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I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze... just 6 months old. I am getting huge amounts of condensation on my outside windshield, just above the air vents. The opening in those dash vents blow air-conditioned cold air onto the windshield. The only way I can control it is to keep a folded up bath towel laying on top of the vents. Any other kind of towel isn't thick enough. I've been to my Chevy dealer. He said they ran some diagnostic tests that did not come up with any errors. The condensation is HUGE, and it's happening when it's humid. I've never had a car that does this. There doesn't seem to be any control whatsoever with those dash/windshield vents. No matter what direction I set the vents to (feet, upper combo of both), the same amount of air whooshes up through those vents. It's a nightmare... I already spoke to someone at Chevy Customer Care. They're the ones who set me up with today's appointment. Any suggestions?
 

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However they designed the HVAC diverter system, it leaks a little bit of air through that windshield vent. I think they all do that, and I don't know that there is a fix. Maybe it was intentionally designed that way to keep the windshield from fogging up on the inside. It is really annoying on humid evenings though.
 

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Mine does something similar. Even using the wipers only gets rid of it for a few seconds and it immediately returns. I have resorting to blasting the heat and rolling down the windows when it happens almost every morning on my commute. Also, don't know if you ever noticed but if you put it on defrost and turn the ac off, it still blast conditioned air, unless it's on a hot setting


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Same thing with me about the wipers. It gets rid of the condensation slightly, but comes right back. Using the windshield-wiper fluid helps a little. We shouldn't have to resort to putting a defrost or defog (which requires a warmer setting) when it's warm and humid outside. And yes, I also noticed that shutting off the AC & using defrost that there's still cold air unless the hot setting is on. When the AC is on, there shouldn't be so much air coming out of those vents near the windshield. Besides us, there's got to be other people going through this. Chevy should do a recall and have this fixed. It's not good when you can't see out of your windows on a humid day just because you're trying to get some comfort from your AC.
 

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Also, don't know if you ever noticed but if you put it on defrost and turn the ac off, it still blast conditioned air, unless it's on a hot setting
Yeah, all modern cars run the AC compressor when defrost is selected and it's above 36-37F outside.
 

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You can try the HVAC Reset outlined in this post up thread. While that conversation was about the recirculating flappers, the process resets all flappers - including the ones that control the ducts. It's worth a shot.
 

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Found this thread. Good information for sure, thanks! Only thing is I checked my HVAC flaps and they work as advertised but this morning. It was 55 out, felt great going to the gym. All was well, drove the 25 miles to the gym with just fresh air on. Came out to the car an hour later after working out and the windshield and back window were fogged up. Took a good bit of driving with defrost on to clear. The back window I used the defogger and it cleared up. So it seems that my flaps are working like they are supposed to but there is still an issue.

We have not had any rain for a few days, the inside of the car is dry and it is garaged over night. So now to troubleshoot why I get the condensation on the windshield like that.
 

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You can try the HVAC Reset outlined in this post up thread. While that conversation was about the recirculating flappers, the process resets all flappers - including the ones that control the ducts. It's worth a shot.
I just tried that today. Same amount of air is coming up through the windshield vents... even when I choose the pointing to the floor button. I was at my Chevy dealer last Friday and was told everything checks out fine. No error codes coming up. I am a woman in my 60's and I hope I'm not getting the runaround. Thanks for the suggestion though. :)
 

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Thanks for the great info and videos!

Decided to go check mine out since my 2011 1.4L has always seemed to have this problem. I just thought it was normal.

Low and behold regardless if in fresh-air or recirculation mode my recirculation flap is suck open, and my fresh-air flap is stuck closed. While in recirculation mode I manually turned the actuating gear downward all the way, but that didn't solve the problem :(

I didn't read the note at the end of your post until now (about how when in defrost mode it will default to fresh-air mode) unfortunately, but regardless as I was testing this while defrost was on my fresh-air flap still wasn't opening.

Unfortunate thing is that this most definitely has been an issue since initially buying the car, but my warranty is now up.

EDIT - Oddly enough though I noticed (as I did about 25k ago while changing the cabin air filter) that there were some leaves and other outside elements in my cabin air filter. Wouldn't this be free of that stuff if the fresh-air flap was stuck closed?
 

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From reading the 2013 service manual:

The Air Recirculation Door Actuator (as well as the Air Temperature Door Actuator and the Mode Door Actuator) is a 4 phase stepper motor. I don't see any limit switch. However, from reading the text, it seems that the system does sense the range of motion end points - probably by monitoring the motor and detecting when it stalls. (There is a DTC code for stalled motor.)

While programming via a scan tool is preferred, it is possible to program it manually. This is the same for "manual" systems and "automatic" (climate control?) systems.


  • Clear all DTCs
  • Turn off car
  • Pull the HVAC control module fuse (F17 in the instrument panel)
  • Wait at least 10 seconds
  • Install fuse
  • Start car
  • Wait at least 40 seconds for self-calibration
  • If possible, check for any codes set by self-calibration failure

But we still have the question on how things get fowled up. I don't think pulling the battery would do it as it looks like it would just re-calibrate itself. Perhaps it's changing the HVAC controls before the calibration is complete. I also wonder about the possibility of leaf litter jamming the doors and giving a false range of motion. Or maybe the data gets corrupted somehow. I do find it odd that it opened the fresh air door when recirculate was commended. Unless it cycles when run past it's normal operating limits it would almost seem like the motor would have to run backwards.
I know it's a long time since you posted this but is there anyway you can specify where the HVAC control module fuse is? If the whole turning the cog wheel down solution doesn't fix it I'd like to take a look at your idea, and if not that, I've heard disconnecting the battery and waiting a bit fixed it for some people. Is that possible, and if so why? Would I need a new battery or..

Thanks!
 
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