not visible unless you get underneath the car.


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im definitely going to try this! low cost exhaust mod !!

I would like to say that the phone does not really depict the sound well. iPhone 7plus and it is definitely louder in person. The silencer sounded loudest on video, due to being in the garage and no wind noise/external saturation to dampen the microphone. Doing the muffler cutoff is just fine at driving speeds. I will say there is a very deep vibrating loud drone between 2200-2900 RPM, that is obnoxious. I had to do something about that.

Home made silencer.
I took 1/4 inch stainless sheet and a 1 1/2 inch stainless tube. I cut the stainless sheet with a hacksaw to 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 inches (that’s approximately inside diameter of exhaust exit. I then punched and drilled out 1 1/2 inches of the sheet so the tube could faint in it. I wire wheeled and sanded every surface of the sheet when done.
I then took the tube and cut it to somewhere around 6-7 inches. I pushed it into the exhaust exit until it stopped, then held my finger in around an inch and cut there. Then I sanded the interior and exterior of the tube.
I put the tube into the sheet and welded it on the interior side. I took a 3/16tjs thick grinding wheel and ground corkscrewing grooves in the shaft of the tube. I happened to have a cap for this tube, so I sanded all surface of the cap, placed it on the tube, drilled a 5/16th hole. Took the cap off. Took a 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch shaft bolt and nut, and tightened the nut on the bolt through the shaft. I tack welded the nut in place. This way I could add/remove the cap with ease to restrict airflow on a whim more than just the silencer, and its just a bolt to screw in place to hold it together.
Next, on the face of the sheet I welded the tube to, I drilled and tapped a hole for a 4 inch long bolt (think it was 1/4 x 28 thread) so it would make installation and removal of the silencer into the exhaust easy. Then spray painted everything with all screws in to not paint threads and make tightening and loosing the bolts difficult.




Lastly I drilled two holes into the exhaust, one on each side. I took a nut and screwed it into a lag bolt, put the bolts through the holes, and tightened a nut on the inside of the exhaust (just put a piece of tape on the end of a box wrench to hold nut in place). Then I tack welded those in place. Now I have set screws to securely hold the silencer in place and prevent obnoxious vibration noises.




Lastly, if putting the cap on isn’t quiet enough (which it more than is. It’s stock volume with cap on silencer). You could always wrap the silencer with fiberglass Matt and hold it in place with chicken wire (or coat hanger, or whatever).
I’m running it with just the silencer, no cap, and it’s absolutely perfect. Has a great deep sound on acceleration, not loud at all unless you get the manifold pressure high (give it more than 1/5 throttle). And you cannot hear it at highway speeds. Pressure relief from the recirculating valve is still quite audible and nice. All in all; I am absolutely pleased. Total cost of all exhaust modification: 350 plus tax for catless downpipe. 20 dollars for muffler delete. Roughly six hours of work all told. Expression 328 CIn owners face as you gap them and your car growls...priceless.
Any questions shoot them my way. And yes, those welds are not pretty. I am not a welder. They are structurally functional and that’s all I care about. They are not visible unless you get underneath the car.


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Discussion Starter #14
I have a 2017 LT w/auto and just my humble 2 cents worth.
V-8 = Loud and proud
I-4 Ricer = Keep that ratty thing quiet.
I agree generally with this. I do like to have an audible exhaust upon acceleration, it helps with clutching and gives the extra sensation of hearing alongside feel of driving and shifting. Plus, if done decently, to me, they don’t sound tinny or ricey.
Fun fact, the term “ricer” comes from the Japanese automobile manufacturing plants used to burn rice as their energy source to manufacture automobiles. Hence rice burner.


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I agree generally with this. I do like to have an audible exhaust upon acceleration, it helps with clutching and gives the extra sensation of hearing alongside feel of driving and shifting. Plus, if done decently, to me, they don’t sound tinny or ricey.
Fun fact, the term “ricer” comes from the Japanese automobile manufacturing plants used to burn rice as their energy source to manufacture automobiles. Hence rice burner.


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Hmm the more you know.

Yeah obviously this is subjective but I think there are plenty of 4 cylinders that sound nice with a proper exhaust setup. It can be very very bad too though. The problem is 10s of millions of kids go to pep boys and put cherry bombs or some dumb **** like that on their civic and built a reputation for the entire 4 cylinder community. One bad apple as the saying goes... But I recently watched one of engineering explained vids on his Honda S2000 exhaust setup and that thing sounded really mean and throaty. Of course he installed a top of the line titanium exhaust system so it better sound good haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have a muffler coming this evening. I decided I wanted to spend a bit more and get very unique. Making a dual exhaust. Going to cut out a template of the existing exhaust exit, then flip it over and duplicate it in the other side,l and replicate the cutout. The. Whip up some dual exhaust business. Wish luck


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Fun fact, the term “ricer” comes from the Japanese automobile manufacturing plants used to burn rice as their energy source to manufacture automobiles. Hence rice burner.
W H A T I N T H E ********** are you talking about?

It's a derogatory and racist term meant as an insult to Japanese motorcycles and cars....You know because they eat a lot of rice in Japan which makes them different from us....And much of America's working class and bike/car culture had a huge problem with Japan, and Japanese imports, especially back in the 60s when scars from thay whole WWII issue were still fresh.

Had nothing to do with how the manufacturing establishment fueled itself. Nor have I ever seen any proof that rice was used as biofuel for factories.
 

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W H A T I N T H E *********** are you talking about?

It's a derogatory and racist term meant as an insult to Japanese motorcycles and cars....You know because they eat a lot of rice in Japan which makes them different from us....And much of America's working class and bike/car culture had a huge problem with Japan, and Japanese imports, especially back in the 60s when scars from thay whole WWII issue were still fresh.

Had nothing to do with how the manufacturing establishment fueled itself. Nor have I ever seen any proof that rice was used as biofuel for factories.
Okay. You don’t have to be a *erk, I was clearly misinformed. There’s a lot more mature and polite ways to inform people of things you Wikipedia’d.


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