Chevrolet Cruze Forums banner
841 - 860 of 865 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
You get 40mpg?! That's nice. I know driving habits and conditions play into mpg, but curious if most of your driving is highway; inquiry minds would like to know.
40mpg is possible with basically all highway driving. On the tank that I got 40mpg I kept the car under 80mph and didn't use cruise control unless the road was 100% flat. I tried to stay around 75-78mph the whole way but when going up the hills on the highway I let the speed drop into the 60s. So I was specifically trying to hypermile the car to see the overall mileage. Before when I did this I only got like 32mpg, so the PCV fix definitely changes things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I saw a video on youtube and the OP commented that has his check valve arrow is facing the passenger side and works better. I couldn't really find an explanation why the arrow has to face the driver side. I'm installing the kit and I'm trying to have a better understanding of the cruze pcv system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I installed the v3.4 on my old manifold that I kept after putting in a new OEM assembly (throttle body, injectors, sensors). Just missing the PCV hose ends. After watching all the cruzekits videos, I couldn't find a single up-to-date picture on how it should look installed with the check valve relocate and the custom T-fitting of the v3.4. The long 5/16" hose just seems too long for the purpose and pushes the T fitting away from the line of the PCV port.
Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior Automotive tire Machine
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,860 Posts
Discussion Starter · #845 ·
I installed the v3.4 on my old manifold that I kept after putting in a new OEM assembly (throttle body, injectors, sensors). Just missing the PCV hose ends. After watching all the cruzekits videos, I couldn't find a single up-to-date picture on how it should look installed with the check valve relocate and the custom T-fitting of the v3.4. The long 5/16" hose just seems too long for the purpose and pushes the T fitting away from the line of the PCV port. View attachment 297939
You’re supposed to cut 2” off the 19” line and place the check valve 2” away from the T fitting. The 4.25” line is to be used as an easy splice option for the evap purge valve line.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I think you'll find that replacing the cam cover takes you back to "driving fine" - it just won't last very long. At this point, I'm sure that the PCV valve in the cover is what controls the quantity of the flow. The other valves just control direction. But there's still some details that don't quite add up.
Yeah like mine getting coil then turbo at 160km cuz waste gate stuck open, spark plugs oil change new belt at 180km, supposed to need new cat but valve cover went and light for cat stayed out lol now lean code mechanic couldnt find Any issue I drove it and had the whistle lol and then I found the small boost sensor or barometric pressure sensor hose was split and I guess i knocked the new one off but I thought i checked so u need the black hose with green line on it it fits tighter but now car squeals both tires I smelled burnt rubber today yesterday was warm with hose off brake and gas and let her eat lol also changed water outlet and car was so hot mechanic couldnt touch it for 3 hours that was around time turbo went also on 3rd coil but u need to drive on highway get it working and let it cool down make sure its cool cuz motor should not be hot but yeah I want to leave the keys in it and let someone take it lol pcv line across top of engine was cracked couldnt find issue then i poked it with my finger same with the black hose with green line. i think it needs metal valve cam cover metal intake metal pcv line or rubber bypass nice wastegate and metal air intake pipes maybe metal anti freeze pipes proper cold air intake parts chrome aluminum ya know change plastic to metal get it to run cooler better coil pack oil cooler needs bigger cooler for oil and turbo so nice inter cooler its a turbo so they only turbocharge to get more power so transport giant turbo on diesel 1.4 **** the car did 100 km screaming down high way witch was speed limit but dam I cant imagine why no light came on and the boost sensor plug was loose cuz when they changed the intake manifold they didnt plug the holders in but yea great car but it is like a race car so u need to upgrade plastic to metal because it runs hot and pushes the motor to the limit when u are leaking oil out pcv line out ur exhaust and antifreeze pissin out the drain before with black oil I couldnt touch top of engine after oil change i had my hand well it was cold and i did 130 150 u need to get it working good Look on google youtube and just find good mechanic but it is plumbing air and water pipes leaks are not to hard to find fuel injectors tick when air is on but when cool should be somewhat quiet my buddy had tobhave oil lines replaced to turbo its oilnand liquid cooled so ya and i changed air filters mouse nest behind glove box each time i noticed difference and barometric pressure sensor said might be fast then slow and i have felt the car is different everytime i drive it so might be black hose with green line too loose befoer it was cracked and hissed when i touched it was told it supposed to sound like that just need to check connection and air box mine was loose when i checked filter and it was screaming but no power tightend her up and bam and main crankshaft seal at 93km intake manifold valve cover pcv line but i hope thos helps cuz my whistle is back again but its different
 

