[H3LLON3ARTH]

Glad they took care of you.

Me too.

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[H3LLON3ARTH]

A little voice coil smell isn't to bad well it is but that's where I like to listen to my subs lol, and hey I've had them since 2003 and from 2006 to 2008 they were played hard all day long, I mean all day

How many watts RMS are you pushing your speaker.

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[XtremeRevolution]

A little voice coil smell isn't to bad well it is but that's where I like to listen to my subs lol, and hey I've had them since 2003 and from 2006 to 2008 they were played hard all day long, I mean all day

If you are smelling voice coil, you need to back off on the gain or bass knob and reconsider if the size or number of subs is enough for your SPL preferences. Or, you're clipping the heck out of your amp.

Chris, before you put a replacement sub in, I would highly recommend getting an secondary audio battery or two. You're pulling a lot of power through a 1 ohm load and the stock electrical, even with upgraded big 3 wiring, isn't going to cut it.
You are about 50% efficient at 1 ohm, which means to go full tilt, your amp would pull 4,200W, or 291A. You're playing with the big boys now.

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[H3LLON3ARTH]

If you are smelling voice coil, you need to back off on the gain or bass knob and reconsider if the size or number of subs is enough for your SPL preferences. Or, you're clipping the heck out of your amp.

Chris, before you put a replacement sub in, I would highly recommend getting an secondary audio battery or two. You're pulling a lot of power through a 1 ohm load and the stock electrical, even with upgraded big 3 wiring, isn't going to cut it.
You are about 50% efficient at 1 ohm, which means to go full tilt, your amp would pull 4,200W, or 291A. You're playing with the big boys now.

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Yea I'm putting a bigger battery in before I replace my sub.

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[H3LLON3ARTH]

Going with a Optima Red Top SC34R.

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[CyclonicWrath]

If you are smelling voice coil, you need to back off on the gain or bass knob and reconsider if the size or number of subs is enough for your SPL preferences. Or, you're clipping the heck out of your amp.

Chris, before you put a replacement sub in, I would highly recommend getting an secondary audio battery or two. You're pulling a lot of power through a 1 ohm load and the stock electrical, even with upgraded big 3 wiring, isn't going to cut it.
You are about 50% efficient at 1 ohm, which means to go full tilt, your amp would pull 4,200W, or 291A. You're playing with the big boys now.

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I'm running them at 2 ohms and I know it's not good i don't really smell it heavy just a small hint if the windows are up for a long period of time I'm waiting for them to go, I am looking at a 10" w7 and a 1000/1 JL amp to make it
Move a little, I know I don't need it I've just always wanted one and I like to throw money at things. There's always crickets in my pockets... I would go with another battery when I do that instal and I still have yet to do the 3 wire upgrade might do it this week or next since I'm off for 2 weeks, but I don't get any dimming or power loss and my gauges don't let me run below 12.5 volts anyways, plus everything's still under warranty

 

[XtremeRevolution]

I'm running them at 2 ohms and I know it's not good i don't really smell it heavy just a small hint if the windows are up for a long period of time I'm waiting for them to go, I am looking at a 10" w7 and a 1000/1 JL amp to make it
Move a little, I know I don't need it I've just always wanted one and I like to throw money at things. There's always crickets in my pockets... I would go with another battery when I do that instal and I still have yet to do the 3 wire upgrade might do it this week or next since I'm off for 2 weeks, but I don't get any dimming or power loss and my gauges don't let me run below 12.5 volts anyways, plus everything's still under warranty

I can tell you without any shred of doubt that the IDMAX is worlds better than a W7. About the same output, but the IDMAX has a much, much wider passband and a lower moving mass. There's also a new 15" version coming out this year. JL is mostly marketing for the masses. If you want your money's worth, get an ID sub.

Frankly though, for the price of either the ID or the JL, you can get two IDQ10s or 12s that would be even louder and even more musical.

