What year and model is this? Had both the front and rear brakes off my 2012 2LT and don't recall seeing any clips like this as in your photo.
One very major error in doing a brake job is jamming that caliper piston in with a large C-clamp. That piston is extended and corrosion builds up jamming it when you force it back in. In theory at least, should be able to crack open the bleeder and push that piston in with your two thumbs.
Boot can be removed and the outside of that piston has to be cleaned and coated with brake fluid. If the boot is cracked, usually are, can be replaced.
Hmm thought I could find that boot separately, but this includes with piston ring, only a couple of bucks.
But clean the original ones with denatured alcohol, if no cracks and flexible, put those back in. If the piston is in too far, an assistant can gently push on the brake pedal with there hand an yell when it extends.
Silicone goes in the guides, and use Permatex anti-sieze, particularly under those clips and on the outside. Only tools I use for installing them are my fingers. Very poor plating on those pad brackets, tried Rust-Oleum high temperature brake paint, worthless. And for whatever reason, Rust-Oleum is the only brand all my stores around here sell. Valspar made a great paint, but can't find it locally. Would like to electroplate these brackets and do it right, but electroplaters are also history.
What is not is road salt, just a constant problem.
With rotors, practically for what they charge today, just as cheap as buying new ones. What they don't do is sand blast those vents that are packed full of rust, so losing a lot of cooling capacity.
Daughter was talked to paying 99 bucks for new pads, idiots put those in with a hammer. She is away, told her to take it back and tell them to do it right, developed a rubbing noise. They said the brakes were find, lying basterds but both her hub bearings were bad, again lying basterds. Called me again, said get the heck out of there. Come home and let your daddy do it.
