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So after a short while of the car performing like new again, its started play up, surging as the boost comes and goes cutting in and out, sometimes boost not coming on at all and I've had the underboost code several times.

I have checked all the hoses and all joints seem fine.
However when checking the one way valve I took the hose off and there was a lot of oil in the pipe, what could be causing this?
Also this evening whilst sitting in the car clearing the fault codes I put my foot on the brake and the pedal went straight to the floor, it did this several times, if I gave it a quick rev there was pressure in the pedal again so it seems there is a vacuum leak?

It is still drawing air through, I think, the main crank seal causing the squeaking or the sound of air being sucked, but it only does this when the aircon is on, which is strange. If I pull the dipstick it stops and if I squeeze the small air hose it will also stop the squeak.

Any Ideas?
Depends on what was wrong when you finally installed the fix kit. Did you have or check for oil in the system before starting? Is the manifold vacuum regulator blown? Was the crank seal whistling before? Did you make sure all of the ac brackets were fully tight?
 

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I was having the p2099 underboost code, changed the boost solenoid, coil pack and spark plugs as its was jerky, (which did help)
There was a little oil and crap in where the old valve was, which was expected as per the videos of the fix install.
The crank seal was whistling before which I have read as a symptom of the valve failing / failed.
It did stop when I had installed the fix, but has restarted.
Im not sure whether to change the one way valve for the spare I have incase its failed?
The diaphragm on the Valve cover is still intact, its not leaking and when I cover it with my finger there is no vacuum or pressure.
I haven't checked the AC mounting bolts, I am guessing its because it puts extra load on the engine?
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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I would make sure the spark plugs are still at the specified torque, make sure all the AC bolts are tight and go from there.


How-To: 1.4L Gen 1 front crankshaft seal replacement

Possible causes for this engine code, P0299, include:

Faulty bank 2 catalytic converter
A faulty mass air flow or manifold air pressure sensor
Defective bank 2 O2 sensor/s
Burnt, chafed, broken, or disconnected wiring and/or connectors
Engine exhaust leaks

Read more at: P2099 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich Bank 2
 

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Just did the V3 kit on a brand new ZZP ported intake along with a new valve cover. Install was not bad in hind sight. I suggest watching the video a few times before you attempt. My only suggestion is that when you make the cut on the nylon evap purge line is that you don't trim the extra 5/16" from it after the cut. I had a difficult time pressing the nylon line on the hose barbs. I did eventually get them on there but I bent the line in the process and had to trim the bend away. This gave me JUST enough to get the line over all three barbs but not past it. So this will buy you a second chance just in case you melt or bend the ends.

The end result was excellent. The porting of the intake along with the PCV system functioning as it should combined for a much better driving experience. I did not do the install of the manifold myself because I figured a shop could do it quicker and I wanted them to clean up and trace some leaks as well. The book says four hours total for both the intake and valve cover so just keep that in mind when and if you use a shop to to the install.
 

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Question. I am currently working on a 2014 LT 1.4 Turbo, 124000 miles, oil leaks yes, cracked turbo, coolant lines and hoses, oil return in pieces, catalytic converters, water pump and belt with new idler. All have been replaced, new synthetic 5-30 and filter and I will drain the trans two times and adjust with the Dex6. Granddaughters car I hauled out of California to northern Utah. I bought this kit and the extra hoses. Now, will this kit be considered a modification according to California smog laws? Since we are in quite a bit of money for this I do not want to install this kit only to find out it will not pass smog in California.
 

