FIX: Excessive Moisture/Condensation/Frost on Windows
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Haha... I forgot to mention a very basic but very important point in my thread:
You can't watch the recirculation flaps move if you're in defroster mode!
You have to have the vent selector set to anything but defroster mode to get the recirc flaps to move. The HVAC system will automatically go to the fresh air position and stay there if the defroster mode is selected, regardless of which recirc mode you've selected.
Will update original post.
You can't watch the recirculation flaps move if you're in defroster mode!
You have to have the vent selector set to anything but defroster mode to get the recirc flaps to move. The HVAC system will automatically go to the fresh air position and stay there if the defroster mode is selected, regardless of which recirc mode you've selected.
Will update original post.
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Thanks, got it. Disregard my PM if that's the same document you were referring to.
Same document....simply put, if it is not due to the bled door issue, you are screwed. If it is the blend door fix that you have come up with, then the owner is fine.
This also is affecting all the TRAX suv's but not the Buick Verano. Which means that since the Buick shares the same platform as the Cruze, it all leads back to the 1.4 Liter motor. The Buick uses a much larger displacement motor and it has no issues. In fact, it has great heat. My brother has one.
This also is affecting all the TRAX suv's but not the Buick Verano. Which means that since the Buick shares the same platform as the Cruze, it all leads back to the 1.4 Liter motor. The Buick uses a much larger displacement motor and it has no issues. In fact, it has great heat. My brother has one.
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I just rented a Verano for a week long training trip to Toronto. Yes, the car heats up very quick. It also burns more fuel.
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I checked mine today. It was offset so on fresh air mode, the fresh air door was only open a few mm and the recirc door was closed. when changing modes, the fresh air door opened then closed to the same position while the recirculate door opened.
I tried the fuse reset and it was still wrong after the self-calibration so I turned the gear by hand to align the doors properly and it seems to work now, although I'll be re-checking it in a week or two to make sure it stays that way.
Seeing as how the fresh air door never opened more than a couple mm, a lot of things make a LOT of sense now. My car always smelled dusty in fresh air mode, and once the car was hot, I could never get cool air coming in from outside. I figured it was a really bad case of heatsoak, but now I see that I was never getting any notable amount of air from outside in the first place.
I went for a brief drive and everything smells so much better. Fresh air makes such a big difference.
I tried the fuse reset and it was still wrong after the self-calibration so I turned the gear by hand to align the doors properly and it seems to work now, although I'll be re-checking it in a week or two to make sure it stays that way.
Seeing as how the fresh air door never opened more than a couple mm, a lot of things make a LOT of sense now. My car always smelled dusty in fresh air mode, and once the car was hot, I could never get cool air coming in from outside. I figured it was a really bad case of heatsoak, but now I see that I was never getting any notable amount of air from outside in the first place.
I went for a brief drive and everything smells so much better. Fresh air makes such a big difference.
Checked mine today, mine was just the opposite... going to recirc mode the gear doesn't move much and still stays partially open. I manually found a medium ground so both modes are acceptable but the motor doesn't seem to move the gear enough. Does pulling the fuse and making it relearn resolve this? I had the hvac unit updated last year for an unrelated problem of the sun load which there is a tsb for on bright days.
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Should. But if there's a mechanical issue, it won't fix that.
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I'd also like to point out that wet floormats will have an effect. If you get in with a bunch of snow on your feet and it melts and saturates your mats, the moisture will rise and cloud up your windows and eventually freeze if it's cold enough outside. This is one reason why I don't use the rubber floormats(or weathertechs) in the winter. All that snow melts and just leaves puddles of water on your floor after you turn your car off.
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What's the alternative? If you track snow in, the same thing will happen regardless of what floor mats you have. The rubber mats just make it easier to dump the snow/water.
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I'm not sure. This is the condition the dealer can fix through "re-programming", whatever that involves. If pulling the fuse has the same affect as disconnecting the battery for extended periods, I can say with some confidence it won't help. I had my battery disconnected several times leading up to the discovery.
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It would seem that re-programming the HVAC has cured this issue for several people in the past. I believe the HVAC controls are to blame when the actuator has insufficient travel.
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I have to agree. In my opinion, keeping moisture out of the mats is easier when you can dump them out.
Though keeping sources of moisture out of the car will help, if the root cause is a lack of fresh air through inoperative recirc flaps, your car will freeze up no matter HOW dry your floor mats are.
Isn't there or shouldn't there be a TSB so that the dealer can correct this problem?
My late built Diesel has been doing this here in So Cal ever since I bought it and the dealer has no clue how to correct it!
Regards,
Derrel
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I had this problem most of this past winter with my Cruze Diesel. It only appeared to happen half-way through the winter however. I'm hoping this is the issue. I'll be taking a look at it tomorrow and if the issue is present, I'll be taking it to me dealer for re-programming.
EDIT: Checked out the flaps today after work and they are moving fine. I guess it's something else...
Just to clear things up, circulating the air is what fogs up the windows, correct? Dragging the fresh air from outside (even if it's humid) will help remove the foggy windows?
EDIT: Checked out the flaps today after work and they are moving fine. I guess it's something else...
Just to clear things up, circulating the air is what fogs up the windows, correct? Dragging the fresh air from outside (even if it's humid) will help remove the foggy windows?
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Assuming the outside air is cold, it's not going to have much moisture. And once it warms up in the car, it will be quite dry.
But if you're talking about a day at 80F and 80% humidity, uh, no. The outside air will have a ton of moisture that will need to be wrung out of it.
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Absolutely. As soon as I corrected the position of the flaps my car defrosted almost immediately.
However, like ChevyGuy says, if the outside air is already too moist and your windows are fogging up, the only way to correct that will be to run the AC to dry the air out. The Cruze automatically switches on the AC when the selector is moved to full windshield defrost for this very reason, as do most cars.
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Have you been able to verify the position of the flaps is correct? Check the videos I posted if you haven't already. With the cabin air filter removed the flaps are easy to see with a flashlight.
If it is extremely humid outside the only way to defrost will be to use the AC. If it's happening on days that are not really humid you likely have an issue.
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