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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Built my attempt at a fix, based mostly on this plan but ordering all parts but the throttle block from Amazon (I buy a lot of stuff from there). As an aside, the price for the valve cover was only $70 from the local dealership, which would have been a lot faster as they had both the valve cover and intake in stock. The intake was $470 though, so I had to wait for the other parts to get here.

I used all barbed connections. The downside is that at least between the throttle body spacer and the check valve, you need them clamped, since that'll be seeing some pressure.
View attachment 218114

Detail shot of the nut - I only used the washer outside, based on the idea that that was the biggest sealing surface. I also went with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter instead of the 1/4" to 1/4", so I had to step it back down before going to the angle, which also made my valve hang out a bit further - but there is plenty of room there for this. It makes me kind of surprised that they didn't go with the external valve, at least in the redesign - I wonder how much the warranty coverage cost them.
View attachment 218122

Seems to work so far. I took it for a short drive tonight. Wife will use the car as normal tomorrow. It does seem a bit more peppy than the last time I drove it, which might have been due to lost boost from the intake valve failing first. Either that, or her car is just more peppy in general than my old winter beater...
My design initially used a brass ball check valve. The problem with that check valve is that the crack pressure was too high. You see, we don't have all that much vacuum on this engine. At idle, the intake pulls -2.5 psi of vacuum. Refer to the attached image. This was taken by a fellow member, in gear, AC on, 74 degrees out. The hotter it gets, the less vacuum we have. 6inHg = -3 PSI. I also attached another image from another member that used a ScanGauge.

Every resource I found on those 1/4" aluminum check valves (which are designed for fuel) indicated a -3 PSI crack pressure. The most difficult part of this project was finding a suitable check valve that would crack open at a similar pressure as the OEM check valve, which was barely under 0 PSI. The check valve I found (and linked in the original post) has a crack pressure of 1/2 PSI.

Produzione di articolo 100012%20LF - LEAD FREE PRODUCT - IN-LINE CHECK VALVE - Vendita di RUBINETTERIE BRESCIANE | www.bonominorthamerica.com

I spent many hours looking for this check valve. Your check valve cracks at too high a pressure and as a result, will direct too much (and in most cases, all) PCV gas through the turbo inlet.

I would strongly recommend revising your design to include the Bonomi check valve, unless you can find another one that cracks at a comparable pressure for a comparable price.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Finally installed this on my car today. I'll make a tutorial on pulling the intake manifold as well soon

Drove 34 miles, 30 of which were highway. No leaks, and no problems so far.







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Got mine installed Sunday. The first day was ok until it got fully hot and then I got the cel and lower power. Turns out the hose I used was too weak and collapsed. Just swapped it for some extremely thick 3/8" oil hose (Amazon only had 3/8" barb not 1/4") and upon startup I had no cel. Tomorrow will tell but at first it ran like a champ


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2011-2016 Cruze 1.4L Turbo Intake Manifold PCV Check Valve Fix

Same configuration exactly. The hose I had on hand was I thought strong enough but it didn't have a braided core. I was hopeful but when I checked it had collapsed and then seemed to have gotten malleable and stayed collapsed. The new hose has nearly 1/4" thick walls with a thick braided core and barely bends. I checked at idle and it was just as rigid as before, we shall see how it is tomorrow

The only difference between our setups was that they were sold out of 1/4" barbed fittings so I got appropriate 3/8" fittings.


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Discussion Starter #46
Here's the stuff I used. I added a link to this in the original post so people have a better idea of what they should be looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UOFRD6/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=xtremere0c-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B000UOFRD6&linkId=4ca8ea55754a8dbed702ee1142580266

I'm still really confused why you had a CEL and low power. You sure you didn't forget to plug something in or maybe had something unrelated going on? Even if this hose fails, it shouldn't throw a CEL unless it doesn't seal correctly and starts leaking at the barbs, which I suppose is a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Kinda unrelated but what's the braided hose tapping into your valve cover for?



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Bypass oil filter install. See attached picture. It takes about 10% of the oil passing through the oil pressure sender port and filters it down to 2 microns at 98.7% efficiency, 1 micron at 50% efficiency, and 3 microns at 100% efficiency, absolute. I replace the filter every 30k miles.

Upon closer inspection this morning the old hose did crack along where it met the barbs.


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That would certainly explain it then. You were pulling in unmetered air.
 

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Bypass oil filter install. See attached picture. It takes about 10% of the oil passing through the oil pressure sender port and filters it down to 2 microns at 98.7% efficiency, 1 micron at 50% efficiency, and 3 microns at 100% efficiency, absolute. I replace the filter every 30k miles.



