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Didn’t find a thread dedicated to Gen 2 Uoa so here goes.
I am way out of warranty so that is no concern of mine. Also southern climate so few low temps. I consider Amsoil 10W30 the best option for my driving conditions.
 

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I take it fuel dilution is an extra cost option?
It'd be interesting to see how much gas gets in the oil after 15kmi.
 

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Yes this was a value kit. Mostly for tbn and wear. Full kit has all the rest.
 

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Here's a ~9200 mile run of Amsoil SS 5W-30.

6000 miles of this was spent on the highway in a 2 week timeframe; most of the rest was short trip in town driving with a few other longer highway trips thrown in here and there.



oil analysis Amsoil 5w-30.PNG
 

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Here's my first UOA and the timeline on this oil is November to early April. My '17 had about 2,100 miles at the November oil change and about 4,200 when I sampled it. I specifically sampled at the end of the cold season to see where I was on fuel dilution. This oil is still in the car. As I have noted in a previous thread it has a AC UPF64R oil filter
 

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First analysis on my 2016. M1 0W20 EP, M1-113A filter. 5k on oil, 20k on car. December-September on this oil.
Was not expecting "estimated" on fuel, nor was I expecting 30ppm on silicon (but I see it matches JBlackburn's 17k sample).
Checked factory installed air filter, looked more like 10k than 20k, no damage and correctly installed. Wondering if I contaminated the sample. Will sample again in 5k after very carefully cleaning the outside of the oil pan.

283972
oil analysis edited.png
 

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First analysis on my 2016. M1 0W20 EP, M1-113A filter.
Was not expecting "estimated" on fuel, nor was I expecting 30ppm on silicon (but I see it matches JBlackburn's 17k sample).
Checked factory installed air filter, looked more like 10k than 20k, no damage and correctly installed. Wondering if I contaminated the sample. Will sample again in 5k after very carefully cleaning the outside of the oil pan.

View attachment 283972 View attachment 283972
Interesting; silicon was flagged on one of mine too. I'd busted the intercooler at the time though.
 

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Don't most engine gaskets and sealants contain silicon now?
 
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Don't most engine gaskets and sealants contain silicon now?
Yes, it might still be from that at 20,000 miles.
I took comfort in JB's 17kmi silicon being identical until he said he had a busted FMIC.
Maybe it's time to pull the bumper off and carefully inspect the plumbing.
 

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Yes, it might still be from that at 20,000 miles.
I took comfort in JB's 17kmi silicon being identical until he said he had a busted FMIC.
Maybe it's time to pull the bumper off and carefully inspect the plumbing.
It may NOT have contributed anything, but that was my initial thought. The thought of gaskets/sealants hadn't even occurred to me. I'd hit a raccoon and limped it 100 miles back home with a boost leak.
 

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When I first saw the silicon I was worried about Nikasil/Alusil in the cylinders, but that would have caused high aluminum too. It looks like several of us have medium/high silicon, but not all of us.
Does @XtremeRevolution care to comment on our results?
Many of us have significant iron, is that because of the timing chain?
Where is wearable iron in the LE2, piston rings, timing drive, valve train?
 

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Many of us have significant iron, is that because of the timing chain?
Where is wearable iron in the LE2, piston rings, timing drive, valve train?
Each engine model will have its own common OA "normal" numbers. I am not sure what is normal on the LE2.

Sources of iron are possibly: Piston rings and cylinder bores, timing chain/gears, camshaft lobes, rockers and valve stems. Crankshaft, main and rod journals, oil pump, turbo. Most likely wear location is the cylinder bores.

I would not be worried about it at all right now. It is still under warranty. Keep monitoring it and see how it progresses.
 

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Sources of iron are possibly: Piston rings and cylinder bores, timing chain/gears, camshaft lobes, rockers and valve stems. Crankshaft, main and rod journals, oil pump, turbo. Most likely wear location is the cylinder bores.
I thought the LE2 was an unlined aluminum block with some kind of silicon/aluminum oxide surface treatment.
And the crank journals, probably the cam journals, are hard coated to prevent startup wear with the start-stop technology.
 

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I thought the LE2 was an unlined aluminum block with some kind of silicon/aluminum oxide surface treatment.
And the crank journals, probably the cam journals, are hard coated to prevent startup wear with the start-stop technology.
https://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm...ovation/powertrain/0624-cruze-powertrain.html

According to this GM information the cylinder bores are iron.

"For structural stiffness, the block has cast-in-place iron cylinder liners. The bedplate bulkheads also contain cast-in, nodular iron inserts for localized structural stiffness. A die-cast aluminum oil pan contributes additional structural strength."
 
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Here's the after-the-summer test on the last UOA from April. Both samples are the same oil but I did drain out about a quart over the 5200 mile interval just so I could use what remained of the 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 0w-20AP.
I changed it on Nov. 6th, so there really wasn't too much cold weather on this final sampling. Overall, for the way I drive, etc., it doesn't look like summer or winter really matter. One thing I was really looking for is if the oil smelled gassy. It didn't even a little and looking at the viscosity, if there's any fuel dilution, it's not much at all.
The biggest change is iron and that trended up with miles like they say it does. And hopefully the silicon will trend down with future oil changes. I'm sticking with the AC UPF64R filter too.
 

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Do these engines have Nikasil or Alusil lining in the cylinders? That seems pretty high-tech for one of GM's cheapest cars.
The Gen 1 1.4T did have some kinda anti-friction coating that wore off ~40-50k. I did not see a high silicon content on analyses on that one, though.

I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere on the Gen 2 powertrain documentation, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have it.
 

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I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere on the Gen 2 powertrain documentation, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have it.
I drive a diesel and that engine comes with cast iron cylinder liners. I was under the impression that the gasoline engines had the same thing. GM uses a precision casting technique where I believe the liners are in the engine block cores as they are cast with aluminium, and then maybe after that the iron liners are bored and honed.

Maybe Nikasil or Alusil is great, but I previously owned Subarus with the EJ engine. Those engines last FOREVER with their cast iron cylinder liners.
 

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I drive a diesel and that engine comes with cast iron cylinder liners. I was under the impression that the gasoline engines had the same thing. GM uses a precision casting technique where I believe the liners are in the engine block cores as they are cast with aluminium, and then maybe after that the iron liners are bored and honed.

Maybe Nikasil or Alusil is great, but I previously owned Subarus with the EJ engine. Those engines last FOREVER with their cast iron cylinder liners.
Yeah, looks like cast iron inserts on the LE2. The Gen 1 was iron block.


I'll keep my Subaru comments in check, but I wouldn't say the EJ25 is known for reliability.
 
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