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Dash warning has been going off for about a week. I have the new fuel filter but can't seem to find it in the engine bay? Am I retarded or is it hiding somewhere I'm not seeing?
 

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It is under the car, just in front of the driver side REAR wheel. You need to put the rear up on ramps to get room. Be very carful with the housing, it is held to the fuel tank with a PLASTIC mount, and it is known to be quite tight and can require considerable torque to get it moving. Also, I recommend doing this when NOT on a fuel tank, in my case it never seemed to stop draining (there is a drain in the middle of the housing, also used to drain water if you get the WIF warning). In any case, it is not too horrible a job.. there should be an entire thread on doing this work on this site somewhere. BTW, same as the Gen 1 Cruze Diesel, except Gen 1 is on the passenger side just forward of the rear wheel.
 

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Thanks I'll get to it this weekend. Should be close to empty by then. I've seen the videos posted for the gen 1 I'll have a look at it. Can the housing be loosened by hand or what's the trick to getting it off?
 

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If you can put it on a lift and have access to an impact hammer and a helper, that is best.

My cousin helped me change mine. He held the mount for the filter (which is very flimsy) while I used an impact hammer on the lowest air pressure setting the gun would allow. The act of jarring/hammering the housing, even with low force, was what it needed to easily break it free and unscrew. We drained the filter into a pan, installed the new one, and poured the drained fuel back into the tank.
 

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With the gen 1 you need to prime the filter by turning the ignition on without starting the car four or five times. You can hear the filter filling.
 
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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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What about gen 2 with keyless start?
That isn't something I've thought about before...huh...

Yeah, you can hear the 1st gen blasting that filter full on prime the first few times...but I have no idea how you'd do that if you can't turn the ignition on without starting the car...
 

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For priming, I haven't tried the job yet, but someone else posted a helpful video on how to do the priming process for Gen 2 diesel:
 
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I'm not real familiar with the push button start. I think you can turn the ignition on without starting the engine by pushing the button without touching the brake.
 
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Here is one of several threads.. I'll dig up a few others, you'll need a large socket for the filter housing, being as it is plastic, use of an adjustable wrench or vise grips is not recommended. I would say it is impossible to rotate it by hand... The second change on my Gen 1, the problem in this thread happened to me, I had to remove the entire thing from the car, put it in a VISE, and only then could get it off.. Also had to repair the cracked plastic around the flimsy mount. It is a job that if all goes well, it's very easy, but only one problem can make it a difficult job. Fuel Filter Removal Problems
 
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I have several posts in this thread describing what can happen if it does not go well... Any tips or suggestions for fuel filter replacement?
This is why I'm considering farming out this job despite having done fuel filters on plenty of other cars. I have a knack for turning simple jobs into fiascos on everything, and I feel like this one just has fiasco written all over it.
 

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This is why I'm considering farming out this job despite having done fuel filters on plenty of other cars. I have a knack for turning simple jobs into fiascos on everything, and I feel like this one just has fiasco written all over it.
I should point out, the first change was easy, it was the second change on that car that had issues.. I think the plastic swells over time and makes the cap super tight.. the first change might not be difficult, and you can just try to remove it, if it doesn't budge with reasonable force, you then farm it out. If it rotates fairly easy.. the rest of the job is pretty easy. I'm really thinking about the aluminum cap for my next one, a bit pricey, but I'm pretty sure it will solve the issue for good.
 
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I should point out, the first change was easy, it was the second change on that car that had issues.. I think the plastic swells over time and makes the cap super tight.. the first change might not be difficult, and you can just try to remove it, if it doesn't budge with reasonable force, you then farm it out. If it rotates fairly easy.. the rest of the job is pretty easy. I'm really thinking about the aluminum cap for my next one, a bit pricey, but I'm pretty sure it will solve the issue for good.
Hopefully the first change will go smoothly, but for sure an aluminum cap would be better longterm. I realize plastics have improved a lot over time, but in general plastic and aging isn't a good mix.
 
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Doesn't sound fun. Can the filter self prime or is there anything special to do?
Yes, it self-primes very easily. Replace the o-rings on the filter housing, install the new filter, and then prime it. Do this by NOT stepping on the brake or clutch while you hold the start button down for about 5 seconds. The car will turn on electronics without the engine starting. You will hear the low pressure pump activate to fill up the new fuel filter. It runs about 10 seconds and you'll hear it change pitch as it pumps fuel into and through the new filter. Once the new filter has pumped up for about 30 seconds you can start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes. The engine might stall if there are a few small air bubbles in the system but just restart it and after 2-3 minutes everything is good to go as long as there are no leaks spotted.
 

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Yes, it self-primes very easily. Replace the o-rings on the filter housing, install the new filter, and then prime it. Do this by NOT stepping on the brake or clutch while you hold the start button down for about 5 seconds. The car will turn on electronics without the engine starting. You will hear the low pressure pump activate to fill up the new fuel filter. It runs about 10 seconds and you'll hear it change pitch as it pumps fuel into and through the new filter. Once the new filter has pumped up for about 30 seconds you can start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes. The engine might stall if there are a few small air bubbles in the system but just restart it and after 2-3 minutes everything is good to go as long as there are no leaks spotted.
I have a manual transmission. It works as written in the manual. I did the prime 4 times to be on the safe side and wanted to make sure a positive bleed process. The engine fired right up as if nothing changed. It's safe to say 2 or 3 times is sufficient.
 

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OK, finally did the first change on one of my Gen 2s, and it did require an air impact wrench to get that cap off! It was expected. I did replace with one of the aluminum caps, I was able to find them on EBay and made an offer to buy the first 2 for $60 which was accepted. I got the second pair for $64, these are the exact same ones on Amazon for $70 each. The second pair was missing the plugs, but the seller is sending another pair which is a few weeks out. I can confirm the L5P Duramax cap is the same as the Cruze and works, it goes on snug, but not stupid tight like the plastic cap. The other 3 cars will be getting changed out when the filter is next due for a change.
 
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