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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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This is a great thread in identifying a problem and seeing the solutions to help fix it. Too bad my daughter's Cruze has the issue. Long story short, I:

a. Replaced the O-ring on the cap (saw yellowish crust on the cap)
b. Didn't see a decrease in the reservoir's fluid level after getting the Cruze up to operating speed
c. Didn't notice any leaks

So after my test run, the reservoir's level didn't change. I thought it would be less but, maybe I didn't run it long enough to make that difference. Anyways, after the test run and looking at the engine I noticed the sound where it seems like air and fluid are exchanging places.This lasted for over 3 or 4 minutes after turning the car off. I have a video that I can post, but, this site won't allow links in first posts. However, my phone was placed between the fan and engine and more toward the driver's side. I can only assume that I need to bleed off the air in the cooling system and will do so. But, could this sound be coming from any other areas/systems in my engine bay and/or is this sound normal?

Thanks in advance.
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Post some more threads and put your video on YouTube and post that link here.

Start by introducing yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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I hope this thread helps some people rid their cars of coolant odors. Remember also that the Cruze water pump is a popular source of leaks and is now covered under an extended 10yr warranty.
Hi, please tell me more about this, I’ve had my water pump replaced twice and the third is leaking. Since my Cruze is only 7 years old, can I just go into Chevy and have it replaced for free? My second pump was installed from a different shop because I thought I was out of warranty. But it is still an oem pump, I don’t have to tell that to the dealership about that. Thanks!
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Hi, please tell me more about this, I’ve had my water pump replaced twice and the third is leaking. Since my Cruze is only 7 years old, can I just go into Chevy and have it replaced for free? My second pump was installed from a different shop because I thought I was out of warranty. But it is still an oem pump, I don’t have to tell that to the dealership about that. Thanks!
Service Bulletin - NHTSA
 

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Hi everyone,

My wife purchased a 2020 Trax LS back in March and I looked at the coolant tank. It is different than the one on the 1st Gen Cruze, same PSI rating and one thing I noticed, that surge tank does not have that little hole on the side like the Cruze does (red arrow below). I was always under the impression that my coolant smell was coming from coolant escaping through there constantly. So what would be the purpose of that little opening if the TRAX doesn't have it for the same engine? What would happen if we were to seal it off?
288894


Thank you!
 

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I purchased the M4x23 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 23 mm ID, 31 mm OD, 4 mm Width (Pack of 5) from Amazon. Is that the incorrect size? I wasn't able to slide it directly underneath base the of cap because it seems too small.

I filled up coolant tank after it was almost completely empty. Car didn't give me a warning. Drove 4 hours and it's already half empty again.

Link: M4x23 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 23 mm ID, 31 mm OD, 4 mm Width (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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I purchased the M4x23 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 23 mm ID, 31 mm OD, 4 mm Width (Pack of 5) from Amazon. Is that the incorrect size? I wasn't able to slide it directly underneath base the of cap because it seems too small.

I filled up coolant tank after it was almost completely empty. Car didn't give me a warning. Drove 4 hours and it's already half empty again.

Link: M4x23 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Round, Black, Viton, 23 mm ID, 31 mm OD, 4 mm Width (Pack of 5): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


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You may have other issues. Is your engine bay clean? Is there any evidence of leaks? Where if so?

These are three links in this thread that explain about the o-ring



 

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been having boiling coolant issues lately no engine overheat thinkdiag says coolant is 208C/226F range
just looked under hood the hose going to the surge tank and to the top of the water outlet the part that sits on top of the outlet doesnt have the plastic fittings on top its just the hose connected to the plastic tied on by a clamp im not sure if this is the original model but i think a mechanic may have broke it and quick fixed it without telling me.
 

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this is what mine looks like someone did this to mine i would know if i made a fix like this. hasnt leaked but i dont know if the device that sits on top regulates coolant flow back to the surge tank. i feel my tank could be warped or bad.Its my second tank has about 80,0000 miles of use on it replaced the cap 2 months ago just started leaking a couple weeks ago out the overflow side. I think its time for a new tank and maybe those o rings thinking of purchasing the 4mm and 4.5
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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View attachment 295177

this is what mine looks like someone did this to mine i would know if i made a fix like this. hasnt leaked but i dont know if the device that sits on top regulates coolant flow back to the surge tank. i feel my tank could be warped or bad.Its my second tank has about 80,0000 miles of use on it replaced the cap 2 months ago just started leaking a couple weeks ago out the overflow side. I think its time for a new tank and maybe those o rings thinking of purchasing the 4mm and 4.5
The picture is too small.
 

