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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Garmin Nuvi "hardwire"/12v plug install (w/photos)

I want to hardwire my Nuvi, but my charger cable is also the traffic receiver and I can't use an aftermarket hardwire kit.

My solution is to wire a 12v plug hidden in the center console and then use the Garmin factory cord to run through the dash and out above the instrument cluster to the GPS.

Where would I tie in the 12v plug for power that is switched by the ignition. My factory plugs are not switched due to some modification to the switching relay to those plugs.

The only other switched power I can think of is to the radio. Any other ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What about hiding it in the fuse panel and running it up to the pillar.

Not sure if a add a fuse will work here or not? Anyone body know?

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That is initially what I wanted to do, but I'm afraid that the size of the Garmin plug and a female 12v plug in there will make for tight quarters for everything.

The add a fuse won't work unless I tear apart the Garmin car charger and remove the male 12v plug from the equation. It's an option that I haven't thrown out yet, but trying to avoid for something more simple.

I'm not exactly sure which wires I even need to splice to at this point. Trying to get a few ideas and see which I like or will work best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you buy a female cig adaptor it has a pos and neg wire.
So you could save the original male wire that came with the Garmin.


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Correct. I'm looking to basically install a hidden 12v plug someplace. Was thinking that the lower center console by driver's feet would be the easiest for access, but not sure where to tie in to power at.

As a last resort, I could take the male plug off the Garmin cable and splice it someplace, but I'm trying to avoid that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Link didn't work for me but this is what I'm talking about
View attachment 35618


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Fixed link.....this female plug is what I planned to use, and I can tie it in to the add-a-fuse linked in my previous post. I should be able to make this all work.

Is there a place on the fuse block to run the ground wire for the female plug, or do I need to ground it myself? And does it matter which open position I use in the fuse block for the add-a-fuse?

This is my first ever endeavor trying to hardwire anything in a vehicle, so I really appreciate the help here. And I definitely like the add-a-fuse option over splicing into factory wires with those blade connectors as I had originally planned.
 

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Yeah that is it.
The fuse block is only for positive power only.
You will need to crimp a spade terminal and ground it to a bolt that is screwed into metal there is a good ground under the kick panel you will see it as a bolt with a rounded over nut. This will require 2-3 feet of extra wire though.


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah that is it.
The fuse block is only for positive power only.
You will need to crimp a spade terminal and ground it to a bolt that is screwed into metal there is a good ground under the kick panel you will see it as a bolt with a rounded over nut. This will require 2-3 feet of extra wire though.
That's no problem. I believe that I can drop the add-a-fuse into the fuse block, and run my hot wire into the center console and tie into the female plug, then ground it out there and zip-tie everything into place. There's plenty of room in there to hide all of the plugs and the Garmin cord will definitely reach to the GPS unit.


The Garmin draws up to 5 amps. My meter reads 4.8 amps. I'm thinking a 10A fuse should be sufficient, as that's the only thing I plan to use this circuit for
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
The add a fuse is not to "just" add a fuse.
It's actually used to give you power and a fuse. So there is no need to go in the center console at all.
That's why you see a wire coming out, its your power for your Garmin.
I understand that. I want to run the hot power wire from the add-a-fuse over to the center console because it's the only place I can find big enough to hide the absolutely bulky Garmin adapter and the female 12v plug.

Do you have a suggestion for another space to hide them without being in the way of access to the fuse block?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Passenger side panel for the center consol (lower section by the feet)
BINGO! We're on the same page! I REALLY appreciate the help.

I'm buying the add-a-fuse and a 12V extension cord that's 12ft long (cut the male plug off and that gives me plenty of wire to work with on both hot and ground). That should be all that I need to get this project up and going, and all for under $20.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Am I correct in understanding that the add-a-fuse basically splits a fuse position into 2 useable circuits......the original circuit that was there before adding it, and the 2nd one being the hot wire coming from it?
 

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Am I correct in understanding that the add-a-fuse basically splits a fuse position into 2 useable circuits......the original circuit that was there before adding it, and the 2nd one being the hot wire coming from it?
Yes :)


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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
OK...I've got the job done. Took longer to run around and find the 12v NON-COILED extension cord than anything.

The add-a-fuse was $7 at O'Reilly Auto Parts, and the 10ft extension cord was $15 at Radio Shack. I already had the connectors and heat shrink laying around the garage.

Plugged the add-a-fuse with 10A fuse into #2 position (empty, but powered), ran the hot wire under the steering wheel and into the center console underneath the shift assembly. Grounded to the 10mm bolt that secures the shifter housing to the floor. Made sure to wire tie the wires AWAY from the heater coils coming in from the firewall on the driver's side. Those pipes are HOT!

I knew that the 10ft cord was overkill on length, but I prefer to have too much than too little. Turns out that I probably used about 5 feet for the hot wire and about 1 foot for the ground.

Took less than an hour to install, most of which was spent trying to find a circuit in the fuse block that was switched. Apparently they all are powered and that the switching occurs somewhere in the circuit AFTER the fuse block. (I wish Chilton/Haynes would make the 2012 Cruze manuals already....wiring schematics would have been nice to see!)

Very easy install. The only thing needed removed was the driver's side fuse block cover and the kick panels on both sides of the center console.

Fuse block, Plugged into #2 position.


Ground wire position (passenger side)


Routing the Garmin factory cord



Powered up and all cords/plugs in place.


Thanks to tecollins1 for helping me hash this out. If you're ever in the New Orleans area, I'm buying the beer!
 
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