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Discussion Starter #1
So I had another post saying that I am about to install HIDs into my 2013 LTZ. I don't want to drive around all day with HIDs on. I know there's harnesses you can install so they don't flicker and what not. Is there anyway I can wire/change settings to make my fog lights my DRL instead of my normal for lights. I know there has to be someone here who has done this or researched the topic.
 

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I have the stock fog lights. I'm not installing fog lights or those LED fog lights. Also I know I can just turn off my headlights but I don't want to have to do that every time I get in the car.
 

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Also I know I can just turn off my headlights but I don't want to have to do that every time I get in the car.
Some have talked about removing the spring from the light switch so when you move it to "off", it stays "off". Of course, you lose the automatic lights feature.

I've been wanting to add LED DRLs to my car, but when I do that, I want to make it so the headlights are no longer the DRL. None of the kits I've looked at will do that. But I think I've figured a way - simply install a relay such that the headlight line passes though the NO contacts and wire the coil to the parking lights. (Headlight DRL - no parking light, relay open. Parking light - relay closed, but no power on the headlight line. Headlights - power on headlights AND parking light.) I would add a diode across the coil so the relay spike doesn't go back to the BCM.
 

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Also I know I can just turn off my headlights but I don't want to have to do that every time I get in the car.
Some have talked about removing the spring from the light switch so when you move it to "off", it stays "off". Of course, you lose the automatic lights feature.

I've been wanting to add LED DRLs to my car, but when I do that, I want to make it so the headlights are no longer the DRL. None of the kits I've looked at will do that. But I think I've figured a way - simply install a relay such that the headlight line passes though the NO contacts and wire the coil to the parking lights. (Headlight DRL - no parking light, relay open. Parking light - relay closed, but no power on the headlight line. Headlights - power on headlights AND parking light.) I would add a diode across the coil so the relay spike doesn't go back to the BCM.
So how would you go about wiring it to make the fog lights DRL?
Also when you say relay, do you mean the relay I'm going to be buying for my HIDs?
 

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So how would you go about wiring it to make the fog lights DRL?
Well, if you want to do that, I guess you could do this: Connect the headlight "line" to the "common" contact on the relay. Connect the "NO" contact to the headlights. Connect the NC contact to the fog lights. Now the DRL signal gets routed to the fogs. But when the parking lights turn on, then the signal is routed to the headlights.


Also when you say relay, do you mean the relay I'm going to be buying for my HIDs?
No. This would be an additional relay. The relay for the HID would be driven by this new relay.
 

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I am also very interested in this because I just installed HIDs and the DRL really messes things up. Occasionally, the driver side HID stays on when DRL are supposed to be and then when it gets dark, only the driver side comes/stays on.
My questions is, if the 2015 have LED DRLs, how is the wiring different? Is it something that can be easily transfered to the other years (mine is a 2013)?. Is it an additional relay or something like that? I'm sorry I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics/wiring but I can follow instructions :)
I have ebay LED fog lights that I'd like to use as DRLs.
 

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I am also very interested in this because I just installed HIDs and the DRL really messes things up. Occasionally, the driver side HID stays on when DRL are supposed to be and then when it gets dark, only the driver side comes/stays on.
You might try my suggestion of adding a relay that prevents the headlights from turning on unless the parking lights are on. This will remove the DRL function.


My questions is, if the 2015 have LED DRLs, how is the wiring different?
I'd lay money on the DRLs being powered from the BCM (just like most of the other lights), and the BCM has a program for it. It would be nice to get a hold of a 2015 manual and see how it's done, but I don't have much hope it can be transferred to 2011-2014. Even if those pins are available on our BCM, we'd probably need a modified flash update to do it.
 

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Anybody happen to have a detailed wiring diagram of those circuits? The challenge, as far as I understand, is to ensure that the new circuit fools the blown light / circuit failure indications.

I have both the dimmed DRL headlight and the LED's in the foglight location. I hope to come up with a means of disabling the dimmed headlights and include the corner lamps along with my LEDS as DRL's I am convinced that it will look better and save some energy and bulbs. I also think of it as added feature for those fine poeple that feel that 120 plus in a foggy 100 km/h zone is safe and they suddenly see a grey car with no lights on at all on the rear.

Just incase anybody is wondering I don't allow the automatic lighting system to make all of my lighting decisions, but it will to have those corner lamps as always on by default.
 

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Anybody happen to have a detailed wiring diagram of those circuits?
Not much to see. With the exception of the high beams which are controlled by a relay, most all other lights are controlled by an individual connection to the BCM. Individual as in each filament/bulb has it's own connection. (That includes each individual corner light.) I can't remember if fogs are on relay or not.
 

