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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
The tool can be obtained for $65 from Amazon now. The $200+ tool was from Kent Moore. Fortunately, aftermarket options have been made available since that was released. I replaced valve springs a few weeks ago and used that tool, which worked perfectly. I'll be working on a tutorial in the coming weeks on how to use it and how to replace valve springs.

https://amzn.to/2JjwzYj
Awesome! Thank you.That might be getting added to my Amazon cart in a few minutes.
Any leads on where to get Pistons? Or a whole rebuild kit? Looking at Rock Auto I only saw some gaskets but nothing for a full rebuild. Just wondering if I have to go back to GM.
 

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Awesome! Thank you.That might be getting added to my Amazon cart in a few minutes.
Any leads on where to get Pistons? Or a whole rebuild kit? Looking at Rock Auto I only saw some gaskets but nothing for a full rebuild. Just wondering if I have to go back to GM.
That, I don't know. I would start with GM on the pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Alright then. Thanks for y'all's info. I ordered the cam locking tool and will probably be bringing my Cruze to work next week and start to disassemble. I'm thinking about taking the head off first before I pull the whole engine and see if it's just a head gasket. I will keep y'all informed about my findings​
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The tool can be obtained for $65 from Amazon now. The $200+ tool was from Kent Moore. Fortunately, aftermarket options have been made available since that was released. I replaced valve springs a few weeks ago and used that tool, which worked perfectly. I'll be working on a tutorial in the coming weeks on how to use it and how to replace valve springs.

https://amzn.to/2JjwzYj
Ran into something this evening... What hole and pin do you use for the crank lock? I'm assuming it's the larg pin that is in the kit. That leaves 2 plugs on the a/c compressor side . The bottom one has what I'm guessing is a pressure relief ball under it. The top plug is Hollow but no matter how the engine is turned there is no "slot" if u will that the pin slides in to lock the crank. There is also a small plug to the side of that but that one is to big and deep for the either small pin that comes in the kit.

Also I've read that the harmonic balancer makes a difference if it's 180° off. I've always put it back where I took it off so it has not changed since I've had the car. But looking at the marks (small hole in harmonic balancer and mark on front cover) and watching the cam/valves open/close and looking down the spark plug hole I've noticed mine is 180° off and it ran fine.
 

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What hole and pin do you use for the crank lock?
I can't help you there at all. I've never had one of those engines apart and I'm only vaguely aware of how the variable valve timing works on that engine. That said, I find it to be simply mindboggling that GM is getting 153 horsepower out of 85 cubic inches with the 2nd-Gen engine. That engine has to be wound pretty tight with a lot of compression and a ton of boost. For that reason, I run nothing but 93-octane BP Ultimate or Shell gasoline in it now and the engine runs a LOT better.
 

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I'm assuming that you have access to Alldata. If you don't google workshop manuals Vauxhall Astra J.. It's a poor interface, but they use the LUJ LUV engine in that car and you can see the timing procedure.

I've never done this work, but I've researched and read a lot on this engine. There are two pins in the kit. The small pin is for the serpentine tensioner. Another small pin I believe is for the timing chain tensioner, but I'm not 100% certain on that, as the kit on amazon has 1 more component over the cams than the original kent moore tools for this procedure if I recall correctly. You want to hold the cams with the double humped tool, not the single humped tool if that makes sense. The larger one is for the crank.

With the hole punched out on the harmonic balancer aligned with a line on the timing cover (You should see this.. I guess there's a line or mark on the timing cover around the 1:00 pm or 2:00 pm position.) in approximately the 1:00 position as referencing a clock while looking at the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft.

It appears that the hole is actually referred to as a crankshaft bearing cap tie plate plug, it appears that its right above the oil pan, about three bolts to the passenger side from where the oil pan bends to allow the exhaust manifold to heat the oil.

This is based on the rendering in the document I seen online. Line art Auto part Diagram Drawing Automotive window part Text Font Diagram
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I'm assuming that you have access to Alldata. If you don't google workshop manuals Vauxhall Astra J.. It's a poor interface, but they use the LUJ LUV engine in that car and you can see the timing procedure.

I've never done this work, but I've researched and read a lot on this engine. There are two pins in the kit. The small pin is for the serpentine tensioner. Another small pin I believe is for the timing chain tensioner, but I'm not 100% certain on that, as the kit on amazon has 1 more component over the cams than the original kent moore tools for this procedure if I recall correctly. You want to hold the cams with the double humped tool, not the single humped tool if that makes sense. The larger one is for the crank.