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Question. I am currently working on a 2014 LT 1.4 Turbo, 124000 miles, oil leaks yes, cracked turbo, coolant lines and hoses, oil return in pieces, catalytic converters, water pump and belt with new idler. All have been replaced, new synthetic 5-30 and filter and I will drain the trans two times and adjust with the Dex6. Granddaughters car I hauled out of California to northern Utah. I bought this kit and the extra hoses. Now, will this kit be considered a modification according to California smog laws? Since we are in quite a bit of money for this I do not want to install this kit only to find out it will not pass smog in California.
I have no idea, but it doesn't change anything in the emissions system... blowby still gets routed to the intake during vacuum and boosting to be burned again. I have the version 2 in the kit and you can't even see the modification done on the bottom of the intake manifold. Doesn't trigger a check engine light or alter how it works from the manufacturer. Should be fine...
 

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I installed the v3 kit on my cruze limited at 90k miles. I spent the next 1500 miles smelling burnt oil, but the car's power was fully restored. I read through several posts about this topic and probably through this thread as well. At some point I remembered the very first post, mentioning the check valve attached to the turbo needing to function correctly. Low and behold, mine was not working correctly. I bought a new corrugated pcv hose just to hack off the part that I needed. I also purchased and installed a new valve cover because the previous one had at least 40k miles on it. After replacing those two parts, the performance improved slightly more and I no longer smell burnt oil. Wonderful. Hopefully this car will work for at least another 90k miles!
 

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I was having the p2099 underboost code, changed the boost solenoid, coil pack and spark plugs as its was jerky, (which did help)
There was a little oil and crap in where the old valve was, which was expected as per the videos of the fix install.
The crank seal was whistling before which I have read as a symptom of the valve failing / failed.
It did stop when I had installed the fix, but has restarted.
Im not sure whether to change the one way valve for the spare I have incase its failed?
The diaphragm on the Valve cover is still intact, its not leaking and when I cover it with my finger there is no vacuum or pressure.
I haven't checked the AC mounting bolts, I am guessing its because it puts extra load on the engine?
"Underboost" refers to as P0299 Turbocharger/Superchargher Bank "A" Under Boost. P2099 is a different code.

I hate to burst anyone's bubble, but if you have a P0299, it's probably got a cracked Turbocharger housing, specifically around the Wastegate port.


In another note, I did the v3 mod to my Cruze last week, and so far I've noticed smoother acceleration, better overall engine harmonics(sounds better), and increased fuel efficiency.
 

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Recently installed the V3 fix kit, just leaving some info for posterity.

110,000 miles, 2012 Eco stick shift. Rough idle and check engine light showed codes that led me here, and I found that all three problem points in my car's PCV system (both valves + diaphragm) were busted. Installed new valve cover first, which improved the idle and cleared all 3 CEL codes, but also brought major oil leaks and some oil burning, neither of which were a problem before. Installed the fix kit and re-seated the valve cover, and the oil losses were pretty much solved, leaving just a driveway drip after running that also seems to have abated in the past few hundred miles. I don't know if the oil blowing all over the rear and lower engine compartment after valve cover replacement was due to me screwing up the valve cover installation (I couldn't find anything I did wrong) or due to boost pressure going into the crankcase, or what.

A word to the wise, echoing what adam784 said above: the V3 fix kit does not replace the turbo inlet check valve. I didn't catch this until I was about to install, which set me back a day and another $70 at NAPA (cheaper at other NAPAs, apparently). Most of the reason why this wasn't clear to me might be that I'm not sharpest tool in the shed. But I also misinterpreted a remark made by Andrei in the V3 Fix Kit how-to video, where he says the Fix Kit saves you the price of the above part because it replaces "this whole section here" vague gesture -- but he can only be referring to the corrugated hose alone, not the turbo plug with valve, nor the other line that comes taped to the corrugated hose on the new part. This would have been clear to me if the video had showed him cutting out the old turbo plug instead of skipping that step without mention. In general, a more thorough step-by-step-by-step video, with snappy editing to control the increased length, would make the installation procedure more transparent and also encourage more people to buy the kit.

Overall, the V3 kit solved my problem, and not having to remove the intake manifold was a tremendous benefit. Communication and shipping from the website were on point. I recommend it highly.
 

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Recently installed the V3 fix kit, just leaving some info for posterity.

