I was having dropping fuel mileage before and pulled the map sensor to clean it, made a large difference especially on the low end.Details? I wasn't aware this was an issue with our cars.
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Shell V-Power Nitro, ULSD 15ppm or lower.I think you're the first person I've heard having to do this. Are you using low-sulfur diesel from a reputable source?
No I mean MAP Sensor, (SENSOR ASM-MAP), also known as Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor. ACDELCO OE SERVICE CANADADo you mean the MAF sensor?
Post 28 From BradHerrSo where is it located on the LUZ engine?
Thats awesome Info Brad Thank You. EGR is Black Death to any Diesel engine. GM please remove the EGR!!!View attachment 214930 View attachment 214938
After about 50,000 miles on the delete tune. It looks like, no EGR = no soot.
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EGR causes almost all the soot in our engines, look at the deleted clean MAP sensor as the example.It's coming though the EGR valve, but I'm not sure as it's the cause of it - unless maybe it was cracked open when it shouldn't be. I'd be more concerned if the engine was running extra sootie.
I only do mileage checks after 15 - 20 mins of driving.Subjectively, cleaning the MAP may make a difference. Objectively, we can look at this using our SC II. Look at the MAP numbers before cleaning it and when cold, warm and hot and document those. Let car cool overnight, clean MAP per above and do the same readings with SC II and see how they compare. If the cleaning works, there is an objective verification of the results.
Ive done this with my SC C55 with the MAF and there is a difference when clean versus dirty. We've done this on dyno. The MAF in the C55 is a round plastic unit with a single vertical wire that acts as the measuring unit. This wire gets dirty. A quick clean of the wire with brake cleaner or MAF cleaner and wipe down with shop towel and you can see and feel the differences.
Ouch. If I was closer I would help out. Sorry that happened to you.I should have listened to Diesel. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
67K on the odometer, not original owner...read this thread and decided to check the MAP sensor today. Now my perfectly fine CTD is disabled because the bottom 1/2 o-ring end of the sensor is busted off in the bore.
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Scratching my head as to how best to remove the broken end. Will keep u posted...ugh!
My car gets much better fuel mileage and drives much better when its clean. Its definitely not overrated on my car.I agree; most of this 'cleaning' business is overrated. Just because a sensor appear dirty doesn't mean it's not working as intended.
I would have to agree after two ended catastrophically. Just leave it for the dealer Peoples. If it needs cleaning or replacement to the dealer it should go.I kinda think cleaning this sensor is way more potential risk and trouble vs the benefit. I will leave my alone. I change the oil and the filters, if it needs something else I will take to a dealer. The idea of a plastic anything sitting inside a cylinder bore is a [email protected] nightmare on my mind.
What size is the O2 sensor? Have to pick up a crows foot today. Is there a spec for the torque on it?Well after a reoccurring P0133 that kept resetting I found this thread. Pulled the O2 and MAP sensors of which both were heavily sooted up. With 56k miles I'd rather work on it than a dealer if possible.
Cleaned both with MAF sensor cleaner and compressed air. Been a few days and no SES light.
The MAP is a little sensitive getting out and I can see how it will break the tip off. You need to pry it up from two sides which can be tricky. If you just pry from the mounting flange it bends the sensor which can break it.
While I don't have any hard data to back up this maintenance I'd recommend it. Don't feel like getting any PCM reflash at this point.
