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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yep, that could certainly do it. Glad you found the problem, but certainly sorry about the tranny. Bummer.
Went for a highway drive. Very few if any misfires until you out load on the engine. Did a test of 3/4 throttle up a hill. The bar began to buck and engine speed was all over the place. Got another big misfire with the flashing check engine light and p300 code
 

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It's because your using 87! 91 or above only! Yikes..... Also never use injector cleaner it will decimate your O2 sensors. Fuel stabilizer is unnecessary as well unless it will be sitting for over a year. Try a little octane booster, not a lot! I would put about 60% of what they suggest. You absolutely cannot run 87 octane on a turbo vehicle pushing 10+ lb. of boost. I bet your knocking and pinging like a beast.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
It's because your using 87! 91 or above only! Yikes..... Also never use injector cleaner it will decimate your O2 sensors. Fuel stabilizer is unnecessary as well unless it will be sitting for over a year. Try a little octane booster, not a lot! I would put about 60% of what they suggest. You absolutely cannot run 87 octane on a turbo vehicle pushing 10+ lb. of boost. I bet your knocking and pinging like a beast.....
The car ran fine until I put higher octane gas in it. About 100km after is when I started having this disaster of problems. And why would they say you can run regular in jt if you actually can’t. I’m so done with this car I have spent over $1 for every km I have driven this car
 

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Went for a highway drive. Very few if any misfires until you out load on the engine. Did a test of 3/4 throttle up a hill. The bar began to buck and engine speed was all over the place. Got another big misfire with the flashing check engine light and p300 code
To me this is starting to sound less like CASE factors and more like fueling. Don't lose hope quite yet.

Gasoline is a mixture of molecules that have different vaporization temperatures. The distillation curve of the fuel is very important to proper engine function, and injector spray pattern and timing are all developed assuming a normal range of distillation curves. As fuel ages the light ends evaporate, and if it gets really old it can also start to oxidize and get gummy; both of these are bad for fuel prep in the cylinder, and the first place it shows up is high speed/high load operation. You've got fewer light ends to vaporize, higher in-cylinder pressure which slows vaporization and there's also less time for vaporization to occur, and you start getting poor ignition and misfires. Then there's higher than normal O2 in the exhaust which the O2 sensors pick up, closed-loop fueling thinks it's a lean mixture and starts chasing it with fuel trim... it's a mess. On top of it, whatever octane number was shown on the pump is bogus once the fuel degrades that much, you have no idea what it is now other than that there's no chance it went higher. And yeah, it can make the car buck around like crazy - it's happened to me in the past, and the exhaust smelled like crap too.

Since adding some fresh fuel seems to have helped, I suggest either draining the tank and getting rid of the fuel or else driving it like you're an old man until the tank's empty, and then get a load of good fuel in and see what happens.
 

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The minimum suggested fuel is 87, but this might kick you down to the low octane timing table, so I'm just suggesting you use higher octane to see if it helps. I'm curious if your getting knock retard, but I'm not sure if that scanner can read it or not. Could be a bad knock sensor or false knock possibly.
 

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Bad gas can do it, my parents got an intermittently flashing CEL on a Ford Windstar due to bad gas. After they ran through the bad tank it went away (... which didn't take very long since it was the middle of a road trip.) I disagree about the 87, the car does make more power with 91 especially when it's hot out (apparently knock retard doesn't reach 0 until you are up to 96 octane gas! I've read that the power difference running premium versus 87 is about 15HP...) but it's got variable valve timing, full boost control, computer-controlled transmission, and electronic throttle control (and of course electronic ignition timing), running 87 on it is perfectly safe. The problem could be because of old and low-quality gas in there (in which case it'll clear up once you've run through a tank or so) but really, it's not because it's 87 octane gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Bad gas can do it, my parents got an intermittently flashing CEL on a Ford Windstar due to bad gas. After they ran through the bad tank it went away (... which didn't take very long since it was the middle of a road trip.) I disagree about the 87, the car does make more power with 91 especially when it's hot out (apparently knock retard doesn't reach 0 until you are up to 96 octane gas! I've read that the power difference running premium versus 87 is about 15HP...) but it's got variable valve timing, full boost control, computer-controlled transmission, and electronic throttle control (and of course electronic ignition timing), running 87 on it is perfectly safe. The problem could be because of old and low-quality gas in there (in which case it'll clear up once you've run through a tank or so) but really, it's not because it's 87 octane gas.
Car is coming back tonight. My mechanic said it was from the bad gas which is weird cause it was 89 from esso. He put new fuel injectors in cause they were all clogged up especially cylinder 4 which was the worst. He cleaned the spark plugs because they were covered in a black sticky film from the gas as well as cleaned out the cylinders. Never buying 89 gas and never from esso again. I think it was bad gas because not many people but 89 where I live so I think it was just old. We are preparing for the winter season and it’s getting colder here up in Canada sk I will try premium gas out next year and see how that goes. Thank you for the help everyone
 

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the click after 20 seconds of running the car is a brake click to let you know the ABS is working or something like that. I remember that from when I bought the car. my car has made this click noise every time i start driving.

Also, I drive a 2014 LT. Ive had it since new. I have only used 87 gas since Ive gotton it.

the only "bogging" that i have encountered is when i am going uphill, and my AC is on, the car is very sluggish. I shut off the AC until I am level again and all is well.

Hope this helps!!!
 

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the click after 20 seconds of running the car is a brake click to let you know the ABS is working or something like that. I remember that from when I bought the car. my car has made this click noise every time i start driving.

Also, I drive a 2014 LT. Ive had it since new. I have only used 87 gas since Ive gotton it.

the only "bogging" that i have encountered is when i am going uphill, and my AC is on, the car is very sluggish. I shut off the AC until I am level again and all is well.

Hope this helps!!!
The click should be mentioned in the owners manual.

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
the click after 20 seconds of running the car is a brake click to let you know the ABS is working or something like that. I remember that from when I bought the car. my car has made this click noise every time i start driving.

Also, I drive a 2014 LT. Ive had it since new. I have only used 87 gas since Ive gotton it.

the only "bogging" that i have encountered is when i am going uphill, and my AC is on, the car is very sluggish. I shut off the AC until I am level again and all is well.

Hope this helps!!!
I definitely experience the same thing with the ac. I wish it didn’t do that but it’s fine I just turn it off for a second then put it back on after. Also I live in Canada so I use for June July and august and that’s about it
 
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