110,000 miles, 2012 Eco stick shift. Rough idle and check engine light showed codes that led me here, and I found that all three problem points in my car's PCV system (both valves + diaphragm) were busted. Installed new valve cover first, which improved the idle and cleared all 3 CEL codes, but also brought major oil leaks and some oil burning, neither of which were a problem before. Installed the fix kit and re-seated the valve cover, and the oil losses were pretty much solved, leaving just a driveway drip after running that also seems to have abated in the past few hundred miles. I don't know if the oil blowing all over the rear and lower engine compartment after valve cover replacement was due to me screwing up the valve cover installation (I couldn't find anything I did wrong) or due to boost pressure going into the crankcase, or what.

A word to the wise, echoing what adam784 said above: the V3 fix kit does not replace the turbo inlet check valve. I didn't catch this until I was about to install, which set me back a day and another $70 at NAPA (cheaper at other NAPAs, apparently). Most of the reason why this wasn't clear to me might be that I'm not sharpest tool in the shed. But I also misinterpreted a remark made by Andrei in the V3 Fix Kit how-to video, where he says the Fix Kit saves you the price of the above part because it replaces "this whole section here" vague gesture -- but he can only be referring to the corrugated hose alone, not the turbo plug with valve, nor the other line that comes taped to the corrugated hose on the new part. This would have been clear to me if the video had showed him cutting out the old turbo plug instead of skipping that step without mention. In general, a more thorough step-by-step-by-step video, with snappy editing to control the increased length, would make the installation procedure more transparent and also encourage more people to buy the kit.

Overall, the V3 kit solved my problem, and not having to remove the intake manifold was a tremendous benefit. Communication and shipping from the website were on point. I recommend it highly.
Thanks for the feedback. There will be another video coming soon as there's a v3.1 kit being released in the next month or two, and that will require another video. I'll be sure to mention that terminal.

Worth noting, the check valve at the turbo inlet doesn't go bad all that often. Some carb cleaner is all most people need to get it un-stuck, followed by some compressed air blown in both directions. I generally recommend people try cleaning that check valve before replacing it.

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for the feedback. There will be another video coming soon as there's a v3.1 kit being released in the next month or two, and that will require another video. I'll be sure to mention that terminal.

Worth noting, the check valve at the turbo inlet doesn't go bad all that often. Some carb cleaner is all most people need to get it un-stuck, followed by some compressed air blown in both directions. I generally recommend people try cleaning that check valve before replacing it.

Sent from my BlackBerry Key2 using Tapatalk
Hi! I'm brand new here, I found this place looking for info on this issue.
I'm curious if the V3.1 is much of a difference over V3? I plan on ordering one in the near future.
Thanks in advance!
David
 

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2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red
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Hi! I'm brand new here, I found this place looking for info on this issue.
I'm curious if the V3.1 is much of a difference over V3? I plan on ordering one in the near future.
Thanks in advance!
David
Welcome Aboard!(y)

Don't forget to introduce yourself and your Cruze here.
 

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"Underboost" refers to as P0299 Turbocharger/Superchargher Bank "A" Under Boost. P2099 is a different code.

I hate to burst anyone's bubble, but if you have a P0299, it's probably got a cracked Turbocharger housing, specifically around the Wastegate port.


In another note, I did the v3 mod to my Cruze last week, and so far I've noticed smoother acceleration, better overall engine harmonics(sounds better), and increased fuel efficiency.
Hi
Yes I did meant the P0299 code.

Still having problems, struggling to get a garage to look at it, no one wants ok now, they only want to do easy jobs, not fault finding.
Got a video today of the wastegate pin.
The wastegate lever won’t move when the actuator arm is pressing on it, but when I pull the actuator arm to release pressure on the pin and it rattles a lot like in the video,
Is this the wear on the pin that people mention?

