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Flashing check engine light

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I was driving tonight and accelerating up a hill at about 3/4 throttle when my check engine light began flashing for about 20 seconds then left. after everything seemed to be fine however my transmission has always shifted a little rough downshifting. As this is my first car I just assumed this was normal. I drove a little bit later and tried a little Italian tune up. When at full throttle or near jt when my car is at about 4 thousand rpm it starts to jitter a bit like a little shake that feels like it’s from the transmission And the rpm’s flutter a little bit. I just replaced the engine about 2 months ago so I know it isn’t an issue with that. from a cold start when you first drive at about 20 km per hour a little click wound comes from the transmission and I can feel it through the gas pedal, I am now wondering if this was an early sign of my transmission failing. Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas as to what this could be. im so done with this car I have had nothing but problems with it but I can’t get rid of it cause it was my grandparents car. Anyone have any ideas what this issue could be?
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When were the plugs and coil rack last changed ?
 

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A flashing CEL usually indicates a severe misfire is happening and is dumping fuel to the exhaust system.

Check the plugs and go from there. Inspect the coil for signs of damage, a bad coil is rare, there is no must change by XX,XXX miles for them. Many will say to change plugs at 60K or so but in the 2011 and 2012 owners manual it shows a change interval of 100,000 on them for the iridium plugs. I would bet that if the engine was swapped then the plugs were just transferred over with the engine so who knows how many miles are actually on the plugs. They are about $10 USD each so its not that much to swap them unless you have to pay labor. A shop will probably charge $150 USD or so for labor. Gotta pay for 1 hour of shop time even though they will be done in 30 minutes or less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update
I scanned the engine codes and nothing came up no codes under transmission either. I check the freeze frame codes and the last misfire that was recorded was from before my new engine was put in. I’m not sure if it’s just the computer sucks and didn’t record a misfire or what is happening because a flashing check engine light generally indicates a misfire. I took the car for a short drive around the block and pushed it a little bit and it didn’t shake at high engine speeds like it did the other night when the light first began to flash. I did get one code that did read which was b101e which said if for security so I don’t see how that could be the issue. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
 

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I just replaced the engine about 2 months ago...
Seems very odd to me that there's no corresponding misfire information in the freeze-frame data; I'm not aware of any diagnostic that will cause a flashing MIL other than catalyst-damaging misfire detection. Regardless, did you do a CASE learn on the new engine? If not, that has been known to cause false misfire detection at high engine speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seems very odd to me that there's no corresponding misfire information in the freeze-frame data; I'm not aware of any diagnostic that will cause a flashing MIL other than catalyst-damaging misfire detection. Regardless, did you do a CASE learn on the new engine? If not, that has been known to cause false misfire detection at high engine speeds.
I’m not sure my mechanic put it in and did all the work he doesn’t speak great English so I didn’t ask many questions. If he didn’t do all he now could I do one my self?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you don't have the appropriate scan tool, you can't. Even if you do, you might not do it right unless you know exactly how. I suggest taking it to a dealer.
I have a high end snap on scan tool for the weekend I am borrowing but I don’t know how to do it. I will just take it to the dealer I guess. It almost seems to me that it is an issue with the torque converter because when it’s cold on the first acceleration at 20 it makes a click and the shuddering which feels almost like a manual only happens at high engine speeds but only when it’s at operating temp. I’m not sure exactly what it is but I’m so done with this car it’s been nothing but problems and it’s not even at 100k miles
 

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I have a high end snap on scan tool for the weekend I am borrowing but I don’t know how to do it.
With the tool hooked up, see if you can find a function called "Crankshaft Position Variation Learn". There are any number of descriptions of how it's done online, but none of them emphasize how quickly you have to get off the gas pedal when the fuel cuts off during the learn. You need to do it like cutting a really good light at the dragstrip, except that you're releasing the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
With the tool hooked up, see if you can find a function called "Crankshaft Position Variation Learn". There are any number of descriptions of how it's done online, but none of them emphasize how quickly you have to get off the gas pedal when the fuel cuts off during the learn. You need to do it like cutting a really good light at the dragstrip, except that you're releasing the throttle.
What happened if I’m not fast enough?
 

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What happened if I’m not fast enough?
It's just part of making sure you get the best learn you can.

The misfire diagnostic works off of the crank position sensor signal. The CASE learn accounts for normal variations in the location of the crank teeth between different crankshafts. Since a different engine usually means a different crankshaft, you ought to do a learn to ensure the computer has the correct information.

The first one you'll probably let off the pedal too late, you'll know you were slow. Then you might get a couple of tries where you let off too early and you won't get the learn complete message. When you get one where you think you were too early but you get the learn complete message, that's the one you keep. Shut the car down and let the controller go to sleep, and you're good.

If you still see the flashing MIL, at least you'll know it's not this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's just part of making sure you get the best learn you can.

The misfire diagnostic works off of the crank position sensor signal. The CASE learn accounts for normal variations in the location of the crank teeth between different crankshafts. Since a different engine usually means a different crankshaft, you ought to do a learn to ensure the computer has the correct information.

The first one you'll probably let off the pedal too late, you'll know you were slow. Then you might get a couple of tries where you let off too early and you won't get the learn complete message. When you get one where you think you were too early but you get the learn complete message, that's the one you keep. Shut the car down and let the controller go to sleep, and you're good.

If you still see the flashing MIL, at least you'll know it's not this.
I’ll try this tomorrow. About 20 minutes ago we hooked up the code reader and did one pull to about 60km/h and it read misfires on every cylinder especially cylinder 4 which read 48 misfires on one pull. I am now regretting my life decisions on buying this car
 

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I’m just going to send it off to my mechanic and sell it. I have had enough with This car. Idk if anyone else has had a terrible experience but I have just had problem after problem
Sounds like a good Idea and I don't think your grandparents would want you spending all this time on their old car. I know my father questioned why I spent considerable amounts of money and time on and old MGA that he had and parked in the back of our garage after blowing the motor up . For me it was something to do after I got out of college. Ended up selling for $3500 just to get rid of it.
 

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I’m just going to send it off to my mechanic and sell it. I have had enough with This car. Idk if anyone else has had a terrible experience but I have just had problem after problem
I certainly understand your frustration, but if you have the right scan tool it won't cost anything but a little time to do the learn and it could solve the problem. Sure, it could be something else, but I've seen swapped cranks with no CASE learn cause false flashing MILs dozens of times. It needs to be warmed up, a/c off, in park, foot on the brake. Give it a try, you might be surprised.
 

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Yeah I second this. I'm sure the mechanic did a case relearn if he's worth a ****, but sometimes it doesn't take well or falls out off sync as the chain is worn in. It's a super easy procedure, and that scan tool can definitely do it. I personally love these little Ecotec motors, the ECU will usually tell you what the problem is with the DTC codes. Your saying there is no codes though? If there are any, list them all here so we can get a sense of what is going on. Also what was wrong with the old motor? What happened?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I’ll try the crank relearn when I have time today. I’m also wondering if it’s a problem with the engine computer. The only code that was thrown was a b101e which said it was for a security thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update. I think the gas I had in it was old cause it was last filled from a sketch gas station in the middle of no where and I got 89 so who knows how long that had been sitting there. My friend came over looked at the stats. He said it was likely something with the gas cause it would lean out as you accelerated to higher engine speeds and the computer was all over the place correcting it. We put shell 87 in to fill the tank and added injector cleaner as well as fuel stabilizer. Car seems to misfire a lot less still the odd one or two. It still bucks on hard accelerations so I think my transmission is done
 
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