Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner

Flashing check engine light

979 32
I was driving tonight and accelerating up a hill at about 3/4 throttle when my check engine light began flashing for about 20 seconds then left. after everything seemed to be fine however my transmission has always shifted a little rough downshifting. As this is my first car I just assumed this was normal. I drove a little bit later and tried a little Italian tune up. When at full throttle or near jt when my car is at about 4 thousand rpm it starts to jitter a bit like a little shake that feels like it’s from the transmission And the rpm’s flutter a little bit. I just replaced the engine about 2 months ago so I know it isn’t an issue with that. from a cold start when you first drive at about 20 km per hour a little click wound comes from the transmission and I can feel it through the gas pedal, I am now wondering if this was an early sign of my transmission failing. Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas as to what this could be. im so done with this car I have had nothing but problems with it but I can’t get rid of it cause it was my grandparents car. Anyone have any ideas what this issue could be?
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update
I scanned the engine codes and nothing came up no codes under transmission either. I check the freeze frame codes and the last misfire that was recorded was from before my new engine was put in. I’m not sure if it’s just the computer sucks and didn’t record a misfire or what is happening because a flashing check engine light generally indicates a misfire. I took the car for a short drive around the block and pushed it a little bit and it didn’t shake at high engine speeds like it did the other night when the light first began to flash. I did get one code that did read which was b101e which said if for security so I don’t see how that could be the issue. Any ideas on what could be wrong?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Seems very odd to me that there's no corresponding misfire information in the freeze-frame data; I'm not aware of any diagnostic that will cause a flashing MIL other than catalyst-damaging misfire detection. Regardless, did you do a CASE learn on the new engine? If not, that has been known to cause false misfire detection at high engine speeds.
I’m not sure my mechanic put it in and did all the work he doesn’t speak great English so I didn’t ask many questions. If he didn’t do all he now could I do one my self?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you don't have the appropriate scan tool, you can't. Even if you do, you might not do it right unless you know exactly how. I suggest taking it to a dealer.
I have a high end snap on scan tool for the weekend I am borrowing but I don’t know how to do it. I will just take it to the dealer I guess. It almost seems to me that it is an issue with the torque converter because when it’s cold on the first acceleration at 20 it makes a click and the shuddering which feels almost like a manual only happens at high engine speeds but only when it’s at operating temp. I’m not sure exactly what it is but I’m so done with this car it’s been nothing but problems and it’s not even at 100k miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
With the tool hooked up, see if you can find a function called "Crankshaft Position Variation Learn". There are any number of descriptions of how it's done online, but none of them emphasize how quickly you have to get off the gas pedal when the fuel cuts off during the learn. You need to do it like cutting a really good light at the dragstrip, except that you're releasing the throttle.
What happened if I’m not fast enough?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's just part of making sure you get the best learn you can.

The misfire diagnostic works off of the crank position sensor signal. The CASE learn accounts for normal variations in the location of the crank teeth between different crankshafts. Since a different engine usually means a different crankshaft, you ought to do a learn to ensure the computer has the correct information.

The first one you'll probably let off the pedal too late, you'll know you were slow. Then you might get a couple of tries where you let off too early and you won't get the learn complete message. When you get one where you think you were too early but you get the learn complete message, that's the one you keep. Shut the car down and let the controller go to sleep, and you're good.

If you still see the flashing MIL, at least you'll know it's not this.
I’ll try this tomorrow. About 20 minutes ago we hooked up the code reader and did one pull to about 60km/h and it read misfires on every cylinder especially cylinder 4 which read 48 misfires on one pull. I am now regretting my life decisions on buying this car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I’ll try the crank relearn when I have time today. I’m also wondering if it’s a problem with the engine computer. The only code that was thrown was a b101e which said it was for a security thing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update. I think the gas I had in it was old cause it was last filled from a sketch gas station in the middle of no where and I got 89 so who knows how long that had been sitting there. My friend came over looked at the stats. He said it was likely something with the gas cause it would lean out as you accelerated to higher engine speeds and the computer was all over the place correcting it. We put shell 87 in to fill the tank and added injector cleaner as well as fuel stabilizer. Car seems to misfire a lot less still the odd one or two. It still bucks on hard accelerations so I think my transmission is done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yep, that could certainly do it. Glad you found the problem, but certainly sorry about the tranny. Bummer.
Went for a highway drive. Very few if any misfires until you out load on the engine. Did a test of 3/4 throttle up a hill. The bar began to buck and engine speed was all over the place. Got another big misfire with the flashing check engine light and p300 code
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
It's because your using 87! 91 or above only! Yikes..... Also never use injector cleaner it will decimate your O2 sensors. Fuel stabilizer is unnecessary as well unless it will be sitting for over a year. Try a little octane booster, not a lot! I would put about 60% of what they suggest. You absolutely cannot run 87 octane on a turbo vehicle pushing 10+ lb. of boost. I bet your knocking and pinging like a beast.....
The car ran fine until I put higher octane gas in it. About 100km after is when I started having this disaster of problems. And why would they say you can run regular in jt if you actually can’t. I’m so done with this car I have spent over $1 for every km I have driven this car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Bad gas can do it, my parents got an intermittently flashing CEL on a Ford Windstar due to bad gas. After they ran through the bad tank it went away (... which didn't take very long since it was the middle of a road trip.) I disagree about the 87, the car does make more power with 91 especially when it's hot out (apparently knock retard doesn't reach 0 until you are up to 96 octane gas! I've read that the power difference running premium versus 87 is about 15HP...) but it's got variable valve timing, full boost control, computer-controlled transmission, and electronic throttle control (and of course electronic ignition timing), running 87 on it is perfectly safe. The problem could be because of old and low-quality gas in there (in which case it'll clear up once you've run through a tank or so) but really, it's not because it's 87 octane gas.
Car is coming back tonight. My mechanic said it was from the bad gas which is weird cause it was 89 from esso. He put new fuel injectors in cause they were all clogged up especially cylinder 4 which was the worst. He cleaned the spark plugs because they were covered in a black sticky film from the gas as well as cleaned out the cylinders. Never buying 89 gas and never from esso again. I think it was bad gas because not many people but 89 where I live so I think it was just old. We are preparing for the winter season and it’s getting colder here up in Canada sk I will try premium gas out next year and see how that goes. Thank you for the help everyone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
the click after 20 seconds of running the car is a brake click to let you know the ABS is working or something like that. I remember that from when I bought the car. my car has made this click noise every time i start driving.

Also, I drive a 2014 LT. Ive had it since new. I have only used 87 gas since Ive gotton it.

the only "bogging" that i have encountered is when i am going uphill, and my AC is on, the car is very sluggish. I shut off the AC until I am level again and all is well.

Hope this helps!!!
I definitely experience the same thing with the ac. I wish it didn’t do that but it’s fine I just turn it off for a second then put it back on after. Also I live in Canada so I use for June July and august and that’s about it
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top