The rear O2 is spec'd at 31 ft/lb according to AllData.
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Cleaned the MAP and an O2 or EGT sensor today. With pix.
Before and After soaking and cleaning with a soft old tooth brush in gasoline. Blew it off to get rid of the large pieces. Then soaked for a tic, brushed, then blew off again to dry before reinstall. Also attached a pic of the paint can lid I used to clean the MAP and the gunk it left behind.
Did the same with what I thought is the upstream O2 sensor. But didn't get before pix of the O2 sensor. Couldn't figure out how to unplug it so I just cleaned it in the car.
Will see if the mpgs go up next week.
Before and After soaking and cleaning with a soft old tooth brush in gasoline. Blew it off to get rid of the large pieces. Then soaked for a tic, brushed, then blew off again to dry before reinstall. Also attached a pic of the paint can lid I used to clean the MAP and the gunk it left behind.
Did the same with what I thought is the upstream O2 sensor. But didn't get before pix of the O2 sensor. Couldn't figure out how to unplug it so I just cleaned it in the car.
Will see if the mpgs go up next week.
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Hi
I am having this issue right now were I cant get fuel range or how many KM left in the tank. Is this sensor that you mentioned causing this problem??
Thanks
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Bought a used diesel 2014 with 93k miles on it not a month ago, after the old Nissan was totalled. I thought it was a good price 
Have you seen the used car prices lately? Of course the dealer always wins, the car had a bunch of problems starting days later, and I have been spending hours reading since then. Buying as is means buying as is. The legal options are slim to none. Buy a good scanner prior to buying a used car. The flipside is that you can't usually get a good price for a car without problems.
I won the DEF fight against reduced range by replacing the DEF pump. Not so bad, $200 and an easy job.
I won against the catalytic converter code by replacing the DPS sensor. While pulling it out one leg broke off, luckily after it was out.
No more codes, but it's also not getting ready after driving for 100+ miles. There are hints about the fuel system problems in the detailed diagnostics, which apparently makes the computer to not even initialize some of the emissions check streams. It doesn't get to PMS diagnostics and does not turn it on, for example.
So, MAP comes in. This thread gave a good hint it can be an issue. I went in and pulled it. Ended up with its body and a thin wire sticking out, the rest of it is stuck in the hole, glued with gunk very well. Ordered a new one, put this one back in. No codes are showing. So, basically, this fella may be sort of optional at times. It seems if the voltage is within range, it won't throw a code. The fuel mix is not optimal, but it may be good enough. Gotta wonder how many other parts are like that - no codes, no warnings, just a suboptimal performance...
Well, I will see if replacing it fixes anything. The next thing is oil pressure solenoid which is stuck on high - another part which one really needs to dig into diagnostics to notice.
Have you seen the used car prices lately? Of course the dealer always wins, the car had a bunch of problems starting days later, and I have been spending hours reading since then. Buying as is means buying as is. The legal options are slim to none. Buy a good scanner prior to buying a used car. The flipside is that you can't usually get a good price for a car without problems.I won the DEF fight against reduced range by replacing the DEF pump. Not so bad, $200 and an easy job.
I won against the catalytic converter code by replacing the DPS sensor. While pulling it out one leg broke off, luckily after it was out.
No more codes, but it's also not getting ready after driving for 100+ miles. There are hints about the fuel system problems in the detailed diagnostics, which apparently makes the computer to not even initialize some of the emissions check streams. It doesn't get to PMS diagnostics and does not turn it on, for example.
So, MAP comes in. This thread gave a good hint it can be an issue. I went in and pulled it. Ended up with its body and a thin wire sticking out, the rest of it is stuck in the hole, glued with gunk very well. Ordered a new one, put this one back in. No codes are showing. So, basically, this fella may be sort of optional at times. It seems if the voltage is within range, it won't throw a code. The fuel mix is not optimal, but it may be good enough. Gotta wonder how many other parts are like that - no codes, no warnings, just a suboptimal performance...
Well, I will see if replacing it fixes anything. The next thing is oil pressure solenoid which is stuck on high - another part which one really needs to dig into diagnostics to notice.
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