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Discussion Starter #642
XtremeRevolution....My 16 Limited has 31k miles on it. I have no CEL or weird smells and purrs like a kitten. I would however want some peace and mind but doing the V3 kit before it all goes south. What would you recommend? Is it possible to install the kit without a failed PVC system. Thanks.
It is possible. You have to break the tip off the old check valve first in order to install it, with a flathead screwdriver. After that, you can just install the kit with nothing else needed.

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I see, wh
It is possible. You have to break the tip off the old check valve first in order to install it, with a flathead screwdriver. After that, you can just install the kit with nothing else needed.

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When will the V3 kit be available? I dont see it on your site, it seems to be the easiest way without taking the motor apart. Id like to order it ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter #645
I see, wh

When will the V3 kit be available? I dont see it on your site, it seems to be the easiest way without taking the motor apart. Id like to order it ASAP.
It's on the site. Last product on the list.

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XtremeRevolution....My 16 Limited has 31k miles on it. I have no CEL or weird smells and purrs like a kitten. I would however want some peace and mind but doing the V3 kit before it all goes south. What would you recommend? Is it possible to install the kit without a failed PVC system. Thanks.
You have to use an ampersand before the name to make the tag work - but to answer your question, you can install the kit without worry about causing more issues. As a caveat to that, any time you start twisting hoses, stressing plastic connections etc, you still run the risk of creating more issues, but all of them are easily fixable. So I would install the kit myself.
 

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First of all this is my first post. Hello everyone! I have had my 2015 Cruze since 2016 and had the intake failure that is described in this thread, rough idle and service engine light on. Did I quick YouTube search and came across the video showing the suction in the diaphragm on the valve cover. So I replaced that cover and didn’t think anything else about it. Well about two weeks later the rough idle was back and now the engine is leaking oil at almost every gasket on the thing. So did more research and figured out I need to replace the intake, and need to replace the valve cover again. So I bought those again but haven’t installed yet. My question is should I go ahead and order and install the V1 pcv kit also to bulletproof this thing? Hopefully after I do that and install this stuff the oil leaks at the gaskets will stop. It’s a daily driver and I watch the oil like a hawk, I plan to do this next weekend, do you guys think the car is safe to drive until then as long as I keep a eve on the oil level, or should I not drive at all?
 

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First of all this is my first post. Hello everyone! I have had my 2015 Cruze since 2016 and had the intake failure that is described in this thread, rough idle and service engine light on. Did I quick YouTube search and came across the video showing the suction in the diaphragm on the valve cover. So I replaced that cover and didn’t think anything else about it. Well about two weeks later the rough idle was back and now the engine is leaking oil at almost every gasket on the thing. So did more research and figured out I need to replace the intake, and need to replace the valve cover again. So I bought those again but haven’t installed yet. My question is should I go ahead and order and install the V1 pcv kit also to bulletproof this thing? Hopefully after I do that and install this stuff the oil leaks at the gaskets will stop. It’s a daily driver and I watch the oil like a hawk, I plan to do this next weekend, do you guys think the car is safe to drive until then as long as I keep a eve on the oil level, or should I not drive at all?
Yes you should and then you don't need a new intake manifold, you can use the existing one. It's safe to drive.
 

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First of all this is my first post. Hello everyone! I have had my 2015 Cruze since 2016 and had the intake failure that is described in this thread, rough idle and service engine light on. Did I quick YouTube search and came across the video showing the suction in the diaphragm on the valve cover. So I replaced that cover and didn’t think anything else about it. Well about two weeks later the rough idle was back and now the engine is leaking oil at almost every gasket on the thing. So did more research and figured out I need to replace the intake, and need to replace the valve cover again. So I bought those again but haven’t installed yet. My question is should I go ahead and order and install the V1 pcv kit also to bulletproof this thing? Hopefully after I do that and install this stuff the oil leaks at the gaskets will stop. It’s a daily driver and I watch the oil like a hawk, I plan to do this next weekend, do you guys think the car is safe to drive until then as long as I keep a eve on the oil level, or should I not drive at all?
Welcome Aboard!(y)

I second Thebigzeus's assessment. Return the intake and buy one of the kits. If you do not foresee needing a throttle body spacer, get the V3 kit as you can install it without removing the intake.

www.cruzekits.com

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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Hey Andre,

I installed your kit just shy of 2 years ago. Today my brake pedal got really stiff and braking became very sluggish/difficult. Seems like I lost my brake booster pump or something.

