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Discussion Starter #21
Initial pictures were mostly a mock up design but I've started actually fitting this to install on my car. First thing was cleaning up that intake. Took off the gaskets and used half a can of brake clean and a brush.



This next photo is a picture of the missing check valve through its port after scrubbing it with the brush. Some of that residue doesn't come off but I got the area around the hole I drilled and the check valve port cleaned.



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Discussion Starter #22
Installed the plug today. #10 stainless self-drilling screw and a 7/16" nylon washer. I used plastic epoxy to bond everything together. I used a telescoping screwdriver with a bit attachment to drive the screw in. The epoxy, washer, and screw can be purchased at any local hardware store.



First, drive the screw half way into the center hole for the check valve dry to start the thread, then back out.

Place the washer over the screw, and liberally coat the screw thread with epoxy.



Using a flathead screwdriver, liberally apply some epoxy to the check valve hole, entering from the top port.

Next, carefully, being sure not to touch the walls, drive the screw back into the hole all the way to the end. IMPORTANT NOTE; don't over-tighten the screw. Screw it in till it hits the end, then lightly tighten until it's snug.

At this point, the epoxy should have bonded to the screw, the washer, the surface of the port, and should have been pressed through the outer holes on the port to produce an excellent bond. However, if you want to use up the remaining epoxy on your mix surface, feel free to load it up around the screw wherever you feel like it.



Be sure to wipe off the screwdriver you're using after every single application. That stuff dries fast and you'll be scraping it off later.

Full cure takes 24 hours. Once it's cured, it's permanently sealed.

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Discussion Starter #23
Got the final fitment done. I discovered it works better when the reducer elbow is mounted to the hole closer to the runners. Going to install this in the next few days.





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Initial pictures were mostly a mock up design but I've started actually fitting this to install on my car. First thing was cleaning up that intake. Took off the gaskets and used half a can of brake clean and a brush.



This next photo is a picture of the missing check valve through its port after scrubbing it with the brush. Some of that residue doesn't come off but I got the area around the hole I drilled and the check valve port cleaned.



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the inside looks like an old rusted water pipe. I would think it would be oily.
 

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So what happens with the check valve down on the turbo end of the PCV line, does that just remain closed since the existing PCV line from the intake manifold to the turbo will not be used?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So what happens with the check valve down on the turbo end of the PCV line, does that just remain closed since the existing PCV line from the intake manifold to the turbo will not be used?
It does the same thing it did before; it opens when the vehicle has positive crankcase pressure and the intake is under boost to relieve that pressure, and closes when intake pressure is less than -1/2PSI.

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What is gonna prevent oil from entering that bypass tube? Are we still relying on the built in separator in the cam cover. No catch can?
 

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What is gonna prevent oil from entering that bypass tube? Are we still relying on the built in separator in the cam cover. No catch can?
Yes. While the new hole comes up from the bottom, if you look at the first post, you'll see that the actual intake is well above the "floor".

I do wonder if there could be some purpose to that long passageway to the old valve that's not obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
What is gonna prevent oil from entering that bypass tube? Are we still relying on the built in separator in the cam cover. No catch can?
Nothing really. I greatly dislike the idea of a catch can due to required maintenance and minimal (if not nonexistent) benefit with a working PCV system. We are relying on the built in separator in the cam cover. Catch cans get very annoying as you're constantly draining condensation, and it's even more annoying when they fill up to far, you forget (or are too lazy to because it's cold outside), and all the water inside freezes and blocks the PCV path entirely. You've probably heard me say this before, but when I don't burn any measurable amount of oil in a 15,622 mile oil drain interval, a catch can is pointless.

Yes. While the new hole comes up from the bottom, if you look at the first post, you'll see that the actual intake is well above the "floor".

I do wonder if there could be some purpose to that long passageway to the old valve that's not obvious.
There's no purpose to it; it's just a chamber. I assume it's there because they wanted it to be in the middle of the path between the cylinder head and the corrugated hose.
 

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Are you referring the intake is above the floor to the space the nut is?
I think we're in agreement. The added pipe does come from the bottom, but because of the height of the nut, it's not sucking stuff from the floor of the chamber.
 

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It looks promising. I'm interested in the next oil analysis - just to make sure there's no surprises. I think that will be the "proof".
 

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Discussion Starter #35
It looks promising. I'm interested in the next oil analysis - just to make sure there's no surprises. I think that will be the "proof".
I honestly don't think an oil analysis will show any different whether or not you're using this. The big factor will be whether or not there's any oil consumption.
 

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I honestly don't think an oil analysis will show any different whether or not you're using this. The big factor will be whether or not there's any oil consumption.
You could be right. But I have this uneasy feeling that there's some subtleties to the factory design that could set the stage for a surprise. I just think a oil analysis after the first full oil cycle after this modification would be wise. Since you do them anyway, there's no downside.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
You could be right. But I have this uneasy feeling that there's some subtleties to the factory design that could set the stage for a surprise. I just think a oil analysis after the first full oil cycle after this modification would be wise. Since you do them anyway, there's no downside.
Well, think about it. If the PCV gas doesn't go through the check valve in the intake manifold, where does it go? Through the check valve on the turbo inlet. Either way, that PCV gas gets evacuated from the engine.

Assuming the burst disk is intact, you're not sucking in outside air so you aren't exposing the oil to as much moisture. The function between the two check valves is the same, it's simply re-routed. It won't show up in an oil analysis because there's nothing in this that affects oil. The only differences between the two designs are going to boil down to actual flow rate through the check valve and crack pressure, and the minor difference between the two in that regard is not enough to make a consequential difference in the condition of the oil.

I have 7,000 miles on my change currently and I work from home full time, so it will be many months before I get an analysis report taken.
 

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XR you really went above and beyond on this fix, Its robust and is = to factory operation.

Should be fully California ready
 

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Well, think about it.
The problem is not knowing what we don't know.
Two items: First, neither of us is understanding how that missing valve causes the crankcase to pressurize when it should just go to the turbo inlet. Secondly, I don't want to beat a horse that might be dead, but my older cars took pains to create a fresh air draft though the valve covers. And they made sure it took the "long path" to do so. (The length of the cover for the inline, from one bank to the other for the V6.) Why doesn't the Cruze? Either the need has changed, or there's a hidden trick to the design. So, that's two items of things we "don't know". But if there's no obvious problems like oil consumption and the oil analysis comes up clean, then that takes care of any failure modes I can think of.
 

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Built my attempt at a fix, based mostly on this plan but ordering all parts but the throttle block from Amazon (I buy a lot of stuff from there). As an aside, the price for the valve cover was only $70 from the local dealership, which would have been a lot faster as they had both the valve cover and intake in stock. The intake was $470 though, so I had to wait for the other parts to get here.

I used all barbed connections. The downside is that at least between the throttle body spacer and the check valve, you need them clamped, since that'll be seeing some pressure.
20170129_210748.jpg

Detail shot of the nut - I only used the washer outside, based on the idea that that was the biggest sealing surface. I also went with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter instead of the 1/4" to 1/4", so I had to step it back down before going to the angle, which also made my valve hang out a bit further - but there is plenty of room there for this. It makes me kind of surprised that they didn't go with the external valve, at least in the redesign - I wonder how much the warranty coverage cost them.
20170129_210814.jpg

Seems to work so far. I took it for a short drive tonight. Wife will use the car as normal tomorrow. It does seem a bit more peppy than the last time I drove it, which might have been due to lost boost from the intake valve failing first. Either that, or her car is just more peppy in general than my old winter beater...
 
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