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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
GM 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Valve Fix Kits


Overview
These fix kits apply to the following vehicles with the GM 1.4L Turbo LUJ/LUV/A14NET engine:
2011-2016 Limited 1.4L Cruze
2011-2018 Chevy Sonic/Aveo
2015+ Chevy Trax
2015+ Buick Encore
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Corsa (Turbo only)
2009+ Opel/Vauxhall Astra J (Turbo only)
2010+ Opel/Vauxhall Meriva B
2011+ Opel/Vauxhall Zafira Tourer


SCROLL DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST FOR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

The 1.4L Turbo engine (LUJ/LUV) in the Chevy Cruze/Sonic/Trax and Buick Encore has a check valve in the intake manifold that has a 100% failure rate. Out of warranty, it can cost as much as $350 to replace. There is no redesigned part for this (at the time of this post's writing), and new intake manifolds are still failing regularly after about 30,000-60,000 miles. The Dorman intake reportedly has the same flawed design. This thread presents two fix options that can be implemented for between $85 (V2) and $130 (V1), which is cheaper than all other aftermarket options.

DISCLAIMER: This solution has received validation testing and is currently considered reliable. To ensure a proper install, MAKE SURE YOU READ AND UNDERSTAND EVERYTHING IN THIS POST. Neither myself nor CruzeTalk.com accept any liability for what happens during or after the installation of this kit. This kit is only being offered for convenience; it is your responsibility to ensure that all of the components of the kit are clean and are in good operating condition. For full disclaimer, click here.

Read the first post on the following thread, which explains how our PCV system works and will help you understand the solution better:
2011-2016 Cruze Limited 1.4L PCV System Explained

The basic principle is simple. You have two chambers; the intake downstream of the throttle body, and the PCV chamber. You need to allow gas to freely flow from the PCV chamber into the intake chamber when the engine is under vacuum (not producing boost), but block that flow of gas when the engine is producing boost. You need to be able to do this while sustaining pressures of 15-30psi (stock/tuned vehicles). The OEM intake manifold check valve serves this function decently well, while it works, but the check valve stops sealing well after a few thousand miles, producing an audible boost leak, and eventually disappears altogether. This solution offers you the opportunity to cleanly retrofit a durable, leak-free external check valve that can be serviced easily and replaced for $15-$25 should the check valve itself ever fail.

Benefits to this fix kit are:
  • Eliminates boost leak caused by aged, worn, or clogged OEM check valve
  • Solves boost leak, loss of power, poor fuel economy, and oil consumption caused by missing OEM check valve
  • The new external check valve is easily accessible for cleaning, and can be replaced for $10-$20
  • Stops oil consumption caused by missing check valve. Oil consumption will cause carbon build up on the piston crown and ring lands, which can cause detonation and piston damage.
  • Much longer lasting than the OEM check valve due to more robust design.
This design is patent pending.

PCV Fix Kit Comparison
I have three kits available for fixing this PCV system. Here are here are the differences between them:

V1 Kit: This is the original PCV fix kit. This kit routes the PCV gas through a check valve into a BNR throttle body spacer. Because this kit requires a throttle body spacer, it is more expensive to use if you don't already have the spacer. However, those who already have a BNR throttle body spacer, or want one for other purposes will find the V1 kit cheaper by $10. One benefit to this kit is that the check valve can be removed for inspection or cleaning by disconnecting the throttle body spacer, which doesn't require intake manifold removal.

V2.1 Kit: I designed the original V2 kit to reduce the cost of this fix as it doens't require the BNR throttle body spacer. Instead of returning the PCV gas to a BNR throttle body spacer like the V1 kit does, the V2.1 kit uses a Y fitting on the EVAP purge line or optionally, a brake booster tee fititng. While the adapter and some components add to the cost of the kit itself, the V2 kit saves you $50 as you no longer need to buy a separate BNR throttle body spacer. Please note that the check valve cannot be easily removed for inspection without pulling the intake manifold itself. However, the check valve is extremely robust and over-built for this application. The V2 kit is also easier and quicker to install and does not require the inch-pound torque wrench you need to get the throttle body spacer and throttle body back on. Please note, however, that the optional brake booster tee fitting should be checked and cleaned (if necessary) about at least every 50,000 miles or 2 years

V3 Kit: The V3 kit is the most recent PCV fix kit design, with a completely top-side installation that in most cases, does not require intake manifold removal. The V3 kit also replaces the OEM PCV pipe (the corrugated/accordion hose from the intake manifold to the turbo, which has a high rate of failure due to cracking) while re-using the terminals. The V3 kit's check valve is also easily serviceable without intake manifold removal.

Purchase Details:
Orders are handled on my website at CruzeKits.com.

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Alternate Order Options
Please contact me for multiple-order discounts if you need to purchase more than one kit at a time, if you need a re-install kit, or if you need any replacement parts. I can also ship overnight via UPS if needed.



Installation Instructions
V1 Fix Kit Instructions: How-To: GM 1.4L LUV/LUJ PCV Fix Kit V1 Install

V2.1 Fix Kit Instructions: Coming Soon

V3 Fix Kit Instructions:
 

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FYI:
Clicked on the link for the Bonomi Check Valve and got a link is not valid error message.