That would certainly explain it then. You were pulling in unmetered air.
That was exactly the problem. New hose installed and it ran great today on my way in to work


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Bypass oil filter install. See attached picture. It takes about 10% of the oil passing through the oil pressure sender port and filters it down to 2 microns at 98.7% efficiency, 1 micron at 50% efficiency, and 3 microns at 100% efficiency, absolute. I replace the filter every 30k miles.



That would certainly explain it then. You were pulling in unmetered air.
Did you happen to write up a post on the bypass filter install?
 

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So after reading all these awesome right ups of the pcv system on these cars I'm almost certain I'm having the same issue with the manifold pcv valve being busted but I just want to run it by you guys and double check the symtoms I'm having with my car. About 6-8 months ago I replaced the valve cover because of the pcv burst disk being blown so i replaced it and it ran good for a little while and now I'm having issues again more so now than ever, I noticed oil leaking onto my turbo housing and after serious investigation it is seeping past the intercooler boot and touching the turbo and burning the oil up and gets annoying actually because you can smell it when you come to a stop with the blower fan on! I have oil all throughout my throttle body and intake tubing, the turbo check valve corrugated hose, and I'm assuming all throughout the intercooler and intercooler piping as well. Will this fix that you deigned fix my issue I'm having?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
So after reading all these awesome right ups of the pcv system on these cars I'm almost certain I'm having the same issue with the manifold pcv valve being busted but I just want to run it by you guys and double check the symtoms I'm having with my car. About 6-8 months ago I replaced the valve cover because of the pcv burst disk being blown so i replaced it and it ran good for a little while and now I'm having issues again more so now than ever, I noticed oil leaking onto my turbo housing and after serious investigation it is seeping past the intercooler boot and touching the turbo and burning the oil up and gets annoying actually because you can smell it when you come to a stop with the blower fan on! I have oil all throughout my throttle body and intake tubing, the turbo check valve corrugated hose, and I'm assuming all throughout the intercooler and intercooler piping as well. Will this fix that you deigned fix my issue I'm having?
Check the intake manifold for the missing check valve. Pull the corrugated hose and look inside and check if there's a PCV check valve or not. If you don't see one through all the filth from using cheap oils, clean it out with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. If you still don't see it, you need to either replace the intake manifold for ~$300+, or install this modification on your vehicle if you feel mechanically inclined enough. Until you fix the check valve, you'll keep blowing through valve covers.

This will fix one of your problems, but may not fix all. I can't really diagnose your vehicle over the internet. Check to make sure your turbo oil feed line isn't leaking, as that is also a common leak point. Your oil pan gasket may also be leaking if your check valve went, but that may stop leaking after you fix it.
 

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Thanks XR! I actually replaced both feed and return turbo lines because I initially though that was the problem and that's when I took hoses off and throttle body and saw all the oil. Next thing I'm going to check is for the pcv check valve in the manifold.
 

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So I tried to take a look for the missing check valve and I'm not sure if I'm looking in the right area or what. I pulled the corrugated hose off of the intake manifold itself and all I can see is straight down through the hole of the where the corrugated hose connects and it's clean and it looks like just plastic?? I feel like I need to be looking deeper inside that channel but I'm not sure how
 

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Discussion Starter #57
So I tried to take a look for the missing check valve and I'm not sure if I'm looking in the right area or what. I pulled the corrugated hose off of the intake manifold itself and all I can see is straight down through the hole of the where the corrugated hose connects and it's clean and it looks like just plastic?? I feel like I need to be looking deeper inside that channel but I'm not sure how
That's the correct spot. Looking down there, you should see an orange nipple on the side closest to the firewall. If it's not there, you'll have to do this mod or replace the intake manifold. Get a q-tip and clean it just in case.

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Discussion Starter #59
I'm going to put another 100 miles on the car tomorrow, and if oil consumption looks fine, which I have no reason to believe it won't, I'll start putting together kits for people who want to order these.

Is anyone interested in a kit right now? Just so I know how any kits' worth of parts I need to pick up.

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I'm going to put another 100 miles on the car tomorrow, and if oil consumption looks fine, which I have no reason to believe it won't, I'll start putting together kits for people who want to order these.

Is anyone interested in a kit right now? Just so I know how any kits' worth of parts I need to pick up.

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I'd be interested! Been following this thread and your other PCV System Explained thread, Intake Removal thread, and I know sooner or later I'm going to have to do this.
Count me in!
 
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