I just stuck this thread and updated my http://www.cruzetalk.com/forum/25-s...e-cabin-odors-sources-resolution-summary.html thread.
Just spin it down until it stops spinning. My cap goes through a tight spin and then gets an easy spin before stopping. I, too, like the idea of a click stop cap, but that's unfortunately not what we have in the Cruze.Does your new cap click when you put it back on or does it still go on without a click? I like to know if you need a new coolant tank or just a cap to get the click. I would like the click so I know the thing is on there all the way.
I'm on my second winter with the Buna o-ring. Over the summer I lost maybe a quarter inch of coolant (cold engine) but it drops faster in the winter. This o-ring doesn't seal as well when the tank is cold.Obermd & Others-
How long is the BUNA o-ring lasting? I think I'm currently leaking again out of the cap, with no other noticeable coolant losses. I think it's about 9 months on the BUNA ring.
I briefly scanned this post again, and I believe Obermd mentioned that he had to order more rings. Maybe it's a temperature thing. It's -2F today, and when I installed the battery tender jr, on the factory battery I noticed the coolant was low.
I have to dig for where I placed those rings, or order others. I don't have Viton to try, but it appears the BUNA ring may have a short lifetime if your in the Midwest Northern tundra temperatures (<0F).
Very few rubber compounds are resistant to glycol over the long term. The o-rings on the surge cap also have to deal with high temperatures, so my best guess is they do need to be replaced periodically.In the description of the viton ring listed on the oring store page, it says that it is not resistant to glycol based fluids. Does this include coolant? I always thought it was a glycol based fluid, or at least polyethylene glycol. Are those similar chemicals or different?
Purchase a small bottle of the GM florescent coolant dye. It will help you find the leak. These bottles are about $10.Thanks to those that replied. I am thinking I will probably fill it myself and see if I can figure out whether it is the water pump area or the tank. I would guess the tank since there is no visible evidence. While I know where plenty of gm dealerships are, and the one in hays seems to be decent, I have trouble trusting a dealership to keep from trying to make it as expensive of a visit as possible.
We've had reports of leaks at the water outlet. As far as I know they have all be actual cracks in the housing. Note there is a new design so you'll need to replace the hoses that connect there as well.anyone experiencing coolant loss due to the water outlet housing leaking?
This is proof that this is a design flaw and not a general manufacturing issue. Management's assumption that an o-ring can hold pressure in all scenarios is what destroyed the Challenger in 1986.I ordered the N70 o-ring (4.5mm) and it seems to have stopped the problem where coolant was boiling and vapor was escaping.
Tank appears to be holding pressure and I have not had to add coolant since. FYI, tank is a Dorman part.
GM has a coolant dye that dries where ever there's a leak. This is how I figured out it was my cap/tank seal.I got my 14 6MT with 20k miles back from the dealer yesterday, I think this is the third visit for coolant loss. Last time, it was the water pump and I got the burning coolant smell.
This time they had it hooked up to pressure three or four different times over nights and weekends, after driving and while cold, and could not get it to leak.
Based on this thread and the fact the cap is where the pressure was connected, I suggested they replace the cap and we'll see what that brings to the party. He did mention that the parts department has been going though a lot of caps (or maybe cap O rings), and he did not know that previously.
We have a 6 hour drive ahead of us this weekend so that will give it a chance to show me if the cap fixed it. I'll check the coolant reservoir surface tomorrow where the cap seals for defects before we take off.
I asked them what was next if this didn't solve it and they thought head gasket failed in a spot where the oil and coolant couldn't mix. Apparently, the converter burns hot enough that any traces of coolant in the cylinders is burned off before it reaches the end of the tailpipe. Not sure how many HG failures people have seen but hopefully we won't get to that point.
He may not be aware of it.I'll keep that in mind if I have more problems. It wasn't suggested by the service guy yet, which is a bit concerning.