With the hole punched out on the harmonic balancer aligned with a line on the timing cover (You should see this.. I guess there's a line or mark on the timing cover around the 1:00 pm or 2:00 pm position.) in approximately the 1:00 position as referencing a clock while looking at the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft.

It appears that the hole is actually referred to as a crankshaft bearing cap tie plate plug, it appears that its right above the oil pan, about three bolts to the passenger side from where the oil pan bends to allow the exhaust manifold to heat the oil.

This is based on the rendering in the document I seen online. View attachment 263898 View attachment 263905
Thanks for the info, I found one write up about the timing kit that I'll copy and post, but that one only told about the crank looking pin but didn't show a pic of it. I think, judging by the image you posted , that it must be back behind the a/c compressor bracket. It also never mentioned about the smaller pins. Also my harmonic balancer is turned 180°off ( guessing someone else has been in this engine before me) so I may have to flip it to get the hole to line up with the timing mark on the front cover.
 

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I didn't watch the entire video, but I think this only shows the removal. I think the key thing that is going to be a trick is replacing the Variable valve Timing actuators with the tool that looks like it's double humped.

And pinning the tensioner, why would that be required? Is that so the chain can be removed from the upper sprockets.

I'd suggest getting a good set of E-Torx sockets. His Crank bolt looks all rounded up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
I didn't watch the entire video, but I think this only shows the removal. I think the key thing that is going to be a trick is replacing the Variable valve Timing actuators with the tool that looks like it's double humped.

And pinning the tensioner, why would that be required? Is that so the chain can be removed from the upper sprockets.

I'd suggest getting a good set of E-Torx sockets. His Crank bolt looks all rounded up.
I watched the video, he did a lot of cursing but got the head off lol. He didn't even use the double hump bracket, I think I will be trying to use mine . One of the first things I got was a couple sets of E sockets , best money I've spent so far. Did have to get some more Torx head sockets. My set only went to T50 and the plug that I need to take out for the crank stop pin is T55 I think. I stopped by fishers this evening and got one to try tomorrow. I do have a bigger set coming that goes to T60 if needed. Hopefully I can get it all locked up and head pulled off tomorrow.

Yes I think you have to pin the tensioner to take slack off chain so you can unbolt the cams from the chain sprockets
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Welp head is off and I sure don't see anything wrong. Now the question is do I try to drop the pan and pull the Pistons or just slap another head gasket on it and try it?
 

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Welp head is off and I sure don't see anything wrong. Now the question is do I try to drop the pan and pull the Pistons or just slap another head gasket on it and try it?
What do the hone marks inside the cylinders look like? Is the crosshatch consistent? There's no head gasket leak visible on that head gasket, but that doesn't rule one out immediately. How do the pistons look? I know at this point you can only see the tops, but any signs of wear around the edges?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
What do the hone marks inside the cylinders look like? Is the crosshatch consistent? There's no head gasket leak visible on that head gasket, but that doesn't rule one out immediately. How do the pistons look? I know at this point you can only see the tops, but any signs of wear around the edges?
Crosshatching still visible when you get the light right, it all looks consistent. Pistons look good. Can't rule out rings but I'm not thinking so. Head gasket doesn't have any definite "it blew here" spots but it is less of the black silicone that's made onto the head gasket in a few spots, mainly between#2 &#3 . Now it could just be where it came off when I pulled the head but I am leaning towards a small leak when hot and under pressure. But I would of thought it would of had more pressure on the gauge since I checked it cold. I'm hoping that it just wasn't sealing properly and hopefully a head gasket will be all I need to cure my problems.
 

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Buck556-

How did the head reinstall go? Did it cure the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Buck556-

How did the head reinstall go? Did it cure the problem?
All the parts just came in yesterday , about to start reassembly now , not sure how much I'll get to this evening , but will let y'all know the progress. Just keep your fingers crossed for me that this will solve it...If not it'll probably be going to get traded in
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Head is on and torqued down. Did 26 flbs then 180° . But anyone got the torque specs for the cam bolts? I can't seem to find them anywhere.
 

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Sorry still following. I did look at what I had downloaded, and I didn't see it in the Astra J information that I downloaded about the head replacement. I saved that information about a year or two ago. Not sure it's even still out in public domain.

Glad you found it.
 
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