·
Administrator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
Joined
·
13,670 Posts
Yeah like mine getting coil then turbo at 160km cuz waste gate stuck open, spark plugs oil change new belt at 180km, supposed to need new cat but valve cover went and light for cat stayed out lol now lean code mechanic couldnt find Any issue I drove it and had the whistle lol and then I found the small boost sensor or barometric pressure sensor hose was split and I guess i knocked the new one off but I thought i checked so u need the black hose with green line on it it fits tighter but now car squeals both tires I smelled burnt rubber today yesterday was warm with hose off brake and gas and let her eat lol also changed water outlet and car was so hot mechanic couldnt touch it for 3 hours that was around time turbo went also on 3rd coil but u need to drive on highway get it working and let it cool down make sure its cool cuz motor should not be hot but yeah I want to leave the keys in it and let someone take it lol pcv line across top of engine was cracked couldnt find issue then i poked it with my finger same with the black hose with green line. i think it needs metal valve cam cover metal intake metal pcv line or rubber bypass nice wastegate and metal air intake pipes maybe metal anti freeze pipes proper cold air intake parts chrome aluminum ya know change plastic to metal get it to run cooler better coil pack oil cooler needs bigger cooler for oil and turbo so nice inter cooler its a turbo so they only turbocharge to get more power so transport giant turbo on diesel 1.4 **** the car did 100 km screaming down high way witch was speed limit but dam I cant imagine why no light came on and the boost sensor plug was loose cuz when they changed the intake manifold they didnt plug the holders in but yea great car but it is like a race car so u need to upgrade plastic to metal because it runs hot and pushes the motor to the limit when u are leaking oil out pcv line out ur exhaust and antifreeze pissin out the drain before with black oil I couldnt touch top of engine after oil change i had my hand well it was cold and i did 130 150 u need to get it working good Look on google youtube and just find good mechanic but it is plumbing air and water pipes leaks are not to hard to find fuel injectors tick when air is on but when cool should be somewhat quiet my buddy had tobhave oil lines replaced to turbo its oilnand liquid cooled so ya and i changed air filters mouse nest behind glove box each time i noticed difference and barometric pressure sensor said might be fast then slow and i have felt the car is different everytime i drive it so might be black hose with green line too loose befoer it was cracked and hissed when i touched it was told it supposed to sound like that just need to check connection and air box mine was loose when i checked filter and it was screaming but no power tightend her up and bam and main crankshaft seal at 93km intake manifold valve cover pcv line but i hope thos helps cuz my whistle is back again but its different
What? Can you put this in paragraph form with complete sentences?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Does anyone have pictures of how the CruzeKits v3.4 is supposed to look utilizing the 4.25" line instead of the heatgun install?

I lost the printed directions that come with the package, and there doesn't seem to be any pictures or instructions available online (at least that I could find on the site or searching on Google).

Just want to make sure I'm approaching this right before I finish the install.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,860 Posts
Discussion Starter · #850 ·
Does anyone have pictures of how the CruzeKits v3.4 is supposed to look utilizing the 4.25" line instead of the heatgun install?

I lost the printed directions that come with the package, and there doesn't seem to be any pictures or instructions available online (at least that I could find on the site or searching on Google).

Just want to make sure I'm approaching this right before I finish the install.
Just cut the nylon line and take it off. Put the 4.25” line on and cut it in about half. Put the Y fitting on.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2012 Opel Meriva B 1.4 Turbo A14NET 140bhp
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have had my PCV Fix Kit v3.4 a few months now and have finally gotten round to install it however I have a question that I cannot find a definite answer too. I apologize if this has been entirely covered somewhere. I still have the little orange nipple in place and as I want to alleviate any problems in the future I am installing the Kit now. My problem is getting rid of the orange nipple inside the manifold. What is the best way to get rid of this to make sure it is entirely out of the hole in order for the supplied clip to be firmly seated. Can I just push it through using a pick or something as I am worried that I might make the hole bigger if I try to break it off with a screwdriver or similar. Any advice greatly received. Thanks.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,860 Posts
Discussion Starter · #852 ·
I have had my PCV Fix Kit v3.4 a few months now and have finally gotten round to install it however I have a question that I cannot find a definite answer too. I apologize if this has been entirely covered somewhere. I still have the little orange nipple in place and as I want to alleviate any problems in the future I am installing the Kit now. My problem is getting rid of the orange nipple inside the manifold. What is the best way to get rid of this to make sure it is entirely out of the hole in order for the supplied clip to be firmly seated. Can I just push it through using a pick or something as I am worried that I might make the hole bigger if I try to break it off with a screwdriver or similar. Any advice greatly received. Thanks.
Yea you can push it through or use a flathead to break the tip off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,860 Posts
Discussion Starter · #854 ·
do you have a part number for the brake boost tee? mine is leaking and the dealer can't find it and auto zone said it's a dealer only part. not having any luck finding it online
The one from the original v2 kit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,860 Posts
Discussion Starter · #856 ·
yes, it has worked great for 3 yrs. it's a whistling dixie now around the bottom of the T. not sure if it's the fitting or intake manifold cracked.
I don’t use that anymore as it has a tendency to leak after a while. I have a v2.1 conversion kit available on the cruzekits site so you can tap into the evap purge valve line for a vacuum source instead.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
yes, it has worked great for 3 yrs. it's a whistling dixie now around the bottom of the T. not sure if it's the fitting or intake manifold cracked.
I don’t use that anymore as it has a tendency to leak after a while. I have a v2.1 conversion kit available on the cruzekits site so you can tap into the evap purge valve line for a vacuum source instead.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
no prob. thanks for the reply. i pulled the manifold and it's junk. so new $300 intake it is. and then a new kit when it fails. as luck would have it the new manifold the dealer sold is cracked and junk too. i put the whole thing back together before finding the crack. i get to do this again tomorrow. oh how i love this car.....
 

·
Administrator
2014 LT program car, Pull Me Over Red, 1.4T Auto
Joined
·
13,670 Posts
no prob. thanks for the reply. i pulled the manifold and it's junk. so new $300 intake it is. and then a new kit when it fails. as luck would have it the new manifold the dealer sold is cracked and junk too. i put the whole thing back together before finding the crack. i get to do this again tomorrow. oh how i love this car.....
Would be cheaper to get the conversion kit. No need for a new manifold
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I installed the V3 PVC bypass kit, but I'm still getting a lot of pressure blowing out of the oil cap and car won't stay running with oil cap on. I've replaced the valve cover, MAP, O2 sensor, Turbo boost, turbo, Mass Airflow Sensor, turbo boost sensor, and air filter, but still having these issues. What am I missing? Thanks Scott
 
841 - 860 of 865 Posts
Top