Great idea and great write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
FYI:
Clicked on the link for the Bonomi Check Valve and got a link is not valid error message.

Great idea and great write up.
I have a request out to AG for that issue. Right-click the thread and copy the link, and go to it manually and you'll be able to get to it.
 

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Great post, as this alternative is serviceable if issues arise without future intake removal.

I just wanted to mention that Rockauto has the full intake for $270 before their traditional 5% off. Granted the part might fail again, but you'll have to evaluate the current cost of a new GM intake, vs. modifications.

Also playing into this decision is the age of the car, and how long you plan on keeping it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great post, as this alternative is serviceable if issues arise without future intake removal.

I just wanted to mention that Rockauto has the full intake for $270 before their traditional 5% off. Granted the part might fail again, but you'll have to evaluate the current cost of a new GM intake, vs. modifications.

Also playing into this decision is the age of the car, and how long you plan on keeping it.
That about cancels out the shipping, and the manifold is still ~$270, which is about double what this fix costs, and that manifold is guaranteed to fail again. Not that the price is going to make that much of a difference; $270 is still a lot of money.
 

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While a number of them have failed, has anyone kept tabs on the years that failed? I'm wondering if this is something GM fixed in later years.
 

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Quick off-topic question: what would the TB spacer be used for if not in this application? I'm familiar with the use of reed cage spacers on two-strokes and their purpose, wondering if this serves the same purpose?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quick off-topic question: what would the TB spacer be used for if not in this application? I'm familiar with the use of reed cage spacers on two-strokes and their purpose, wondering if this serves the same purpose?
Nitrous or meth injection.

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I've seen them fail various years and I've seen replacements fail, so they definitely didn't address the issue.

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That is just unbelievable to me that they don't address the problem.
I am going to remember this the next time I spend $20,000.

I guess the only thing we can do is keep it as clean as possible.
I have been using this twice a year. When I change the oil filter in the spring and then the oil and filter in the fall.

AMSOIL Power Foam®


I do the normal throttle body cleaning according to the instructions on the can while the car is running but I check and see if I see the check valve and clean up check valve. Don't know if it makes a difference but I figure it couldn't hurt.
 

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That is just unbelievable to me that they don't address the problem.
I am going to remember this the next time I spend $20,000.

I guess the only thing we can do is keep it as clean as possible.
I have been using this twice a year. When I change the oil filter in the spring and then the oil and filter in the fall.

AMSOIL Power Foam®


I do the normal throttle body cleaning according to the instructions on the can while the car is running but I check and see if I see the check valve and clean up check valve. Don't know if it makes a difference but I figure it couldn't hurt.
You'd think they'd fix this by now. I had a fellow Cruze owner come by my house this morning since I said I'd change his oil for him with some AMSOIL. I sent him away without having his oil changed. Check valve was gone. I've noticed when that fails, engine starts leaking all over.

CPASV seals, oil pan seal, valve cover gasket, all leaking. Engine looked worse than my 333k mile Sierra, oil oozing out of ever orifice.

They haven't fixed it and I doubt they will. It's a stupid design and GM should be ashamed. This should be covered under a special coverage warranty like the water pump and negative battery cable given how frequently they fail.

I haven't found anyway to prevent it from happening. I ran synthetic oil, I ran power foam just like you do, and mine still failed earlier this year.

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A $2 valve fails and you have to replace a $300 manifold?! It will be interesting to see how this solution actually performs. This is probably how it should have been designed in the first place.

This reminds me a little of the intake manifold on my old Saturn SL. The engineers decided not to put a bolt in the top outer corner of the #1 cylinder intake. About every 3 years the gasket would get sucked into the manifold in that corner and create a small vacuum leak. I didn't notice it until I failed the first smog test (which is at 5 years in California). It actually made me wonder if it was purposefully designed this way so that the dealers could make money replacing intake gaskets.
 

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You'd think they'd fix this by now. I had a fellow Cruze owner come by my house this morning since I said I'd change his oil for him with some AMSOIL. I sent him away without having his oil changed. Check valve was gone. I've noticed when that fails, engine starts leaking all over.

CPASV seals, oil pan seal, valve cover gasket, all leaking. Engine looked worse than my 333k mile Sierra, oil oozing out of ever orifice.
Off-topic question: why? Yes, without the valve the turbo boost will come though the holes in the intake manifold, but wouldn't it just flow out the other pipe to the turbo inlet? I'm not seeing how the crankcase would get pressurized just because that valve is missing.
 

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Off-topic question: why? Yes, without the valve the turbo boost will come though the holes in the intake manifold, but wouldn't it just flow out the other pipe to the turbo inlet? I'm not seeing how the crankcase would get pressurized just because that valve is missing.
To be honest, I'm still trying to figure that one out, but the exact same thing happened on my vehicle and another member recently on CruzeTalk FB and I don't think it's coincidence.
 

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You'd think they'd fix this by now. I had a fellow Cruze owner come by my house this morning since I said I'd change his oil for him with some AMSOIL. I sent him away without having his oil changed. Check valve was gone. I've noticed when that fails, engine starts leaking all over.