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Not much to see. With the exception of the high beams which are controlled by a relay, most all other lights are controlled by an individual connection to the BCM. Individual as in each filament/bulb has it's own connection. (That includes each individual corner light.) I can't remember if fogs are on relay or not.
Quite true, the fogs are run off a relay and the high beams also, not sure what you guys are trying to accomplish but in order to not toast up the BCM or set a code or set a bulb out message the load you put on the BCM has to be within the trigger limits of the BCM--which the books don't say but obviously has to be the normal current draw of the bulb, the port of the BCM has to be satisfied, so the only way to do that is with a resistor load, anything can be accomplished with cheap bosh style relays and diodes with the exception of the headlight daytime running lights, those are pulse width modulated to a lower voltage and the low beams (same bulb) are run at the full 12V
both modes powered out of the same BCM port--so it would take a OP amp IC to detect the two modes of the low beam lamps--not hard to do either, so tell me what you want to accomplish and I will draw a diagram to make it happen
 

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My questions is, if the 2015 have LED DRLs, how is the wiring different? Is it something that can be easily transfered to the other years (mine is a 2013)?. Is it an additional relay or something like that? I'm sorry I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics/wiring but I can follow instructions :)
I have ebay LED fog lights that I'd like to use as DRLs.[/QUOTE]
Most likely the new LED DRLs on the 2015 cruze is going to be a PWM current and voltage control out of the BCM, LEDs have to have a controlled supply because they drift in current draw and light output as they warm up, most LED power supplies are a constant current design, knowing what GM has been using I'd say the new LEDs are PWM controlled, I doubt you could just transfer your aftermarket LEDs to the 2015 cruze BCM, but they could easily be run off the controller they likely came with, all leds are not created equal and have different optimum drive parameters, some lights series or parallel the individual LEDs and sometimes both ways !
 

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You might try my suggestion of adding a relay that prevents the headlights from turning on unless the parking lights are on. This will remove the DRL function.
You could install a drl relay for the fog lights, then use the parking lights for the hid relay trigger wire. But you would never have control of your fog lights if that's ok.
You guys make it sound so easy. It all sounds like Latin to me. If there were part numbers and detailed instructions I could try it, but just going by what you are saying is not going to be possible for me.

I will continue to follow this thread to see if someone eventually come up with a solution, as I really like the 5K HID I had installed in the projector lamp. Anyways, I have in the meantime removed it and installed a sylvania silverstar ultra to appease the DRL during the day and give me light from both sides at night.
 

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but in order to not toast up the BCM
The manual lists codes for most lines: Open, short to ground and short to hot. Taken at face value, that suggests the BCM is pretty robust. Still, I'd be careful about inductive loads - those can kick back a higher voltage.


or set a code or set a bulb out message the load you put on the BCM has to be within the trigger limits of the BCM--which the books don't say but obviously has to be the normal current draw of the bulb, the port of the BCM has to be satisfied, so the only way to do that is with a resistor load
Maybe, but I notice other threads here about a wiring upgrade that removes the headlight load from the BCM and uses a relay. I don't recall anyone complaining that they got a code for open headlight. So a resistor may be needed. Or, it may not. We'll have to see. And the BCM may not be calibrated to see a specific load - it just wants to warn about something really wrong - not a under powered headlight. Also, Extreme just talked about running LED side marker lights. I've measured the current of a HP3 - it's around 1/10th of a normal W5W bulb. So I don't think the BCM is too picky about the right current.


anything can be accomplished with cheap bosh style relays and diodes with the exception of the headlight daytime running lights,
Why wouldn't this work to suppress the headlight DRL? If needed, add a resistor to the upper contact to the keep the BCM happy.
 

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Should work with a load resistor on the upper contact, I'd add a series diode on the relay besides the spike diode
I'm pretty sure the BCM uses a current sense circuit that if triggered the micro quits trying to turn the load on if excessive, I'm pretty sure the engineers tried to allow for a shorting bulb filament so the window of triggering is probably large, that said I still wouldn't mess with the BCM light output ports much due to the cost of the BCM and having to pay to have a new one programed, been my experience that the small devices used in todays electronics can and do short at the least little overload, most engineers use just some extra copper on the circuit board for heat sinking and the devices are tiny and cannot dissipate any overload past their rating--
 

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I'd like to keep automatic lights if possible and disable drl. Otherwise disable drl and automatic lights altogether. Ideally I'd like my LED fogs to be drl
 
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