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[CyclonicWrath]

I can tell you without any shred of doubt that the IDMAX is worlds better than a W7. About the same output, but the IDMAX has a much, much wider passband and a lower moving mass. There's also a new 15" version coming out this year. JL is mostly marketing for the masses. If you want your money's worth, get an ID sub.

Frankly though, for the price of either the ID or the JL, you can get two IDQ10s or 12s that would be even louder and even more musical.

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I will look into it

 

[Stevear22]

I think I'm going to do something different with my stereo. Not till after I visit the ENT specialist and find out why my ears are already messed haha. I want to get rid of my 15" Clarion and get maybe 2-3 10's. I mean the 15 pounds hard and all have no complaints, but for the music I listen to, I almost feel like its to big to move at the speed of the music. I listen to a lot of hardcore music (like August burn red If anyone knows who they are lol) and the double bass in a lot of the songs is like a frigin gun


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[CyclonicWrath]

2 10" equal the same as a 15 I do believe, you could just buy a really powerful 10" sub put a lot of watts into it in an enclosed box would be my preference for that type of music you feel it more then it wrecks your ears, should feel like your being punched in the chest rather then a dirty tingle in your brain

 

[Stevear22]

2 10" equal the same as a 15 I do believe, you could just buy a really powerful 10" sub put a lot of watts into it in an enclosed box would be my preference for that type of music you feel it more then it wrecks your ears, should feel like your being punched in the chest rather then a dirty tingle in your brain

Yeah, I remember a buddy had 3 10" infinity Kapas before, and they had a **** of a punch. I don't want to loose what I've got I just want to make it better you know? As dangerous as it is, I think it's pretty cool that I can't crank my stereo in the rain because my wipers don't properly clean the windshield haha


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[CyclonicWrath]

Haha I got the same problem my rear window flex is unreal too

 

[XtremeRevolution]

2 10" equal the same as a 15 I do believe, you could just buy a really powerful 10" sub put a lot of watts into it in an enclosed box would be my preference for that type of music you feel it more then it wrecks your ears, should feel like your being punched in the chest rather then a dirty tingle in your brain

It's always a function of cone area. Everything is a function of cone area. Some manufacturers list it as piston area. When you have the option, you always want more cone area over more excursion. This is because the higher cone area will offer better efficiency and typically lower distortion. This is why I run two 18" subs. Let me outline it for you.

The highest cone area 10" sub I know of is the Image Dynamics IDQ10 V3. This has a cone area of 399 square cm. Typical 10" subs have a cone area of 330 square cm. Here's the breakdown for typical subs in square cm:

8": 220
10": 330
12": 480
15": 810
18": 1300

Having considered that, two typical 18" subs are only 81% of the cone area of a typical 15" sub. My two 18" subs each have 1340 square CM of cone area, which is equivalent to over eight 10" subs. Since they are pro audio subs, excursion is limited, but they make up in cone area what they lack in excursion, and at the end of the day, you can ask anyone who has heard them; there isn't anything else like it.

Rule #1 when you want accurate, powerful bass is that cone area is king. Driving a lot of power to a single high-excursion sub will not give you the same results as driving that same amount of power to two subs. The only purpose of very high excursion and high powered subs such as the JL W7 and the IDMax is to have the biggest bang in the smallest enclosure size. the IDMax10 has 4" of mechanical excursion and is recommended in a 0.9 cubic foot gross box. They are also useful if you have an unlimited budget and want the best bang for the space you have available.

However, if your budget is not unlimited, and you aren't extremely concerned with space, then two 10" IDQ drivers will always win over a single 10" IDMax or 12" IDMax. Always.

 

[CyclonicWrath]

It's always a function of cone area. Everything is a function of cone area. Some manufacturers list it as piston area. When you have the option, you always want more cone area over more excursion. This is because the higher cone area will offer better efficiency and typically lower distortion. This is why I run two 18" subs. Let me outline it for you.

