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That was me. It took less than a minute for the dye to start flowing back into the coolant tank.
 

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I wonder if there's a high demand on the water outlets due to leaks?

Regarding the revised part number, it's likely if the part number changed then something functional changed with the part. If early parts were failing that could be why. Do you happen to have the two part numbers handy? The current part number listed through Cultrag is 55565334:

55565334 | WATER OUTLET | 2012 Chevrolet Cruze

For $21 it includes the coolant temp sensor, seems to be a decent value.

My part was: [FONT=arial, sans-serif]25193922 if you google image the other part number [/FONT]55565334[FONT=arial, sans-serif] I see a few threads from international message boards that seem to have a similar problem and needing replacement.[/FONT]
 
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Thanks for this writeup. Hoping this solves my issue. New Cap on left, old cap on right. Note the gasket on the old cap. Nice and deformed. Car only has 54,000 miles on it.

Product Auto part Machine Machine tool Metal
 

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Thanks for this writeup. Hoping this solves my issue. New Cap on left, old cap on right. Note the gasket on the old cap. Nice and deformed. Car only has 54,000 miles on it.

View attachment 174594

Does your new cap click when you put it back on or does it still go on without a click? I like to know if you need a new coolant tank or just a cap to get the click. I would like the click so I know the thing is on there all the way.
 

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Does your new cap click when you put it back on or does it still go on without a click? I like to know if you need a new coolant tank or just a cap to get the click. I would like the click so I know the thing is on there all the way.
Just spin it down until it stops spinning. My cap goes through a tight spin and then gets an easy spin before stopping. I, too, like the idea of a click stop cap, but that's unfortunately not what we have in the Cruze.
 

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There's no click.

Only cap with a click that I know of is the gas cap ???
Last time I was at the dealer getting my water pump replaced I checked out a 2014 in the lobby of the dealer and I took the coolant cap off and put it back on and right when it was at the end of putting it back on it clicked and then you could not turn it anymore.
 

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Last time I was at the dealer getting my water pump replaced I checked out a 2014 in the lobby of the dealer and I took the coolant cap off and put it back on and right when it was at the end of putting it back on it clicked and then you could not turn it anymore.
Maybe you broke it. LOL.

Factory cap and new cap both had no click on my 2013. I took the factory cap off a few times before to inspect things.
 

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Last time I was at the dealer getting my water pump replaced I checked out a 2014 in the lobby of the dealer and I took the coolant cap off and put it back on and right when it was at the end of putting it back on it clicked and then you could not turn it anymore.
The surge tank was changed somewhere in 13 my and they have a 'indent' type feel just before the cap stops turning.....I suspect that is the 'click' you are asking about.

Not uncommon to run across running changes as a car/truck is continually updated as the build continues.
If you parked a 2011 next to a 2015 Cruze you would find lots of small physical differences.......and to drive one and then the other, you would notice NVH improvements as well as some driveability changes.
The way the biz is.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Actually, the caps on newer cars do click into place. Here's a video I took of a '14 (I think) in a showroom:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5bhRqbVZQE&feature=youtu.be

I believe all caps have the locking feature, but only the newer tanks have a stop high enough to engage the first of the two raised tabs on the cap, giving that click just before seating.
 

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Obermd & Others-

How long is the BUNA o-ring lasting? I think I'm currently leaking again out of the cap, with no other noticeable coolant losses. I think it's about 9 months on the BUNA ring.

I briefly scanned this post again, and I believe Obermd mentioned that he had to order more rings. Maybe it's a temperature thing. It's -2F today, and when I installed the battery tender jr, on the factory battery I noticed the coolant was low.

I have to dig for where I placed those rings, or order others. I don't have Viton to try, but it appears the BUNA ring may have a short lifetime if your in the Midwest Northern tundra temperatures (<0F).
 

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You didn't mention how low the coolant dropped.

It is normal to see it drop some as temperature falls (contraction) overnight but once up to operating temperature it often is back up to normal level.

Rob
 

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Obermd & Others-

How long is the BUNA o-ring lasting? I think I'm currently leaking again out of the cap, with no other noticeable coolant losses. I think it's about 9 months on the BUNA ring.

I briefly scanned this post again, and I believe Obermd mentioned that he had to order more rings. Maybe it's a temperature thing. It's -2F today, and when I installed the battery tender jr, on the factory battery I noticed the coolant was low.