I went ahead and took off my intake manifold again to see how this kit was doing, wondering if it could be related. I found that the PCV airway in the cylinder head is almost completely clogged with gunk. It's a hard black substance that smells like burnt oil, which will crumble if pressed hard enough. I'll insert a pic.

FYI I tried sucking/blowing on the valve from your kit, and it's still opening and closing as expected.

Do you (or anyone) know what could be causing this? Would really appreciate any responses because this baby will not be put back together again until I can figure out what I need to do. Thank you!


285628
 

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Discussion Starter #652 (Edited)
Hey Andre,

I installed your kit just shy of 2 years ago. Today my brake pedal got really stiff and braking became very sluggish/difficult. Seems like I lost my brake booster pump or something.

I went ahead and took off my intake manifold again to see how this kit was doing, wondering if it could be related. I found that the PCV airway in the cylinder head is almost completely clogged with gunk. It's a hard black substance that smells like burnt oil, which will crumble if pressed hard enough. I'll insert a pic.

FYI I tried sucking/blowing on the valve from your kit, and it's still opening and closing as expected.

Do you (or anyone) know what could be causing this? Would really appreciate any responses because this baby will not be put back together again until I can figure out what I need to do. Thank you!


View attachment 285628
Sent you a PM just now.

Did you install the v1 or the v2 kit?

The v2 kit uses a brake booster tee fitting that basically splices into that connection, but it's installed down below the bend so there wouldn't be any chance of oil going up into the brake booster itself (plus there's a check valve in the way), and if the tee fitting were to get dirty, it would happen gradually over time, not all of a sudden.

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Thanks for your response. I installed the v2 kit. I'll insert another pic of the intake manifold -- although I had mostly cleaned out the PCV area already in the pic.

I agree this happened gradually over time. But what causes it? What would you do to address this?

I may be in over my head at this point and will just take it to a repair shop, unless anyone has some easy to follow advice. Thanks!

285629
 

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Discussion Starter #654
Thanks for your response. I installed the v2 kit. I'll insert another pic of the intake manifold -- although I had mostly cleaned out the PCV area already in the pic.

I agree this happened gradually over time. But what causes it? What would you do to address this?

I may be in over my head at this point and will just take it to a repair shop, unless anyone has some easy to follow advice. Thanks!
Check your PMs I sent you a message. Give me a call, I have a few things for you to check. My business line is 219-779-7742. Give me a call tonight so I can help you diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #655
FYI to anyone else reading this, just spoke to him over the phone. We were able to drill the issue down a little further. The brake booster tee fitting was still clear, which was my only concern in case some of those deposits may have found their way through and caused some kind of obstruction. That wasn't the case, and the nipple coming off of the intake manifold was clear enough to blow through as well. If anyone else finds this thread and is trying to chase down a similar issue, check all hoses and connections for potentail cracks or breaks, and if all looks good, the brake booster itself may have failed.
 

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It is possible. You have to break the tip off the old check valve first in order to install it, with a flathead screwdriver. After that, you can just install the kit with nothing else needed.

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Curious, what happens to the bits when you break them off? Where do they go?
 

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It falls into the intake. If you are really concerned, remove the throttle body and try and blow it out from the same hole you broke it off from. It is just a small flimsy piece of silicone though.
 

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It falls into the intake. If you are really concerned, remove the throttle body and try and blow it out from the same hole you broke it off from. It is just a small flimsy piece of silicone though.
I'm not too familiar with how the intake manifold is designed, does it get caught somewhere or will be consumed by the engine? Is there any risk to it being in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #660
I'm not too familiar with how the intake manifold is designed, does it get caught somewhere or will be consumed by the engine? Is there any risk to it being in there?
It gets consumed by the engine. This happens on the stock manifolds all the time without people realizing it. The part gets consumed by the engine, then probably stuck on the catalytic converter where it gets hit with 800+ F exhaust temps that eventually turn it to nothing but dust and blows it out of the exhaust.

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