The highest cone area 10" sub I know of is the Image Dynamics IDQ10 V3. This has a cone area of 399 square cm. Typical 10" subs have a cone area of 330 square cm. Here's the breakdown for typical subs in square cm:

8": 220
10": 330
12": 480
15": 810
18": 1300

Having considered that, two typical 18" subs are only 81% of the cone area of a typical 15" sub. My two 18" subs each have 1340 square CM of cone area, which is equivalent to over eight 10" subs. Since they are pro audio subs, excursion is limited, but they make up in cone area what they lack in excursion, and at the end of the day, you can ask anyone who has heard them; there isn't anything else like it.

Rule #1 when you want accurate, powerful bass is that cone area is king. Driving a lot of power to a single high-excursion sub will not give you the same results as driving that same amount of power to two subs. The only purpose of very high excursion and high powered subs such as the JL W7 and the IDMax is to have the biggest bang in the smallest enclosure size. the IDMax10 has 4" of mechanical excursion and is recommended in a 0.9 cubic foot gross box. They are also useful if you have an unlimited budget and want the best bang for the space you have available.

However, if your budget is not unlimited, and you aren't extremely concerned with space, then two 10" IDQ drivers will always win over a single 10" IDMax or 12" IDMax. Always.

But is not having an 18" give you different frequencies? Then the 10 will hit

 

[XtremeRevolution]

I think I'm going to do something different with my stereo. Not till after I visit the ENT specialist and find out why my ears are already messed haha. I want to get rid of my 15" Clarion and get maybe 2-3 10's. I mean the 15 pounds hard and all have no complaints, but for the music I listen to, I almost feel like its to big to move at the speed of the music. I listen to a lot of hardcore music (like August burn red If anyone knows who they are lol) and the double bass in a lot of the songs is like a frigin gun


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There's no such thing as too big to move at the speed of music. It's all a matter of motor strength and moving mass. The cone, voice coil, former, and dust cap are all factored into the moving mass calculation. High SPL subs that are designed to be abused tend to have excessively thick wiring in the voice coil, and excessively thick piston material that all drive up the weight. More weight without more motor strength results in a crappy sounding sub.

A typical 12" sub will have a moving mass of 200-240g. A great 12" sub like the IDQ12 will have a moving mass of 160g. A high SPL 12" sub like an Orion HCCA will have a moving mass of 386 grams. I can assure you the motor is not big enough to compensate for such a heavy moving mass, but it will dissipate lots of heat for high SPL applications.

Now to put that into perspective, one of my 18" subs has as much cone area as 2.8 12" subs. Just contemplate that for a second. One of my 18" subs has as much cone area as nearly 3 12" subs. If you placed 3 12" subs side by side and one of my 18" subs and had them all produce a specific level of excursion, they would produce sound at almost exactly the same volume due to the cone area.

Now put this into perspective. Each one of my 18" subs has a moving mass of 198g. Considering they have the same cone area as a typical 12" sub, yet are nearly 3 times as large in cone area with a massive motor strength, you can start to get a picture of why peoples' jaws drop when they hear them.

The size of the sub is entirely irrelevant when it comes to sound quality.

 

[XtremeRevolution]

But is not having an 18" give you different frequencies? Then the 10 will hit

See my next post after yours. It's all a function of cone areas. In fact, being a pro audio sub, my 18" will have a wider frequency range than any subwoofer you've probably ever heard. It is actually usable up to 1000Hz due to the massive motor strength and extremely low cone area. That ratio produces a very delicate sound, while the fact that it's an 18" sub makes it very loud as well.

This is a reason why the Image Dynamics IDQ 15" V2 sub (the old one made in 2002) is so extremely rare and hard to find. It is one of those low moving mass, high motor strength SQ subs.

 

[H3LLON3ARTH]

UPDATE


Sorry for the mess in my car lol I cleaned it afterwords.

 

[H3LLON3ARTH]

 

[H3LLON3ARTH]

These songs hit hard if anyone wants to download it.

 

[EcoDave]

What is your Sub box tuned to?

This one hits hard too

And this one is suppose to go real low, I heard it goes down to 20 hz, maybe even lower...