 

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I'm a PC technician. I've never done anything more than change a tire on a car, and I installed the V3 fix kit plus replaced the valve cover. The only headaches I had were of my own making. Two weeks after the install and its working flawlessly.

The first headache I ran into was the purge valve hose. Save yourself some effort and just get the no-heat easy splice. I didn't have a vice, and I used a hair dryer to heat it up. I used silicon spray, but without a vice it was hard to hold it, warm it up, AND press it on. I ended up putting so much force on the hose that it bent and creased, making it impossible to put on. I ended up going to autozone and buying PCV hose and clamps and made my own 'no-heat easy splice'.

After cleaning the inside of the intake manifold, I did a few dry practice runs on putting the plug in and felt comfortable to go. Threw some epoxy on it and got it in first try. It almost surprised me how easy it was. It was so easy I actually questioned if I got it in the hole or if it fell into the intake.

After I had installed everything, including the new valve cover (without using a torque wrench), I let the car sit overnight to let the epoxy dry. The next day I started it up and the engine light was off and it was idling fine. I drove to work and halfway there it started to idle rough again at stop lights. Once I got to work I smelled burning oil and lot of white smoke was coming out form the hood and the engine light was back on. I instantly regretted not using a torque wrench.

I got a loaner torque wrench and found that I did not tighten the valve cover anywhere near enough. I also double guessed that I actually plugged the PCV valve hole and just stuffed in a ton a epoxy so that I knew for a fact it was plugged.

Took it out again and same thing. Rough idle, oil leaking, white smoke.

At this point I figured my valve cover gasket must be pinched or rolled. Looking at it with a flashlight I couldn't see any obvious problems, but I bought a new valve cover gasket anyways. The new one was blue, which was a great help to see where the gasket wasn't seated correctly. Once I could tell it was perfect. I torqued the cover down and took it out again. It ran perfect, and after 10 mins the engine light went out on its own. Its been running smoothly ever since.

TL;DR
Get the no-heat easy splice add-on
Use a torque wrench if installing a new valve cover
Make sure the gasket is seated correctly
 

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Hi
Yes I did meant the P0299 code.

Still having problems, struggling to get a garage to look at it, no one wants ok now, they only want to do easy jobs, not fault finding.
Got a video today of the wastegate pin.
The wastegate lever won’t move when the actuator arm is pressing on it, but when I pull the actuator arm to release pressure on the pin and it rattles a lot like in the video,
Is this the wear on the pin that people mention?

That little bit of movement is normal. If you have an underboost code that sets after clearing it, my recommendation would be to gain access to the inside of the turbocharger on the exhaust side. Easiest ways are to remove it, or if you have a borescope, you might be able to peek at it through the O2 sensor hole, after removing the upstream sensor. The GM factory turbochargers tend to crack by the wastegate port. A small crack is considered 'normal' by GM, but the crack can expand with excessive heat, or it can crack a second or third time.
 

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So I finally got the problem solved!

I got a torque Bluetooth adapter and borrowed my dads android phone.
We went for a drive and the boost was building to about 21psi and would then drop down to 4-8 psi.
As I have changed all sensors I took a chance and got a new wastegate actuator. Fitted it the other day and the cars transformed, put you foot down and it takes off and holds boost all the way until I let off.

I haven’t seen anything on any forums regarding the actuator failing, I’m guessing the spring inside gets weak over time?
 

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So I finally got the problem solved!

I got a torque Bluetooth adapter and borrowed my dads android phone.
We went for a drive and the boost was building to about 21psi and would then drop down to 4-8 psi.
As I have changed all sensors I took a chance and got a new wastegate actuator. Fitted it the other day and the cars transformed, put you foot down and it takes off and holds boost all the way until I let off.

I haven’t seen anything on any forums regarding the actuator failing, I’m guessing the spring inside gets weak over time?
Are you tuned? That’s a lot of boost. And yes the stock one will blow open on higher boost tunes at higher RPMs.
 
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