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Discussion Starter #1
Errors known:

Obd2 fail to read. "Error" message.

Windows don't roll up or down.

Left rear blinker and right front blink.
Other 2 do NOT.

Horn doesn't work.

Power steering message and airbag messages appear.

Gauges sweep initially and then gas gauge meter shows E with low fuel message even though there's about half a tank.

All power inside stays on when key is removed from ign even while door is ajar.

I checked all fuses and seem to be ok.
Checked relays and seem to be ok.

I think something shorted out or something. Or maybe a bad ground? BCM issue? Something's super messed up and never had this happen before.

Anyone have any clue as to why this is happening??



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Bad battery.
 

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Just went through YouTube and found out that it could be the top half of the fuse box..
Eh? For a "common problem" it's the first time I've heard of it in the 2 years+ hanging out here. The symptoms are that of a very confused BCM. Disconnecting the battery could do a lot for it or it might be "battery related" electrical problem.

A common problem is batteries reaching the end-of-life. For the original factory battery, that's around 2.5-3 years old. Diagnosing it isn't easy. It requires an expensive test unit. Simple voltmeter or load tests may not uncover it.

Another very common problem is a bad battery ground cable. GM has actually issued extended coverage for it. That's easy to check with a voltmeter. With the car running, check the voltage from the negative post on the battery to chassis ground. It shouldn't be much more than maybe 0.1V. Anything more then that, have it replaced.

I'm having a hard time believing it's a bad fuse box. It's nothing more than a series of connections. I'd want to know exactly what connection is going bad. I'd want to see a teardown of a bad unit before I'd buy into that theory. Between disconnecting the battery and moving the ground cable, there's ample opportunity for known issues to get "fixed" by replacing it.

One oddity of that YouTube: No mention is made of transferring the fuses and relays. And yet, I'd be surprised if the new fusebox came with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Eh? For a "common problem" it's the first time I've heard of it in the 2 years+ hanging out here. The symptoms are that of a very confused BCM. Disconnecting the battery could do a lot for it or it might be "battery related" electrical problem.

A common problem is batteries reaching the end-of-life. For the original factory battery, that's around 2.5-3 years old. Diagnosing it isn't easy. It requires an expensive test unit. Simple voltmeter or load tests may not uncover it.

Another very common problem is a bad battery ground cable. GM has actually issued extended coverage for it. That's easy to check with a voltmeter. With the car running, check the voltage from the negative post on the battery to chassis ground. It shouldn't be much more than maybe 0.1V. Anything more then that, have it replaced.

I'm having a hard time believing it's a bad fuse box. It's nothing more than a series of connections. I'd want to know exactly what connection is going bad. I'd want to see a teardown of a bad unit before I'd buy into that theory. Between disconnecting the battery and moving the ground cable, there's ample opportunity for known issues to get "fixed" by replacing it.

One oddity of that YouTube: No mention is made of transferring the fuses and relays. And yet, I'd be surprised if the new fusebox came with it.
So I finally got off work and after some time thinking about it, something clicked.. I went back to the car to quadruple tap the issue. Removed the fuse box, checked everything out again as far as the connector pins coming out of the box and re-mounted. But this time it actually tightened down just a tad more. Good the battery cable back up, went to crank and whadya know! It's alive again lol. I myself have never heard of that issue before but it is a possibility. I don't think it's a common problem as it stated in the video. Anywho.. when unmounting the fuse box and re-mounting, just make sure the connection is tight. Lesson learned.


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I had interior map and vanity lights, front left and rear right blinkers, trunk light and glove box light and my aftermarket sub all go out on me with no lights on the dash, dealer told me it was a blown circuit in the bcm and needed to be sent to factory to be replaced and reprogrammed, cost about $450.. I went to all sorts of mechanics and dealers to get 4 other opinions all saying the same thing :/ a bad fuse didn't blow when it should have and no one ever told me what connection failed causing the short but very similar symptoms without the dash lights lol

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