CPASV seals, oil pan seal, valve cover gasket, all leaking. Engine looked worse than my 333k mile Sierra, oil oozing out of ever orifice.

They haven't fixed it and I doubt they will. It's a stupid design and GM should be ashamed. This should be covered under a special coverage warranty like the water pump and negative battery cable given how frequently they fail.

I haven't found anyway to prevent it from happening. I ran synthetic oil, I ran power foam just like you do, and mine still failed earlier this year.

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Did you have any symptoms when your check valve failed? Or did you just look and saw it was gone?

Worries me when you say it is a stupid design. :)

I guess if I can get another 45,000 miles out of it I can't complain. lol - but I won't hold my breath. Still waiting to get more than 20,000 miles out of a water pump. That will happen in about another 12,000 miles :) Luckily the cruze is kind of our second family car. Daughter is driving our old 2007 mazda 3s and wife it driving a 2015 Rav4. I can work from home so if my car dies it isn't a complete emergency.

Our mazda 3s engine has been perfect except for an o2 sensor about a year ago. But it still doesn't burn a drop of oil and still shifts the same as day one because I have been using Amsoil in it since day one. The thing about it is we were going to trade the mazda in when the rav4 was paid off and give my daughter the cruze but I am not going to give her the cruze because I want to sleep at night and not worry about her being stranded which is ashame. So I will probably just drive the cruze till the wheels fall off or it gets to expensive to repair - whatever comes first.
 

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Did you have any symptoms when your check valve failed? Or did you just look and saw it was gone?

Worries me when you say it is a stupid design. :)

I guess if I can get another 45,000 miles out of it I can't complain. lol - but I won't hold my breath. Still waiting to get more than 20,000 miles out of a water pump. That will happen in about another 12,000 miles :) Luckily the cruze is kind of our second family car. Daughter is driving our old 2007 mazda 3s and wife it driving a 2015 Rav4. I can work from home so if my car dies it isn't a complete emergency.

Our mazda 3s engine has been perfect except for an o2 sensor about a year ago. But it still doesn't burn a drop of oil and still shifts the same as day one because I have been using Amsoil in it since day one. The thing about it is we were going to trade the mazda in when the rav4 was paid off and give my daughter the cruze but I am not going to give her the cruze because I want to sleep at night and not worry about her being stranded which is ashame. So I will probably just drive the cruze till the wheels fall off or it gets to expensive to repair - whatever comes first.
Check valve failure was accompanied by very unusual oil consumption. On this car, any oil consumption while using AMSOIL is unusual, and I found myself topping off. The oil pan gasket started leaking as did the CPASV seals at the same time.

I don't think this vehicle will be too expensive to keep for a long time. Today, I bought a spare turbo with 13k miles on it from a 2012 car for $145 shipped from someone who sold his Cruze.

Unless the pistons go, you can pretty much fix every issue common to this engine combined for the cost of a car payment if you do it yourself. I'm not worried about that, I'm more worried about all the rust is going to start showing up.

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Did you have any symptoms when your check valve failed? Or did you just look and saw it was gone?

Worries me when you say it is a stupid design. :)

I guess if I can get another 45,000 miles out of it I can't complain. lol - but I won't hold my breath. Still waiting to get more than 20,000 miles out of a water pump. That will happen in about another 12,000 miles :) Luckily the cruze is kind of our second family car. Daughter is driving our old 2007 mazda 3s and wife it driving a 2015 Rav4. I can work from home so if my car dies it isn't a complete emergency.

Our mazda 3s engine has been perfect except for an o2 sensor about a year ago. But it still doesn't burn a drop of oil and still shifts the same as day one because I have been using Amsoil in it since day one. The thing about it is we were going to trade the mazda in when the rav4 was paid off and give my daughter the cruze but I am not going to give her the cruze because I want to sleep at night and not worry about her being stranded which is ashame. So I will probably just drive the cruze till the wheels fall off or it gets to expensive to repair - whatever comes first.
From top of my head, if the ball is gone it "eventually causes" the cam cover PCV to fail and then you are replacing the Cam cover and the Intake mani. Some dealerships were just replacing the Cam cover and then the missing ball "eventually" takes out the new Cam cover.
 

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i had no indications that my check valve was gone until my 2011 eco threw P0171 and P0299 codes. Initial searches said bad turbo but i dug deeper and found XtremeRevolution's posts in the Gen1 pcv explained thread and checked the burst disk (blown, sucking air at idle) and pcv valve (gone from the intake). The car went from driving fine to not, no warning.
 

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i had no indications that my check valve was gone until my 2011 eco threw P0171 and P0299 codes. Initial searches said bad turbo but i dug deeper and found XtremeRevolution's posts in the Gen1 pcv explained thread and checked the burst disk (blown, sucking air at idle) and pcv valve (gone from the intake). The car went from driving fine to not, no warning.
I think you'll find that replacing the cam cover takes you back to "driving fine" - it just won't last very long. At this point, I'm sure that the PCV valve in the cover is what controls the quantity of the flow. The other valves just control direction. But there's still some details that don't quite add up.
 
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