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The picture is too small.
I figured it out. I put a dorman reservoir hose on it. Replaced with new oem part for peace of mind knowing oem is on the finicky coolant system. Found the leak on my reservoir tank. It was right on the inside portion of the tip sticking out for hose. It started to hairline crack on the inside then it finally popped and exposed bubbles coming out of it. Dorman tank so it already had the metal tabs in it but it was 80,000 miles old it was warped and time for new one. I put new cap on old reservoir from a new Dorman tank and there was so much play when seated on old tank. The boiling/venting problem went away as soon as new tank was installed :)
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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Glad you found the issue. That and most of the other cooling issues are well documented here on the forum. I would keep an eye on the system for a while as usually there is collateral damage to other connecting parts when the system is messed with.
 

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2016 Chevy Cruise LT 1.4 L sedan
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Many members are experiencing coolant loss over time and venting through the reservoir (surge tank) cap. Symptoms include coolant loss and coolant odors both outside and inside the car.

The reservoir vent channel it this plastic piece on the left side of the cap:



If your cap is venting you will see moisture build-up under this channel and/or white and orange deposits. This post only covers issues surrounding coolant loss through this vent channel.

If you are losing coolant vapor through the vent channel the vapor can get into the car through the HVAC intake. This is supposed to be sealed from the engine compartment, but many cars exhibit a gap in the cowl seal right near the coolant reservoir. When coolant vapor exits the tank it is free to pass into the HVAC intake through this gap. Here's a crude cross section diagram of how this happens:



The foam gasket between the cowl cover and cowl tub doesn't seal properly on many cars, allowing coolant vapor into the car. With the hood open you can check your car by shining a flashlight under the cowl near the tank and looking for light through the open grate in the cowl cover. Credit for this information must go to member BlueSkyMontana, who worked extremely patiently with his dealer's service department to figure this out.

I personally had to replace my reservoir since there was a defect in the throat opening. The rough spot in the throat made it impossible for the o-ring in the cap to seal properly. Here's the throat:



And here's the defect as good as I could capture it:





STEP ONE of curing your coolant venting issues will be to inspect the throat of your reservoir and make sure it is smooth and defect free. No o-ring will seal properly to a rough/damaged surface.

Even after replacing my reservoir and cap I was still getting random coolant odors and some slow coolant loss.

At the 2014 Lordstown meet I showed a few people something I was up to. I installed a thicker o-ring in the surge tank cap that dramatically increased the seal between the cap and tank. With this new o-ring I actually ran my surge tank slightly over-filled (coolant level ~1/8" above the cold fill line) and experienced no signs of venting... my tank vent was bone dry.

The problem seems to be with the lower o-ring in the cap taking a compression set (deforming) over time and allowing coolant vapor to escape. In this picture you can see how the round profile of the o-ring can change over time and offer less sealing capacity:



The o-ring on the right is after being removed from the car, the one on the left is the same o-ring fresh out of the package. To be clear, this is the lower o-ring in the reservoir cap, the one at the top of the photo:



Replacing this o-ring with a thicker version works, but replacing it with one made from a superior material also works. The original o-ring is most likely made from Buna-N, a popular material for o-rings, and measures 23mm Inner Diameter and 4.0mm thick.

This o-ring is also 23mm ID x 4.0mm thick but is made from Viton, a slightly stiffer material that resists taking a compression set. This is the o-ring I'm currently using with great success and I recommend as a first try for anyone with venting issues:


Some people have a reservoir that has an extremely loose cap fit, meaning there is very little compression of the cap o-ring as the cap is screwed into place. Here's a video I shot of a brand new '14 LT in my local dealer's showroom:


If you have a very loose cap fit and the 4.0mm Viton o-ring doesn't fix your cap venting (i.e. you still get traces of moisture under the vent channel), you may wish to try a thicker 4.5mm Buna-N o-ring:


This 4.5mm o-ring may be tight to install, so I recommend wiping a little bit of coolant on it before installing the cap for the first time.

