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Discussion Starter #21
Arrived today. Looked through the destructions. And man. I forgot how hard it was to do suspension work on front wheel drive cars. The instructions are about 6 pages front and back. Have to drop the entire subframe up front. ?


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Discussion Starter #22
4 springs front and rear
New bolts nuts washers etc
Front stabilizer bar only for LT and LTZ “Premier”
LS does not get sway bar
Instructions in English French and Spanish




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Discussion Starter #23


Rear two springs are installed piece of cake to do took about a half hour to do both side. Took it around two corners that I’d like to swing my car around and the rear end feels a whole lot more competent.
Total drop seems to be about 3/4 of an inch in the rear.


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Rear two springs are installed piece of cake to do took about a half hour to do both side. Took it around two corners that I’d like to swing my car around and the rear end feels a whole lot more competent.
Total drop seems to be about 3/4 of an inch in the rear.


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The front is going to be a whole other animal.

I’d be pumping money into the Cruze, right now. But, unfortunately, I just dropped some more money on bitcoin.


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Following, GM tells me 10mm drop for the new springs.

As for the different part numbers, idk the difference, but was told by GM it's for hatch and sedan.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Following, GM tells me 10mm drop for the new springs.

As for the different part numbers, idk the difference, but was told by GM it's for hatch and sedan.
One is for LS. It does not come with a new front stabilizer bar. The other is for LT or LTZ or Premier and comes with a front bar.


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Discussion Starter #27
So the delay wants 6 hours of labor at $120/hr. I said no thanks. So guess what I have been doing all day. THIS IS A PITA!!!!!


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2014 Cruze Diesel, 2007 Cobalt, 1981 Camaro Z28, 2017 Volt
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It's just springs and a sway bar - the springs should be pretty easy.

The sway bar...doesn't the Cruze require the subframe to be dropped/pivoted? The Cobalt's was an absolute ***** to do - but I didn't need to drop the subframe. Everything was in the way, though. If I had done it when I did my header swap, it'd have been ten times easier.

The Cavalier required the subframe to be tilted - which ended up with me snapping the head off one of the bolts (probably lead to the crack making its way all the way around, though that bolt was so rusted in the sleeve, it may never have even had an effect). I put the swaybar on the new subframe when I swapped it in - the car came without a front bar at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
It's just springs and a sway bar - the springs should be pretty easy.

The sway bar...doesn't the Cruze require the subframe to be dropped/pivoted? The Cobalt's was an absolute ***** to do - but I didn't need to drop the subframe. Everything was in the way, though. If I had done it when I did my header swap, it'd have been ten times easier.

The Cavalier required the subframe to be tilted - which ended up with me snapping the head off one of the bolts (probably lead to the crack making its way all the way around, though that bolt was so rusted in the sleeve, it may never have even had an effect). I put the swaybar on the new subframe when I swapped it in - the car came without a front bar at all.

I did not drop it all the way. But one of torque to yield bolts did not make it. This was a terrible design. But whatever. And yes the cobalt was a pita as well. BTDT



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Yeah, like the Cavalier, you just probably need enough space to slip the old one out and the new one in, correct?

The bolt broke??

Cobalt was a pain - but at least the subframe could stay where it was at.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yeah, like the Cavalier, you just probably need enough space to slip the old one out and the new one in, correct?

The bolt broke??

Cobalt was a pain - but at least the subframe could stay where it was at.
Yes you slip it out just enough and loose in the steering gears just enough to get it in there but after the alignment which I just had done it feels like a whole different animal and just feels tighter and more competent well worth it


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Glad that you are pleased with the suspension purchase. I am looking into the same kit for my Hatchback!
 

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Sorry to bring this back to life, but do you remember the part numbers off the springs and sway bar? I have the 1.6 and know if came with different springs than the 1.4. Not sure if they might be there same it not.

Front passenger spring PN is 13367034 for reference.
Thanks
 

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I don’t know your answer, but I’m going to go out on a limb, and say that the spring rates are “likely” different, because the 1.6 is probably a heavier motor. But then again, it may just be a bigger bore. The 1.6 in the US is a diesel.


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Installed this over the weekend on my '18 Diesel Sedan.

I tried a few different variations of 2017/2018 and Sedan/Hatch all with the 1.6 and LT trim and the current version of the Chevy Accessories website says it fits some and not others. There is no option to toggle between automatic/manual trans. When it does pop up there is only one part number (84105410) and it includes the sway bar.

The upgraded parts codes were:
Sway bar: AAJ9, #39000784, 29mm x 4.5mm wall
Front Spring: AA7N #13479752
Rear Spring: AAWV #13366701

The stock parts were:
Sway bar: AAKP, #39005088, 28mm x 4.5mm wall
Front Spring: AG7 #13367034 (Diesel/Manual specific it seems)
Rear Spring: AAVB #13366696

Oddly, I can't find the upgraded front springs or stock rear spring anywhere online. And it looks like the sway bar is probably the stock unit from the Volt.

The bar isn't that terrible to install, but my opinion would probably change quickly if I were doing it on an older, rustier car. Lots of steps but they're well documented in the included instructions (also available online.) The only step I skipped was removing the lower ball joint. Since I was doing front springs as well I just removed the coil-over assembly which served the purpose of separating the outboard wheel assembly from the body. Working on the garage floor and with half-shafts still attached my subframe couldn't drop far enough to concern me with completely un-plugging ABS and steering rack wires. The front springs and bar took me about 5 hours on my back with jack-stands, basic hand-tools, a rented spring compressor, and a small pneumatic impact for the shock top nut.

With a tape measure and bubble level I couldn't see any alignment changes worth having addressed. Despite having the tape and string out, I got completely unscientific with ride height, but from top of the tire to bottom of the fender lip I went from four fingers to a tight three on the front, and a lose 4 to a tight three on the rear. I expect it may well shrink another .250" or so over the next few months.
 

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Nice. That makes sense too because I think it's advertised as a half inch drop or close to it. Another bonus people don't talk about with the factory GM kit is it includes all new nuts and bolts right? That's important since I'm sure most people are resusing their torque to yield hardware when they just change out springs. That's another 100 bucks or so in bolts that you're getting with the kit so that should help justify the cost for people that think it's too expensive.
 

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Nice. That makes sense too because I think it's advertised as a half inch drop or close to it. Another bonus people don't talk about with the factory GM kit is it includes all new nuts and bolts right? That's important since I'm sure most people are resusing their torque to yield hardware when they just change out springs. That's another 100 bucks or so in bolts that you're getting with the kit so that should help justify the cost for people that think it's too expensive.
I've seen half-inch, 10mm and 12mm quoted. Pretty much all the same and all right in line with my experience. It is slightly more in the rear because the wheel gap is equal front to rear now.

And yes, the kit includes all new hardware since just about everything is torque-to-yield. Shopping around online I found the kit for $295 shipped. Considering I didn't want to go as low as the Eibach springs would force me, the extra ~$30 for the roll bar and hardware was an easy sell.
 
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