I have to dig for where I placed those rings, or order others. I don't have Viton to try, but it appears the BUNA ring may have a short lifetime if your in the Midwest Northern tundra temperatures (<0F).
I'm on my second winter with the Buna o-ring. Over the summer I lost maybe a quarter inch of coolant (cold engine) but it drops faster in the winter. This o-ring doesn't seal as well when the tank is cold.
 

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The coolant dropped maybe two ribs based on the markings on the side of the bottle. Final level before filling was level with the top of the lower outlet hose. It took maybe 2-3 cups to fill it back to the molded seal level of the tank.

I the top of the coolant cap above the lower o-ring was wetter than normal. Leading me to believe I'm venting again.

The water pump has had some dry coolant on it over the past year or so, but it would take a mechanic with a lot of patience to actually see it. Since the level stabilized after installing the ring last March I thought the pump was ok. I'm sure there's staining behind the pulley, I can see it with an inspection mirror, but there's not any on the timing cover, or a notable drip, so I think I may have issues asking for replacement.

I'll have to look at it again. I'm a little leery of taking it in for the pump, because I don't want anyone jacking on the oil pan to support the engine.

My 2012 still has the factory splash shield, and no recalls have been completed.

I wish I had a topside engine support and I'd do the water pump myself this spring. Still trying to figure out what to use, vs. a floor jack on the oil pan. I believe this could easily cause an oil leak at the gasket.

Anyway sorry for getting off topic..

It's time to seriously look for the new BUNA rings. I should have put them in the glovebox!
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Carbon, I believe a small amount of venting is normal when it gets really cold out. The reason being, as the temperature drops more and more at night, the coolant contracts more as well, sucking more air in though the cap. When the engine warms up there is now more air in the system compared to when the car sits over night in warmer weather and the pressure rises enough to vent the excess.

I am using the Viton o-ring still and I noticed the same thing last week when it got bitter cold at night; my tank vent had condensation in it. I dried the tank throat, the vent and the underside of the cap, and since temps have been a little more reasonable the past week or so I have yet to see any more signs of venting.

Once the weather warms up a little in your area, try the same (take cap off and dry everything). If there's still venting going on with temps hovering just below freezing you may need a new o-ring. Note also that the VAST majority of people with a cap venting issue have coolant odors that enter the car while driving. If you are not smelling coolant in the car your cap and o-ring are likely doing OK.

If you have slow steady coolant loss over time the water pump is the #1 suspect. As Rob has pointed out before, a small amount of coolant weeping from the pump is considered normal, but shouldn't require frequent coolant top-ups. Maybe once/twice a year at most, down one bar or so. If you are seeing coolant residue behind the pulley it might need changing.
 

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In the description of the viton ring listed on the oring store page, it says that it is not resistant to glycol based fluids. Does this include coolant? I always thought it was a glycol based fluid, or at least polyethylene glycol. Are those similar chemicals or different?
 

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In the description of the viton ring listed on the oring store page, it says that it is not resistant to glycol based fluids. Does this include coolant? I always thought it was a glycol based fluid, or at least polyethylene glycol. Are those similar chemicals or different?
Very few rubber compounds are resistant to glycol over the long term. The o-rings on the surge cap also have to deal with high temperatures, so my best guess is they do need to be replaced periodically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
In the description of the viton ring listed on the oring store page, it says that it is not resistant to glycol based fluids. Does this include coolant? I always thought it was a glycol based fluid, or at least polyethylene glycol. Are those similar chemicals or different?
Here's a link to the product page:

4mm X 23mm V75 Viton O-ring Black [V4.00X023] : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

It states that the Viton o-rings are not compatible with glycol BRAKE fluids.

Here's a link to their fluid compatibility page:

Fluid Compatibility Chart : The O-Ring Store LLC, We make getting O-Rings easy!

If you scroll down the list to Glycols you'll notice that Viton (V) gets a "1" rating, or "Excellent", indicating less than 10% swell.

Also consider that the o-ring isn't really submerged and in constant contact with the coolant, more so with water vapor that condenses at the top of the tank (the actual glycol in the coolant doesn't evaporate much).
 

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So after a couple of weeks of single digit weather in the mornings my coolant level has dropped half a rib. This is about what I expected.
 
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