I recommend ordering one of each since the Buna-N part is so cheap. In fact, ordering more than one of each is ideal since the shipping cost is likely to exceed the value of the o-rings, and you'll have a spare in case you somehow damage one getting it installed.

Lots of members, many who don't even know who they are, have allowed their coolant levels to drop to a level where they stabilize. As long as this level is safely above the coolant outlet in the bottom of the surge tank this seems to be working OK. The issue here is the reduced pressure in the cooling system will effectively lower the coolant boiling temperature and risk excessive boiling in the hotter parts of the cylinder head and maybe even the turbocharger. Excessive boiling can lead to poor metal temperature control, allowing hot spots to form and increasing the potential for damaging levels of heat cycling of the metal.

This lowered boiling point will be of even greater concern to anyone living at higher altitudes.

The Cruze cooling system should operate properly fully topped up. A reservoir is properly filled when the car is parked on a level surface, the engine is cold, and the coolant level is at the highest rib on the bottom half of the tank. This rib has an arrow pointing to it, indicating it as the cold fill line:



Thanks to @obermd for this photo.

I would also like to point out that I still had coolant odors under the hood after getting my reservoir and cap figured out. I had to replace the small steam hose that connects the reservoir to the water outlet on the cylinder head. This is covered in more detail in CruzeEcoBlueTopaz's thread here:


I hope this thread helps some people rid their cars of coolant odors. Remember also that the Cruze water pump is a popular source of leaks and is now covered under an extended 10yr warranty.

Good luck, and leave your feedback if you try a new o-ring for your reservoir cap. :)
This might be one of my issues, although I have no idea what the true problem is. I have a 2016 Cruze 1.4L LT. It started over a year ago when my car first overheated. Found a leak in the radiator upper inlet coolant bypass hose. Fixed that. Still leaked. The housing itself was cracked. Replaced that. My dad, when connecting the hoses back, unknowingly tightened one too tight. Drove for a day, overheated again. Found the he had broken the end of the plastic into the hose. Fixed that. After that, it has continually overheated. Slowly at first, maybe every two or three weeks. Then every week, then everyday. Took it to a mechanic. He replaced the radiator, the thermostat, the water pump, and hoses. Drove it for about a week, maybe two, and it overheated again! Took it back to the mechanic, and all he had to say was “get rid of it. Terrible car. I could look at it for you, but I’ll guarantee you’ll be back next month. So I’ve babied it since then. At first, I could drive it maybe 3 - 4 days without it over heating, then boom, it overheats again. Losing coolant. But I can find no leaks. Then it will overheat everyday on short trips, maybe 5 miles. Then it won’t overheat for 3 - 4 days….running the air conditioner as well. Then I’ll make a short trip, maybe a mile, and it over heats again! Noticed a leak this time. The reservoir tank had a crack in the bottom, so I replaced that. Still overheated. I then replaced one of the sensors. Still overheated. Took to the auto parts store and had them run a diagnostics check. Came up with two errors. One was insufficient coolant flow, the other was a sensor was stuck at -40 degrees, and had high voltage. Herein lies the relation to your post. I read that not bleeding the radiator may cause it to overheat. So as I’m taking the cap off the tank, I noticed the o ring on the cap, the big one, was really loose and the small one was almost flat. This is a brand new tank. So I got the old cap out and looked at it. It’s o rings looked perfectly sized. So I switched them. Not only did doing both of those things not stop the overheating problem, it is worse now. I noticed in the link about the caps that the o rings in the good cap in the photo looked loose, just like my new one. Is that how they’re supposed to fit? I saw tonight when I got home it was losing water from that vent on the top of the tank. I’m at my wits end as to what to fix next. Having the other sensor replaced tomorrow, but somehow don’t think that’s the problem. My car runs smooth, idles good, and the oil is clear. What, in your opinion, should be my next step?
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
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To Blue angel. The links in post 116 are not working. I'm not able to find the specific o rings you linked to.
Do you have a part number?
The OP has not been online here since May of 2021 so it may be a long wait. Also it would be better to use the reply button as I did to you or to at least use the pager function by typing @Blue Angel

I see the link in this post: FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir has died, but there is another one here: FIX: Coolant Odors/Coolant Loss From Reservoir that me be what you are looking for.
 
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