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Something doesn't seem right and isn't that a new sub? I don't think you should be cranking it that hard but too late now.... Anyways I'm not sure if its your camera but looks like you have something hooked up wrong by that wobble... Maybe im just tripping... And holy **** bye bye trunk space lol
It doesn't sound right because the sub is being pushed past what it can safely do. Then again, it is a camera recording, so it is hard to tell.
That mechanical noise definitely sounds like the sub is bottoming out though.

Cone wobble is also generally indicative of a clipped signal.


OP- I love the build, but I cringe watching subs be destroyed like that. You are expecting to much from the sub. Back it down, or you will keep blowing them.
 

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It doesn't sound right because the sub is being pushed past what it can safely do. Then again, it is a camera recording, so it is hard to tell.
That mechanical noise definitely sounds like the sub is bottoming out though.

Cone wobble is also generally indicative of a clipped signal.


OP- I love the build, but I cringe watching subs be destroyed like that. You are expecting to much from the sub. Back it down, or you will keep blowing them.
Hard to tell with a camera microphone on anything. With the amount of SPL that sub is producing, how likely is it that you'd actually hear it bottoming out unless it was really bad?

The cone either goes forward or backward, not side to side. The suspension and the surround are what force it to stay in this alignment. The reason why you see a "wobble" in that video is because of the way digital cameras scan video frames. You will see this on many youtube videos of subwoofer excursion.

He sent me a picture of the sub. Despite being broken in slowly, the spider/suspension is torn. I've never seen that happen before, ever. The sub is supposed to have woven tinsel leads, and somehow, the tinsels ripped out of the suspension. It became very clear to me that the tinsel leads were not long enough for the excursion capability of this subwoofer, and that's likely what caused his failure.



Open the image full size and zoom in.
 

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Like I said, it is hard to tell on a camera recording.
However that really does sound like its bottoming out pretty bad. Like you said, its gotta be bad if you can hear it over the SPL being produced.

Also, you are correct, as far as recording wobble, it is the camera.
No speaker has a 100% linear throw though. The surround and suspension will do their best, but if played hard enough with a dirty signal, they can wobble and get thrown out of whack.

Regarding the tinsel leads, it is either a poorly designed sub, or it was simply pushed to hard.
I'm leaning towards the latter.

Here's a neat video showing the camera wobble effect
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=vWQ6IldsrZ8
 

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Yuck for chuck !
 

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Yeah I'd say its def bottoming out, that didn't sound good at all, and yeah I didn't realize the camera would make it look like its wobbling... But that bottoming out would explain why the sub broke not because the connections where too short because the sub was pushed to far, turn it back a bit man... Is that also a ported box?... Did you have to build that in the trunk btw
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
I send it them Monday depending on how much it will cost to ship it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
And that amp is **** near dead on with RMS power to what the Manufacture claims
 

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So what are claiming ? Factory defects , or owner abuse .
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
So what are claiming ? Factory defects , or owner abuse .
i didnt have the amp half way up so if its owner abuse the speaker is not 1000 watt RMS.
 

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Is there really a following for excursion sounding wobbling subs ?
WoW ..
 

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If you do not know why would you ? WOW .
 

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you need to research what a gain does on an amp .
it is NOT a volume control.
it is simply there for integration with the source signal. it is simply a sensitivity control.
the fact that it was only half way up means nothing.

also, speakers will blow for two reasons.
mechanical
thermal

from what I saw I'm the video, you were clearly exceeding the mechanical abilities of the sub. I believe it is a 1000watt sub. but that doesn't mean anything.

what is the box tuned to?
do you have a sub sonic filter?
 

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Yeah I'd say its def bottoming out, that didn't sound good at all, and yeah I didn't realize the camera would make it look like its wobbling... But that bottoming out would explain why the sub broke not because the connections where too short because the sub was pushed to far, turn it back a bit man... Is that also a ported box?... Did you have to build that in the trunk btw
I built the box, and he had it pulled forward for the video.

you need to research what a gain does on an amp .
it is NOT a volume control.
it is simply there for integration with the source signal. it is simply a sensitivity control.
the fact that it was only half way up means nothing.

also, speakers will blow for two reasons.
mechanical
thermal

from what I saw I'm the video, you were clearly exceeding the mechanical abilities of the sub. I believe it is a 1000watt sub. but that doesn't mean anything.

what is the box tuned to?
do you have a sub sonic filter?
Box is tuned to high 20s. I believe 29hz. 2 pounds of fiberglass inside.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
from what I saw I'm the video, you were clearly exceeding the mechanical abilities of the sub. I believe it is a 1000watt sub. but that doesn't mean anything.
How does 1000 watt RMS subwoofer Not mean anything thats what the company set as it power rating at all times.
 

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How does 1000 watt RMS subwoofer Not mean anything thats what the company set as it power rating at all times.
He means if your amp isn't set right it will still wreck you sub! ... I run a 1200rms amp at 2 ohms on 2 clarion 400w rms subs that's 400watts rms too much but I have no problems because its set right is all he's saying.. And my windows flex without that popping sounds from the sub, I'm going to take a video of mine to see if its just a video thing but I'm pretty sure you need to set back the gain and boost.. Just because the sub and amp are matched don't mean any dial should be at its max or the setting on your deck, I'm not sure if you have done this but turn everything down on your amp and just run half way up on your decks bass for subwoofer and crank it up to where you would listen to it maxed or just a bit further and tune your amp/sub accordingly, if you hear anything weird turn it back
 

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How does 1000 watt RMS subwoofer Not mean anything thats what the company set as it power rating at all times.
1000W is the thermal power handling of the sub. Take note, that means it's the amount of heat the sub can dissipate before voice coil damage occurs. You can bottom out a sub with far less than 1000W given the right conditions. This is one reason why the amp needs the subsonic/high pass filter set with vented enclosures.

It is never a bad thing to overpower a sub. Your amp can produce 2100W RMS, and I specifically recommended it so it would be difficult to clip the sub with a thermal overload. You would bottom out the sub before you exceeded its thermal limits, and that's a lot easier to tune around because you can actually hear a sub bottoming out, whereas you can only smell a voice coil burning, and by that point it's too late.

I have very rarely seen people blow good subs with too much unclipped power. It's always a function of the sub bottoming out that damages them at that point, but like I said, it's something you can hear. Here's how a sub sounds when it's bottoming out.


Chris, only you would be able to tell us if the sub was indeed bottoming out. Did you hear that sound when you opened the trunk? If you did, and you kept turning it up louder, then you simply pushed the sub way too far.
 

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well like I was saying, you can blow a sub two ways. thermal overload, or mechanical overload.
1000rms is referring to the thermal handling of the sub.

you fall into the mechanical category. the thermal rating is just irrelevant in this case.

even if it did fall into the thermal category, as stated above, you can still damage your sub if set up improperly.

my subs are 1000continuous as well. even on 700continuous, they are limited mechanically in my enclosure.

( the enclosure plays a large role in this as well. which is why I was asking about tuning frequency etc)
take note that when xtreme says to over power you would rarely actually be doing so.
if you were to throw a 2100watt amp on your sub, this doesn't mean you feed it 2100watts. having an amplifier that can do it though greatly reduces the chances of feeding your sub a clipped signal. which is where the thermal rating comes into play.

a lot of people have ridiculous amounts of power on their front stage thinking ' I'm feeding my woofers 500watts' etc. just because an amp can make the power doesn't mean the speakers receive it. but that is a whole other topic lol
 
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