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I ordered the N70 o-ring (4.5mm) and it seems to have stopped the problem where coolant was boiling and vapor was escaping.
Tank appears to be holding pressure and I have not had to add coolant since. FYI, tank is a Dorman part.
This is proof that this is a design flaw and not a general manufacturing issue. Management's assumption that an o-ring can hold pressure in all scenarios is what destroyed the Challenger in 1986.
 

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cufarmer-

Does a standard cap fit the dorman tank, or do they have their own cap design? I believe there tanks are sold with the cap, and with some of their products they redesign the cap as well.

I've been going through 1 ring every year. If I ever have to replace the tank, I'm thinking Dorman for this, vs. taking another shot with OEM.
 

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I had the severe bubbling coolant in the reservoir after the engine was turned off (temperature gauge and all else were fine during running). I discovered that my reservoir throat had a burr (distortion) that made anyone (i.e. my GM mechanic today) think that the cap was at its bottom of travel/tightening. NOT SO. Turning the cap past this false stop gave me 3 more turns before the O-ring was engaged and sealed -- BUBBLING COOLANT PROBLEM GONE!! Caution - never remove the cap when the coolant is hot. Thanks all for focusing me onto the reservoir cap and throat.
 

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I got my 14 6MT with 20k miles back from the dealer yesterday, I think this is the third visit for coolant loss. Last time, it was the water pump and I got the burning coolant smell.

This time they had it hooked up to pressure three or four different times over nights and weekends, after driving and while cold, and could not get it to leak.

Based on this thread and the fact the cap is where the pressure was connected, I suggested they replace the cap and we'll see what that brings to the party. He did mention that the parts department has been going though a lot of caps (or maybe cap O rings), and he did not know that previously.

We have a 6 hour drive ahead of us this weekend so that will give it a chance to show me if the cap fixed it. I'll check the coolant reservoir surface tomorrow where the cap seals for defects before we take off.

I asked them what was next if this didn't solve it and they thought head gasket failed in a spot where the oil and coolant couldn't mix. Apparently, the converter burns hot enough that any traces of coolant in the cylinders is burned off before it reaches the end of the tailpipe. Not sure how many HG failures people have seen but hopefully we won't get to that point.
 

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I got my 14 6MT with 20k miles back from the dealer yesterday, I think this is the third visit for coolant loss. Last time, it was the water pump and I got the burning coolant smell.

This time they had it hooked up to pressure three or four different times over nights and weekends, after driving and while cold, and could not get it to leak.

Based on this thread and the fact the cap is where the pressure was connected, I suggested they replace the cap and we'll see what that brings to the party. He did mention that the parts department has been going though a lot of caps (or maybe cap O rings), and he did not know that previously.

We have a 6 hour drive ahead of us this weekend so that will give it a chance to show me if the cap fixed it. I'll check the coolant reservoir surface tomorrow where the cap seals for defects before we take off.

I asked them what was next if this didn't solve it and they thought head gasket failed in a spot where the oil and coolant couldn't mix. Apparently, the converter burns hot enough that any traces of coolant in the cylinders is burned off before it reaches the end of the tailpipe. Not sure how many HG failures people have seen but hopefully we won't get to that point.
GM has a coolant dye that dries where ever there's a leak. This is how I figured out it was my cap/tank seal.
 

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We drove the car around 8 hours on a road trip this weekend after the cap was replaced and the level remained the same. I didn't have time to inspect the surface finish where the cap O ring seals.

That was a lot more drive time than it usually took to show up before, considering my wife drives maybe 3 miles each way to work. So I'm hopeful the O ring just hardened up and that was behind the problem. if so, I can round up a viton O ring somewhere and it may last longer than the standard NBR.
 

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GM has a coolant dye that dries where ever there's a leak. This is how I figured out it was my cap/tank seal.
I'll keep that in mind if I have more problems. It wasn't suggested by the service guy yet, which is a bit concerning.
 

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I'll keep that in mind if I have more problems. It wasn't suggested by the service guy yet, which is a bit concerning.
He may not be aware of it.
 

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I'm not sure if I'm having this particular problem or not, but my cap is definitely loose, and a quick inspection showed the flat siding on the O-Ring, so I went ahead and ordered one of the Viton rings.
 

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I've found that using a little glycerin on the o-ring goes a long way to getting these "buna replacement rings" to fit without having to stress the cap when screwing it back on.

I'm still using the larger Buna ones mentioned in this thread. After lubing the gasket before screwing it down I've now gone 18-20 months without replacing this seal.

The solution works for me, but for some reason I've gone through seals. About one every 12 months or so.

I'm not sure if this weird problem ever got fixed with latter GEN1 Cruzes. You don't see as much action with these threads as you did when the issue was more prevalent.
 

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This thread looks like it may help solve my coolant loss reappearance. I had sooo many issues with coolant loss, fluid odours in the car, heat loss, etc, etc. Had water pump and heater core replaced while still under warranty, and they put some tape/tar on the drainage tube of the overflow tank. I'm now having coolant boiling in the overflow tank, coolant loss and car overheating, but not regularly. Frustrating when I can't seem to replicate a cooling event to my mechanic.

I have thought about replacing both the tank and cap, which now seems to be likely culprit.

Anyone ordered these items in Canada? Really don't want to be ad with the ridiculous cross border shipping we now face
 

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Rockauto does ship to Canada competitively. The O-rings we were ordering for the coolant reservoir cap were from a company out of ID If I recall correctly.

The oring store.com or something like that.

Also make sure that with the engine cold, and off you remove the white bleeder valve on the passenger side coolant tank near the top. When doing this have the coolant bottle full greater than the plastic welded seam. You'll see fluid pulled in.

You may have a venting problem.
 

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185K on a cruze diesel and I just started to smell some coolant smell after driving from the engine compartment. I'm going to try these fixes to see if it will mend the problem. Thank you.
 

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So the wife drove Chicago to Indy - solo - for the first time ever in our 2015 1LT 1.4L Cruze (bought new, currently 35,3xx I think) and sends me this text message:
282994


Just what I wanted to see when I'm at home with the kids, 180 miles away. Luckily we have relatives nearby, and there was easy access to some coolant for the ride home. She made it home safely, and refilled the coolant shortly thereafter. After leaving Indy, the needle never made it past halfway, but upon inspection, I saw there was coolant apparently leaking from the not-quite-accessible water pump, and had gotten on the accessory belt etc., not to mention a fair amount on the garage floor. My '99 Tacoma has not has such issues (knock on wood) so it has taken over family transport duties.

I'm not exactly clear on the warranty status from what I've read here and elsewhere, as we are past our 3/36 bumper to bumper, but still under the 5/60 powertrain warranty. Plus I've read about the extended 10/150 warranty for certain year water pumps. I called a local Chevy dealer who of course not only hadn't heard of Cruze water pump issues but also said there was no special coverage either. No, I won't be taking the car there. It will likely be going back to the dealer of purchase, but they don't have any time open until next Monday.
 

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HELP PLEASE!!!
I have a 2016 Cruze Limited LT with 118,300+ HW miles. I just got the water pump (I think) and thermostat replaced at the dealer, oh and the purge valve. It was running like a dream. I got my oil changed and of course, they bring up more work that needs to be done (that wasn't mentioned previously). One service, in particular, was the coolant reservoir needs to be replaced (but no rush, his words), that was a week ago. I just drove 50+ miles home from work, stopped to get gas and BOOM, WHITE SMOKE BILLOWING FROM MY HOOD. I immediately pull over and pop the hood, COOLANT EVERYWHERE! I have no clue what happened, or what to do now except take it back to the dealer.
 

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This is a great thread in identifying a problem and seeing the solutions to help fix it. Too bad my daughter's Cruze has the issue. Long story short, I:

a. Replaced the O-ring on the cap (saw yellowish crust on the cap)
b. Didn't see a decrease in the reservoir's fluid level after getting the Cruze up to operating speed
c. Didn't notice any leaks

So after my test run, the reservoir's level didn't change. I thought it would be less but, maybe I didn't run it long enough to make that difference. Anyways, after the test run and looking at the engine I noticed the sound where it seems like air and fluid are exchanging places.This lasted for over 3 or 4 minutes after turning the car off. I have a video that I can post, but, this site won't allow links in first posts. However, my phone was placed between the fan and engine and more toward the driver's side. I can only assume that I need to bleed off the air in the cooling system and will do so. But, could this sound be coming from any other areas/systems in my engine bay and/or is this sound normal?

Thanks in advance.
 
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